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Discussion Starter #1
Thanx for all the info regarding the AOD,,now here's another one.
Getting ready to go look for a 351W for my 67FB
I read that the 69-mid 70 is the preffered one to get,
What about the newer ones? Is there a difference between the newer and the older ones? is the deck height the same?
Are the newer ones ready to run roller cam? from what year in that case? What is the difference between 6 and 8 intake bolts? Any motor one should avoid? thank you again this is the PREMIUM site!!!!!
 

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The older blocks (69-70) had a lower deck by approx. .020" but I doubt if the older blocks are much stronger than the later ones... I prefer an 80 up block because of the better one-piece rear main seal, you have to drill and tap for equilizer bracket pivot.
The only 351W that came with a roller cam was the Lightning pickup (as far as I know). Two types of roller retrofit kits out there..

Early heads (69-72) had four extra bolts... These heads are slightly better than later heads in stock form, still need to have the thermactor "bump" ground out, machined for screw-in rocker studs and guideplates. These heads have slightly larger valves/intake ports. Later 351W heads are identical to 302 heads.
 

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Tony, Ill be reading the responses here as well, Ive read before that 69-73 were different because they had thicker walls, and also to look out for "M" code 351's because they are a de-stroked 400 truck engine rather than a stroked 302...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm thinking approx. 350-400 hp street motor,nothing really fancy..maybe I'm overconfident that a 400hp will be streetable,,I dont know very much about small blocks and their potential as I always been working with Mopar big blocks where 400hp is stock more or less,,are the figures 350-400hp reasonable in a 351w street motor or will I have problems with cams being too bumpy,,no vaccum etc.?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I forgot to mention I'm going to run either my C4 or a AOD
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That was going to be my next question
below is a paste of a crate motor, is this ok price for the stuff? anyone knows about this place or have done business with them?
http://www.enginefactory.com/

405 HP they claim

• Blue printed machined 351W version Block
• Nodular Cast Iron Crankshaft, deburred
and micro polished
• Shot peened hardened connecting rods with
190,000 psi bolts
• Hyperuetectic 9.5 to 1 Federal Mogul Pistons
• Sealed Power Moly Rings
• Heavy Duty Double Roller Dynagear Timing Set
• Crane Performance hydraulic Camshaft
(Megatorque good idle quality)
• Clevite Heavy Duty Tri-metal Bearings
• Aluminum fast burn Edelbrock RPM heads with
stainless steel valves, hardened valve locks,
chrome moly retainers and HD Valve Springs

• 1.6 Ratio Adjustable Rockers

* Chrome Moly Hardened Pushrods
• Melling High Volume Oil pump
• Complete Fel-pro Gasket set
• New Replacement Harmonic Balancer
• New Flexplate for Automatic Trans.
(SFI Approved Std. add $300)
• New Oil pan, Timing cover and Valve Covers
• Installation Video Included

Optional Upgrades : High Intensity Aluminum True Roller Rockers - $250.00

$3,495.00 for Long Block engine Assembly
 

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Well, I do not see parameters for the Cam, Intake
Info on your heads are below:
Performer RPM Ford

Designed for non-emissions 289, 302, and 351-Windsor Ford engines, these direct bolt-on heads deliver maximum performance in the 1500-6500 rpm range for high performance street. 1.90" intake valves are for use with stock pistons and high-flow 2.02" intake valves are for aftermarket pistons notched for valve clearance. Will not accept rail rockers. Ford 289-302 V8s require Head Bolt Bushings #9680 and either Edelbrock Head Bolt Kit #8552 (7/16") or stock head bolts. See chart for more specs. Read about the powerful Edelbrock small-block Ford heads in the article titled "Hot Heads" published in the March 1996 issue of Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords written by Alan Scrimager.

Performer RPM with 1.90" intake valves
Chamber Size Bare (single) Complete (single)
60cc #60219* #60229*
Performer RPM with 2.02" intake valves
60cc #60249* #60259*
Performer RPM with 2.02" intake valves machined for Fel-Pro® Loc Wire™ gasket
60cc N/A #60269*
POLISHED Performer RPM with 2.02" intake valves
60cc N/A #602519*


Important Notes:
With Ford heads, use Head Bolt Kits #8552 (7/16") or #8553 (1/2").

Test Results with the Edelbrock Performer RPM Total Power Package...
Engine dynamometer testing was done on a Ford 302 c.i.d. engine equipped with an Edelbrock manifold #7121, Performer RPM cam #7122, Performer Series carb #1405 and Performer RPM heads #6025 with 9.5:1 compression and pump gas. The results: 367 hp at 6500 rpm and 340 ft/lbs. of torque at 4500 rpm... proven performance from Edelbrock. See Power Package graph.
 

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Your very best bet would be to spring for a new Ford Racing 351 block and go from there. It's more expensive to do it that way than , say rebuilding up a boneyard donor, but you'll save a few hundred $$ by not having to do a retro roller cam and lifters. Plus you'll have a standard size bore that will be rebuildable in the future ( if there IS a future for the internal combustion engine).

Try GEF Racing in Georgia - they have great prices on Ford Racing stuff and free shipping to your nearest freight terminal.
 

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Manley, no, I wasnt saying that the 351 and 302 were the same, but my understanding was that the base for the 351 was the 302, and it evolved from there - much like the 302 evolved from the 289...
 

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maybe I'm overconfident that a 400hp will be streetable

Not a problem....the engine in the race car is currently at that level and would be very streetable with a slight reduction in the compression ratio. Idles at 900 rpm in gear and pretty smoothly for a racing engine, once warmed up.

It is based on the 69-70 block and is running alloy heads...

Cost is about $10.00/hp.....exclusive of cores.

You could run one of the lighter, later blocks but I'm thinking reliability over 30K or so of use.....reliability is the buzzword for a street performance engine...getting up in the morning and having it work *G* BTW, if you don't know me already, I'm Mr.Conservative .....engine building and politics...

hehehe
 

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I don't think any of the 351W's are "bad". I prefer the 74 and earlier blocks for performance duty because they lost 10 pounds of iron at the end of 74. I have a bare 74, a 78, and an 82 in the garage now. (all 3 have homes-don't ask) It's easy to see the difference in thickness right around the main journals with the naked eye, no measuring necessary. Likely no comparison to a new MotorSport block though.
I consider the newer one-piece rear seal to be convenience, but I've never had a rear seal problem with the older type.
If you want a "mild" performance engine, likely any of them would do just fine. A nice set of TrickFlow heads will wake an 89 just as well as a 69. The same goes for the rest of the performance parts. And then there's stroker kits....
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanx again to all who answered here,,now I have a pretty good idea what I should look for,
Art what is the equilizer bracket pivot?
I talked to the guys at Precision Machine here in Seattle and they had a 71 block with crank and rods for $ 125 so I think that will be my starting point. This forum has kind of become my one stop shopping site,,I bought my car here and now I beg for all the advice here as well. I'll keep you posted when all starts to come together. Plenty of other stuff to fix first. Bead blast inside, outside and under, then paint. Any one but me who would paint lime green with white stripes? I read that the most sold color in 67 was lime green and the most re-painted color 02 is lime green. So I assume that not too many guys like the slime green. Thanx to ya all again
 

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Equalizer bar pivot is a ball that screws into the side of the block that allows an equalizer bar (clutch "Z" bar) to be attached on cars with stick transmissions. Around 1980, the block was no longer drilled and tapped for the pivot, around 1986, the equilizer pivot boss was eliminated.... Something to consider shopping for a 351W block for a stick car.
 
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