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Am thinking of doing this, but wonder if anyone has done it who might share how they dealt with any problems or pitfalls they may have had? thanks
 

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Pretty straightforward swap. If you use a late model auto trans you might need to modify the crossmember. Mine had a funky plate on it.
 

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I'm thinking of doing the same. I sure people are going to say do a search, that is all some can say on this board. A couple of things that I have noticed people talking about w/ a 351 is it is a tight fit. And you have to pay attention to what headers will fit. And some say that changing plugs is a pain in the A**. Most of the ones on here that actually have a 351 in their car say that the plugs are not that hard to change. People will also say that the weight is a draw back but there is not much of a weight difference if you have aluminum heads. Other than the brake and suspension upgrades this is about all I ever see talked about on this topic. It's the same thing over and over.
 

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i have a '65 FB with a 351 stroker and T56 trans. the motor swap is straight forward and can be done. it is a very tight fit though. you can deal with the space considerations one of two ways (assuming you retain the factory shock towers): 1) beat the shock towers with a hammer to make room for the [i used Hedman] headers, or 2) repeatedly heat and massage the headers until they are reworked just enough to fit in the bay and not tap on the shock towers under revs. option 2 is what was done on my car.

in terms of cooling, i run a new factory '68 radiator. it is more than enough to keep the ford racing 351 stroker cool. to install it, the radiator cut-out was resized an extra 1.5" on each side to make room for the slightly larger radiator.

you can check out some pics on my profile. i'd be happy to get you some more.
 

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Haven't done it but one good tip I ran across is to use a Monte' Carlo bar. The reasoning behind this is after years of road abuse, there's a chance that the shock towers are tilting inwards. Installing the bar returns the towers to their original location. You're not going to get tons of room, more like fractions of an inch but any increase is good.
 

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You can find the details right here in the forum.
351 into a 65/66: special headers, note that the cooling outlet is on a different side for a 351 so you'll need a radiator mod. most post swap postings have been about cooling problems.

IF: you are not going to stroke the 351, you might as well build a 347 stroker and hide the cubes behind the smaller engine. Less hassle with almost everything.
 

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As those above have said, It's a straight forward swap. The 351W bolts right in. There are a few areas of concern;

Make sure your cooling system will handle the additional heat load, especially if you're going to increase the HP output of the 351.

Hooker and Hedman make headers for this swap. The Hookers have larger (1 3/4") primary tubes than the Hedmans (1 5/8"), so they are a tighter fit. If you use Hookers, you'll need to use 66 frame mounts for the engine. Also,If you have a manual trans, and use the Hookers, you'll need a later model (70 I think) Z-bar which you'll have to modify a bit.

I didn't have to bend, dent, or massage anything to fit the engine or headers in.

There's about a 60 lb. difference in engine weight. Some or all of the difference will be negated if you use an aluminum intake manifold or heads, and headers.

Plug changes will be more time consuming. It takes me 30-40 minutes to R&R them.

You can see pics by clicking the link below. I'd be happy to answer any questions.
 

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note that the cooling outlet is on a different side for a 351 so you'll need a radiator mod.
Not true. The water inlet on the water pump didn't move to the driver's side until '70, and the 351w came out in '69. Besides, you could bolt an early timing chain cover and water pump onto any 351w block (including late model 5.8L blocks) if you wanted to and keep the inlet on the passenger side.
 
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