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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a used 95 351w and just finished the teardown. Basically, it needs a complete rebuild. The heads are junk, the cylinders are wavy, not much can be saved.
End goal is a torqey (sp?) street motor. 400hp at the crank would be more than adequate. A couple questions:
1. rebuild bottom end myself or just buy a finished short block? I haven't priced machine work since the 90's so which would be cheaper? I'd like a 408, but bottom end budget is about $1000-$1500 total and honestly a 351 would be sufficient.
2. I want to make big power by 2000 rpm and be done by 5500. Would 170cc heads do that or should I step up to 190's? Budget for heads is also about $1000 so they'll be some Pro-Flo-GT4X chinese knock offs on there.
3. Edelbrock rpm or air gap rpm intake. Is there any difference or advantage at my power levels?
I'll get a cam recommendation from Comp because I'll be running a v6 torque converter in my 4r70w and don't know my head flow numbers yet.


Any help, especially on that bottom end stuff
 

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Whether machining your current block is worth it is area dependent.

I know when I had my engine done, I would've been better off buying a shortblock, instead. The reputable shops charge much more than buying a shortblock, esp if you have to buy your core, etc.

Other than that, I clicked on this topic, because I was thinking about something similar and am interested in what others have to say.
 

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You can probably throw another crank in there and get it to 393. I am going to go the 427 stroker route with a low compression build eventually put a power adder or two on it.
 

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Why a V6 torque converter?
Because he's not aware that the V8 and V6 "high stall" 145 K factor stock converters are the same thing? For a higher stall stock style converter he'd actually want one for a Lincoln Mark 8/Mustang 4.6 which is an inch smaller diameter and has a 168 K factor.
Just me talking though.
 

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build

Cop, have the connecting rods you already have reconned, and choose 302 pistons, and buy a 3.85 crank, Have the asembly balanced. That will give you a 393 if you go 030 over. Cheap, easy, and effective. LSG
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cop, have the connecting rods you already have reconned, and choose 302 pistons, and buy a 3.85 crank, Have the asembly balanced. That will give you a 393 if you go 030 over. Cheap, easy, and effective. LSG
I've heard about that. How much is balancing, or is that something I should just do myself with a scale?



The V6 converter came with the V6 transmission. It doesn't feel too loose or tight, so I'll re-use it unless I come across some reason I shouldn't.
 

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Balancing should be around $200. Don't try to do it yourself with a scale. A special machine is required which the crank is installed, weights placed on rod throws and spun then weight taken or added to counter weight on crank. The 393 with Trick Flow 11r 190s and cam will produce plenty of torque. Keep an on going budget for rear tires!
 

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Personally, if I were doing a 351w (not stroking), I'd try to find a good running roller motor out of a truck and not touch the shortblock. The factory 351w shortblock is part of what makes the 351w so good and economical for performance. I'd sell what you have to someone who does want to go 408 and try to find a decent runner.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Personally, if I were doing a 351w (not stroking), I'd try to find a good running roller motor out of a truck and not touch the shortblock. The factory 351w shortblock is part of what makes the 351w so good and economical for performance. I'd sell what you have to someone who does want to go 408 and try to find a decent runner.
That was totally the plan. It was running before I pulled it, but it ran smoothly because it was evenly worn out. Now I've got it tore apart and putting it back together would cost me money in time and gaskets at the least.

I'm currently leaning towards throwing some bearing and rings in it after running one of those dingleberry honing tools on the cylinder walls.
 

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Personally, if I were doing a 351w (not stroking), I'd try to find a good running roller motor out of a truck and not touch the shortblock. The factory 351w shortblock is part of what makes the 351w so good and economical for performance. I'd sell what you have to someone who does want to go 408 and try to find a decent runner.
One of my employees just bought an entire engine from a salvage yard for $200
Rollover with 90k miles...just check around and you may find a cheap deal to use as a base for your project :shrug:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Bump for any advice on heads port volume or intake.
For the intake, I'm leaning towards the Weiand Stealth because it's significantly cheaper than the RPM or RPM air-gap. I expect I won't be much different power wise to justify $100 more in price for the Edelbrock?
 

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Bump for any advice on heads port volume or intake.
For the intake, I'm leaning towards the Weiand Stealth because it's significantly cheaper than the RPM or RPM air-gap. I expect I won't be much different power wise to justify $100 more in price for the Edelbrock?
It should be pretty easy to find a used intake at whatever model you want. I just converted from an RPM to a Torker II just because I went EFI. It's not like an intake can be "worn out" so finding a used RPM or Airgap will meet your needs and save you $$$.
 

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For heads you really can't go wrong with Twisted Wedge. 170's would be fine if you're looking at 2000-5500 rpm. Cam it properly and 190's would meet your goal as well. Don't worry about clearance as the cam that meets your goals will be small enough to not cause ptv issues. Having said that always check to verify clearance after installation.

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I bought a 96 351 out of an F-250 $400. Current build cost is $7500 and I still need a dizzy, carb, and headers. Plus the problem with this aftermarket part don't work with that aftermarket part. If I had it to do over again I'd have bought a crate motor.
 

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I bought a 96 351 out of an F-250 $400. Current build cost is $7500 ...
Holy cow, what are doing to that thing, stroking it? I've got my roller 5.8 short block about done and have like under $350 in it total so far. But then I'm not rebuilding it, just "freshening" it up. I think I spent more on new bearings than I did the actual engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I hope to stay away from $7500. Ive got $300 into buying it, probably $20 into cleaning supplies, $250 for a rebuild kit, and $50 for a hone tool and ring compressor tool.


I'm still leaning towards sending it out to be cleaned and have cam bearings and freeze plugs installed. That will probably be another $300.


I'll buy heads that accept factory valvetrain - $800
Intake - $250
oil pan - $50
dizzy - $50
flexplate - $50
headers - $250
cam - $200


Total should be $2550 for a rebuilt low compression aluminum head 351w. I sold my old spare 302 for 250 and I'm hoping to get at least 500 for the one I have in there so $1800 out of pocket.


I'll be keeping a lookout for used parts to save cash
 

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