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67 Mustang 351w
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I have a 67 mustang with a 351w (internals unknown), iron heads, Edelbrock Torker 2 intake, Holley 750 double pumper, mild cam, 1 5/8” Hooker long tubes, 2 1/2” exhaust, C4 tranny with 2800 stall, and 4.11 gears. The car runs and sounds great, but I know it has waaaayyy more potential (runs a 13.0 with a slow 2.0 60’ because my carb is too big). I recently purchased the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI, but I will not be installing it until I get new heads. I am leaning toward AFR 205’s, but am having a hard time pulling the trigger on them because of the price. I know...But once, cry once, right? Aside from other recommendations on heads, I have a set of 1 3/4” long tubes that MAY fit. Will the larger headers and 3” exhaust be necessary after installing the new heads, or should I be fine with what I have? I also plan to take advantage of more valve lift with new heads by installing a more radical cam. FYI, this is a weekend cruiser with the occasional trip to the drag strip. Any recommendations you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I think your 750 cfm double pumper is much too big for your engine, especially with stock heads and an unknown size cam. I also think the AFR 205cc heads would be overkill on an unknown engine. For comparison, I've got a 351w that's bored .030 over with Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 185cc heads, Edelbrock Air Gap intake, Holley 650 Ultra Double Pumper and I'm at well over 400hp. I'd have to look at the specs on my cam card but it's a healthy cam. Lots of unknowns for your engine though. I'd pull it, strip it down and see exactly what you've got and go from there first. Either that or put a more moderate sized cam in the car if it's pretty mild as is. Did the previous owner buy/install the engine? If so, might be worth trying to reach out to them and see if they have any idea what's been done to the engine before you go digging into it. I'd also look at a cheaper, smaller sized head like I've linked below. For $600 a piece and fully assembled, these would be pretty hard to beat for the price and being AFR brand, imo.

 

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Heads.... 205's will be fine if you have the cam to support them... and if you're going TBI I'd dump the TorkerII for a VictorJr.
 

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67 Mustang 351w
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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I think your 750 cfm double pumper is much too big for your engine, especially with stock heads and an unknown size cam. I also think the AFR 205cc heads would be overkill on an unknown engine. For comparison, I've got a 351w that's bored .030 over with Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 185cc heads, Edelbrock Air Gap intake, Holley 650 Ultra Double Pumper and I'm at well over 400hp. I'd have to look at the specs on my cam card but it's a healthy cam. Lots of unknowns for your engine though. I'd pull it, strip it down and see exactly what you've got and go from there first. Either that or put a more moderate sized cam in the car if it's pretty mild as is. Did the previous owner buy/install the engine? If so, might be worth trying to reach out to them and see if they have any idea what's been done to the engine before you go digging into it. I'd also look at a cheaper, smaller sized head like I've linked below. For $600 a piece and fully assembled, these would be pretty hard to beat for the price and being AFR brand, imo.

My mom and stepdad bought the car from the guy who had the engine built, and I eventually bought it from them. He told them he had $7K in the motor, but that’s all I know. I’m still confused as to why you would spend that much on a motor just to choke it down with factory iron heads.
 

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My mom and stepdad bought the car from the guy who had the engine built, and I eventually bought it from them. He told them he had $7K in the motor, but that’s all I know. I’m still confused as to why you would spend that much on a motor just to choke it down with factory iron heads.
$7k? Haha yeah right... he either made that up or got taken for more than double what it costs to rebuild a motor. I can't imagine anyone that knows even a little bit about cars would spend $7k on a stock stroke 351w with cast iron heads and not be able to give you info on the internals, cam specs or at least where he bought the motor from. It sounds like he's talking out of his backside as you can buy a 351w based stroker motor with 500hp+ for $7k. Have you ever had the car dyno tested to see what kind of power she is putting out? If you truly have no information on the internals, cam and so on that might be a good place to start and see what kind of power you're putting out, what your torque curve looks like and will give you a decent guess as to what kind of cam is installed.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
$7k? Haha yeah right... he either made that up or got taken for more than double what it costs to rebuild a motor. I can't imagine anyone that knows even a little bit about cars would spend $7k on a stock stroke 351w with cast iron heads and not be able to give you info on the internals, cam specs and so on. Or at least where they bought the motor from and so on. It sounds like he's talking out of his backside as you can buy a 351w based stroker motor with 500hp+ for $7k. Have you ever had the car dyno tested to see what kind of power she is putting out?
No; I didn’t even care to know with the iron heads. Once I get the car back together, it will be heading to the local performance shop to go on the dyno and get a custom tune.

Anyone have any advice on the exhaust question that I asked about in the original post? Do I need to go bigger, or will I be fine with what’s on there now?
 

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No; I didn’t even care to know with the iron heads. Once I get the car back together, it will be heading to the local performance shop to go on the dyno and get a custom tune.

Anyone have any advice on the exhaust question that I asked about in the original post? Do I need to go bigger, or will I be fine with what’s on there now?
You'll be fine with what you have in terms of the exhaust. I've only got 2.5" exhaust on my car with JBA mid length swap headers that are only 1 5/8" primaries with 2.5" collectors.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Day 1: Spent a couple of hours getting the motor ready to be pulled. FYI this will be the first time I’ve ever pulled a motor out of a vehicle.
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Discussion Starter #10
Day 2: Woke up feeling like crap so I went and got tested for Covid. Sure enough, I have it. That didn’t stop me from pulling the motor out today though. I rednecked it with my tractor.
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I can tell you, I took an edelbrock performer RPM motor heads cam that had a torker II and replaced the torker with a performer RPM manifold. Everyone I met that knew anything about small blocks told me to get rid of the manifold, so I did. The difference was staggering. Across the RPM range the RPM Manifold was an amazing improvement. The best thing you can do with a torker II is use it for a planter, put a nice orchid in it...

Be clear how you are going to use the motor and design the heads cam manifold carb and exhaust as a system to do what you will use the car for most. 750 may be fine for drag racing or a dyno pull, but for anything else, throttle response will suffer.

BTW, do not put that motor back in with a rubber hose from the fuel pump to the motor. Its a fire hazard and you wont be happy with the insurance payoff :mad::mad: Use metal...
 

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AFR205 are the perfect head for a mild 351w. I regretfully bought them for a more much more radical engine and i wish i would have gotten the the afr220's or a cleveland style head. The 205 are not a race head like people make them out too be, they are a great head and value for the money. They can be at home on top of a mild engine and sustain on a more serious build. To compare the 185 vs 205.. at .600 lift the 205 is INT308/EXH230 CFM and the 185 is INT287/EXH215 cfm. they are not that radically apart. The new AFR195 competition head is just short of matching the 205 head. The 205 head comes with better hard parts that allows room for growth without needing to upgrade valvetrain parts in the future. just my opinion view it how you want lol
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I can tell you, I took an edelbrock performer RPM motor heads cam that had a torker II and replaced the torker with a performer RPM manifold. Everyone I met that knew anything about small blocks told me to get rid of the manifold, so I did. The difference was staggering. Across the RPM range the RPM Manifold was an amazing improvement. The best thing you can do with a torker II is use it for a planter, put a nice orchid in it...

Be clear how you are going to use the motor and design the heads cam manifold carb and exhaust as a system to do what you will use the car for most. 750 may be fine for drag racing or a dyno pull, but for anything else, throttle response will suffer.

BTW, do not put that motor back in with a rubber hose from the fuel pump to the motor. Its a fire hazard and you wont be happy with the insurance payoff :mad::mad: Use metal...
FYI, I bought this car off my mom and stepdad. Everything on it is what they, or the previous owners put on it. The transmission cooler lines are rubber hose as well. There were tons of shortcuts taken on putting this together that I would have never done. This is one of the main reasons I pulled the motor, so I can put everything back together the RIGHT way. I do know that the Torker 2 was only installed to allow for hood clearance. It is being replaced with the manifold that came with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI I bought, and I have read that it is the Victor Jr. intake manifold.
 

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FYI, I bought this car off my mom and stepdad. Everything on it is what they, or the previous owners put on it. The transmission cooler lines are rubber hose as well. There were tons of shortcuts taken on putting this together that I would have never done. This is one of the main reasons I pulled the motor, so I can put everything back together the RIGHT way. I do know that the Torker 2 was only installed to allow for hood clearance. It is being replaced with the manifold that came with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI I bought, and I have read that it is the Victor Jr. intake manifold.
Just side note, your vic jr intake should be port matched to whatever heads you get. Edelbrock tapers the port flanges down at the end of the runner. It is not drastic how much material needs to be removed and its a fairly simple task. At very least check to see how the ports align, it might not need much or any, but it can make a difference in driveability throttle response and power production. Many people simply toss on a intake and expect it to work perfect and its one reason why single plane intakes have a bad rep for drivability. They are not supposed to be used right out of the box. Edelbrock states this in the installation instructions on the Jr. & super vic manifolds.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Day 3: Got the motor pulled apart. Figured out why I was having cooling issues. 2 of the ports were completely blocked off, the other 2 looked like the 2nd pic. Guess I probably didn’t need that new 24” radiator with dual fans I bought after all. Oh well, it’s getting installed anyway.
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Rocker arms are 1.6 ratio Comp Cams.
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Cam specs are in the images below. Connecting rods and crank are stock.

View attachment 775895
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Can anyone ID these pistons? I have no intentions of disassembling the bottom end since it has less than 1K miles on it since it was rebuilt.
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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, I think I’ve figured out my combo:

-AFR 205 heads with 72cc combustion chambers
-Comp Cams XE284H
-Victor Jr. intake included with the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI kit
-Existing 1.6 ratio rocker arms
-Existing 1 5/8” long tube headers with 2 1/2” collectors
-Existing 4.11 gears
-Existing 2800 stall

Calculators show I would be right around 10.0:1 compression. Keep in mind, this is my first time doing any type of engine work on anything other than motorcycles or atvs, so be easy on me. Will this be a decent combo to get me upwards of 400HP? Anything I should change?
 

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The rod in that last photo does not look happy . . . . .

I would recommend dropping the pan to check out and verify the bearing is OK. Best case is that the appearance is from R&R'ing the wrist pin, BUT . . . . .
 

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stock type pistons. your block was bore .030" over size. ARP wave lock rod bolts are a must.
 
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