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351C buildup advice

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Hi all.

Now that I've found a front suspension setup that will let me remove the shock towers, I've decided to go ahead and build up the 351C-2V that's sitting in my garage after all. So, tell me if this sounds like a good combo:

I'll re-use the stock crank, but it needs to be turned and polished. I'll have the same done with the stock heads, as well as some port work, valve job, etc...

Summit Rebuild Kit: Speed Pro Forged Pistons, Speed Pro Rings, main, cam, and rod bearings, a high volume oil pump, a gasket set, and freeze plugs.

I was thinking something in the order of a Victor Intake, 750 double pumper, and a fairly aggressive cam. I'm open to opinions on this side of things.

I'm not really certain about the rest of things, I'm just trying to establish a baseline first.


'65 Coupe ***Total Project***
Current Stats: Dead 200 six, C4, surface rust, hole in the floorpan :)

Plans: Tremec TKO, 351C, MII front suspension, no shock towers :)
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Hi., well the carb you are useing is way too much. A Holley 600 is plenty. You are going to drowned your motor with that carb. I have a Pantera with a 351 C and everyone I know runs a 600cfm carb, either a Edelbrock or Holley. A lot of people like the Edlebrock., Your choice. I run a Holley. Good Luck
Where the fun really starts. If I was to do my 351C again (but with 2V heads not the quenched 4V that I have) I'd strongly consider using a mechanical as opposed to hydraulic cam setup, with the other necessary mods I would just love to keep letting my engine wind up past 5500 rpm mark safely. You should consider definately converting the rocker arms to adjustables, either by machining or by the Crane conversion kit (this is great but will limit the final spring pressure you can use on the heads). If I was you I'd also talk to the Cam manufacturers to help guide you to where you want to go. Cam Research (check the back pages of the Mustang mags) are particularly knowledgeable about 351C's. These are great engines, just remember to have it magnifluxed and sonic tested before you start working on it, they have thin cylinder walls by design and you will probably be wanting to over-bore by about .030. The other post about the carb is about right, 750 cfm is better suited to the 4V heads but I ran one on my orignal 2V heads just fine also, but with a K&N filter on top and some porting on those heads combined with a big enough cam could easily justify the 750. Good luck. PS read up on the oiling problems of the 351C, now would be your chance to make some mods and help preserve the engine.

69 Sportsroof, 351C, 4spd toploader, Restomod BOSS 429 clone - the one and only (?) 1969 BOSS 351
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All of that sounds good (well, maybe not the Victor intake) but you need to spend a few buck more on the oiling system. Install the Moroso oil restition kit in the mains, have the crank crossdrilled and chamfer all the oil holes. While not everyone does it, I still like to have the block align bored and have the crank checked for straitness. The reason for all this is the oiling system is not quite what it should dumps too much oil to the top and leaves the crank with not enough oil. This is especially important if you turn any kind of rpm (like what you'd need to turn to use a Victor Jr). And valvetrain...very important on a Cleveland. Use 10 degree locks and keepers and the best valves you can afford. I tried many brands inthe race engines before I went with Ferrera..better quality than Manley Sever-Duty and half the price. If you have to wait longer to put it together while you gather money, do it...You'll end up wasting a bunch when the mains seize or you drop a valve...

Just my $.02

Good Luck

1970 Fastback, 4V 351C, various colors with black interior
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