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Day 3: Got the motor pulled apart. Figured out why I was having cooling issues. 2 of the ports were completely blocked off, the other 2 looked like the 2nd pic. Guess I probably didn’t need that new 24” radiator with dual fans I bought after all. Oh well, it’s getting installed anyway. View attachment 775891
If those are the rear passages that's what they'll look like as they're blocked off by the gasket. "Rear" passages only exist so that the heads can be used on either side. Now, the "crud" looks to be the result of mineral deposits in the coolant and I'd strongly recommend those heads be "tanked". If you have the engine on a stand, I'd pull the block drains, then reinstall, plug the inlets in the front of the block (use a piece of scrap metal or plastic with some RTV to seal) and fill the water jackets with solution of citric acid boiler cleaner and let it "work" then pull the block drains and flush everything. Some Vaseline on top of the block and plastic sheeting or trash bag material to protect the cylinders would be a good idea. Repeat until the "crap" is gone.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Is there something I can spray on all the parts and then cover with a garbage bag to keep everything from rusting until I get it back assembled?
 

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Not sure if the pistons you have will handle the bigger valves the 205 heads or on most aftermarket heads. Had a customer that changed combo and have new in box 205 AFR heads if you are looking for a deal, message me.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Not sure if the pistons you have will handle the bigger valves the 205 heads or on most aftermarket heads. Had a customer that changed combo and have new in box 205 AFR heads if you are looking for a deal, message me.
This was a huge oversight on my part. As mentioned previously, I am a newbie at this stuff. I did not plan on having to replace pistons to bolt on new heads. The only aftermarket heads I can find with the same size valves as factory are Edelbrocks, but they only come with 170cc intake runners. I’m going to just call AFR and see what options I have, if any.
 

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The iron heads on your engine are NOT stock. They have been ported for sure by the looks of the exhaust ports. Tobias is one smart guy and is well "hooked up " to help you with parts. The Torker II manifold is a loser. Air gap or Vic Jr will be a big boost. 750DP is NOT too much carb ,it's the manifold is holding it back. Your 60"s shoult be in the 1.7-1.8 range along with 12.5 ETs. The cast pistons will be fine BUT as Tobias wisely said the valve pockets may not be wide enough for the larger valves. Depth should be OK. "I" recommend just replacing the rod NUTs with ARPs . The bolts get blamed but it is ACTUALLY the rod nut that is too soft and fails first. Use an extra capacity oil pan , not a HV pump , the standard pump is as big as a HV 302 pump and is plenty.
Randy
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well I called AFR, and unfortunately, the only heads they have that will work with those pistons are there 165cc heads. I’m not doing that. Do I have any options besides replacing the pistons at this point? Is notching used pistons an option?
 

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Not an expert, but would the valve angle and smaller chamber sizes of TFS heads allow for the needed clearance & compression ?
 

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There is a lot of variables involved with valve to piston clearance. in reality all you need to do is mock up the engine, you do need to put a soft spring or a (checker spring) in the head.. put some putty on the piston and slowly rotate the engine. after a cycle remove the head and see what the marks in the putty look like. If you are not using a really radical cam then you shouldnt have to take much material off the piston. it wont be enough weight to hurt the engine balance either. ive never seen a piston notch clearance be that drastic. in my opinion you are better off using a big head and smaller cam. IF you only end up needing radial clearencing for the big valve ( which will most likely the case) then all you do is widen out the existing relief. can be done with a dremel, they also make a notching tool that is shaped like a valve, that actually goes in your head in place of a valve and you attach a drill to the top side and gently apply pressure cutting out the relief. this is the easiest way. just some options for ya
 

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Discussion Starter #32 (Edited)
Now that i've seen the inside of the motor, I realize the previous owner that said he spent $7K on the rebuild was full of s*** (like someone mentioned previously). I now question whether this was freshly rebuilt as well, so i'm starting to lean toward just buying new pistons. Anyone want to give me a recommendation on which pistons/rings to get? I don't want to buy the cheapest, but not sure I need to drop the cash on forged either. I want to stay with flat-top to keep compression at a minimum of 10:1. Thank you all for your input up to this point, and for being patient with an engine newb like me. You guys rock!
 

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They look like cast pistons so maybe not worth fly cutting for bigger valves. I will be honest with you as someone who deals with many customers. Think about your final goals before you spend twice, if you switch pistons, you will have to tear the engine apart, looks like they used stock rods so the pistons will have to be pressed off, assembly balanced and likely a minimum hone(i would see the condition of the bores). Not trying to get you down but I just had someone buy an “all forged 306” and it was a stock cast crank, stock rods, good forged pistons but they had gouges and bearings that were badly worn. Can’t gwt a hold of the seller and is going to have to pay again to get it done right.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
I am dropping the engine block off at my local engine shop as soon as i'm done with my 10 day quarantine. I spoke with the owner today, and he said they should be able to install new pistons, and do any necessary honing/balancing for around $1k. Hopefully they don't find any other unexpected parts and or machining that needs to be done. This project gets more expensive by the day.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Just got off the phone with AFR, and gave them all the specs on my combo, and they recommended their 185cc heads. So, here goes:

'67 Mustang Coupe
'69 351w bored .30 over, stock stroke 10:1
Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 EFI (Victor Jr. Intake)
AFR 185 Renegade Heads
Comp XE284H Cam
1 5/8" Hooker Longtube Headers
2 1/2" Exhaust
4.11 gears
C4 Transmission w/2800 stall

Anything you would change? What kind of HP should I expect from this combo?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Wondering why you're going with such a big rear gear. Are you going to be drag racing?
It's already in the car. This is just a weekend cruiser with occasional trips to the track.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Pistons and rings finally showed up today. Dropping them off with my engine builder tomorrow. Those valve reliefs are WAY deeper than the pistons I pulled out!
779332
 

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