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What are the best aluminum heads for a 351W?? I would prefer heads where the conversion headers for a 351W into a 65 would work!! Trickflow, Edlebrock??? Thanks!!

65 coupe 302
(building a 351W)
 

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Seems like every thing i see points to trickflow. These are the heads i am going to get for my 351w. good luck.

Don
1965 Convertible, 351W, Tremec, 9", continuous "improvements"
1996 Explorer XLT - daily driver
2000 Taurus - wife's driver
2001 Giant OCR3 - my 2 wheel road warrior for getting in shape
 

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There are a diversity of opinions here on this subject. If you haven't read this article on the subject, it's a good read and a fairly unbiased assessment...

Personally, I've received exemplary service from the Performer RPM's (with 2.02 Intake) on my race car... I bought them as a complete unit in 1995 and have had no maintenance issues or in-service failures to date. I did nothing to them other than install 7/16" studs and Crane roller rockers...

The engine runs a fairly mild SVO A333 cam and 12.5:1 TRW's....along with the usual performance gear, it has consistently run 11.40's @ 118 and, with the carb secondaries locked out, 12.00's @ 112.

I think these heads have the kind of reliability to make them a true OEM replacement but with improved out-of-the-box performance as well as plenty of room for future improvements.

I have also heard good things about AFR and TFS heads here but have no practical experience to share so I'll leave that to others...

Just remember to include the heads as part of a balanced performance package....considering the expense involved in their purchase, building out the rest of the combo to take advantage of their potential is key to cost-effective performance.

BTW...the last W I built with these heads cost around 4000.00 exclusive of the block and crank cores...

Happy head hunting *G*

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 

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"The engine runs ...., it has consistently run 11.40's @ 118 and, with the carb secondaries locked out, 12.00's @ 112". Secondaries locked out? Do you mean secondaries inoperative? Then is that all there is with 4-barrels? Two-barrelled you are running 12.00, ok .6 is a big reduction, but still 12.00s with 2-barrel. Are we being fooled then with all this 4-barrel is the "must-do" first or second modification?

Oh yeah, also made it to tire-kicker status with this post. Now I demand some respect from you beginners and newbies.

Edited: Oops, are beginners ranking higher than tire-kickers?

Door handle first when cornering<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by Arto65FB on 03/15/01 06:39 AM (server time).</FONT></P>
 

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Hey, congratulations....I knew you had some tire kickin' in ya..*G*

Yeah, it's interesting what a dial-a-pod and some ET clocks can tell a person about performance...

I didn't want to go into great detail in the post but I found the greatest difference in performance was from 330 ft on....I'm in high gear by that point.

Remember though, .6 and 6 mph is a lot in a race car.....you'll find out when your running low 12's how much it takes to get the car into the mid 11's...

With a car that has run 10's during it's lifetime (PO had a really nice 289 in it), running the numbers I do isn't really pushing the car at all....12.00's feel like my street car after the 60ft clocks...

Just think about it....if you could run 14.00's instead of 14.60's just by adding a 4bbl, wouldn't that be a great performance increase? Remember, as the car runs quicker, each tenth becomes harder to come by...

It would be interesting to see some of the street guys run the same tests at the track that I have on my car....interesting stuff can sometimes result...

Pat
http://www.jps.net/binay/webdocs/strtmstng002_sml.JPG
 

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With the multitude of heads now offered, it is difficult to make a decision which to go with. You definitely want to stick with heads that have stock intake/exhaust port locations, unless you are building an all out racecar. That leaves out Brodix, Canfield, Blue Thunder, etc, but they are really expensive anyway.

I like all the heads - Edelbrock (especially the Victors!), AFR and TFS. I chose the TFS Twisted Wedge for several reasons, least of which when I bought them they were very reasonably priced assembled from Summit. I have since ported and polished (bowl porting beneath the valves, intake and exhaust port smoothing, combustion chamber polishing). According to Mark Jeffrey at Coast High Performance, I picked up another 30 hp from those mods. Anyway, ask around - you will get varying opinions. Like I said earlier, for a street engine, you really can't go wrong with any of the offerings. With the design and weight savings, you are sure to do well.....

http://www.bossman-motorsports.com/65stang/eng4.jpg

randy

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