Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well, I went to the darkside, and purchased a used, Compcams retrofit roller-cam setup off Fleabay. It was a spur of the moment purchase, so flame away if I was stupid. Here is the link:
/[censored]/ws/[censored]?[censored]&item=2426356259&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOAB:US:6]http://[censored]/[censored]/ws/[censored]?[censored]&item=2426356259&ssPageName=ADME:B:EOAB:US:6

Here is the description, if you don't want to visit Fleabay:

small base circle retrofit hydraulic roller camshaft for pre '94 non-roller Ford blocks. 232/240 duration at .050, 566/576 lift, 112 LSA. 20,000 miles,
I've gone to a solid roller set up. Includes, cam, lifters, dogbones and spider- everything you need to convert your older non-roller block to a hydraulic
roller cam set up.

My question is whether I have any chance of using this cam in the 393 stroker I am building. I have Edelbrock performer heads, which the specs say have a max lift of .575. This cam has a lift of .576. Should I be worried? I will be using 15cc dished pistons, so that should help?

Any other comments or recommendations regarding the roller cam setup is appreciated. For example, is this cam any good for a streetable 393?

thanks,
rk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,176 Posts
You need to call Edelbrock and see, I would imagine it's a valve spring limitation not a head specific issue. A big roller cam like that will need some fairly stout springs , so you might have to upgrade anyway.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,294 Posts
I would go for stiffer springs... if not, they will wear out quickly and break... then you have a problem with dropping a valve into the piston... bye bye heads and motor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Just a little more information. The reason I am doing the 393 is that I spun some bearings while doing extended 7800rpm runs with the old 351. (Yeah, I am stupid) So I think I already have a pretty stout valve train, but my current cam just has .519/.523 lift.

So, do I really need to look for stronger springs?

I am concerned about the spring compression. Unfortunately, I don't know the specs on my current springs and I don't know what ratio (1.6 or 1.7) my rockers are. Any help in that department would be appreciated.

As you can tell, I have made some mistakes in the engine arena. Been doing Stangs for 24 years, but performance engines are new to me. Lessons are costly!!!

rk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,127 Posts
Looks like the OEM Ford stuff I bought at PNP for $15 minus the cam. Do you think the lifters will fit properly in your block (older) even with the small base circle cam? John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,839 Posts
Where did you get your 393? Was it a short block or a rotating assembly? What is the crank?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,618 Posts
Max lift on edelbrock springs is .575, Get a set of comp cams springs for that cam and you'll be ok, Id check for piston contact but you should have no problen there. Its a lot of cam but its got a LCA thats kinda wide so, it'll make more low end than say the same cam with a 108 deg LCA so It may work fine with a 393, especially since youve got a standard and decent gears, at the very least it will sound good lol. IMO it would be too much cam for a 351.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the feedback everyone!!

Since the cam setup did not cost me too much, a new set of springs won't kill my budget. Even if I have to swap to a milder cam, this can still be a pretty good deal. The cam, lifters, and retrofit kit run about $530 on Summit, and I only paid $176.

70_cougar: This is the retrofit kit that contains the dogbones, spider, and retro lifters for the old style 351 block. Am I missing something?

minielson: My 351w was a long block I got from ford-powerperfomance. Its a local shop/guy. I have no complaints about it. Dynoed 300 rwhp @ 5200 rpm, but the dyno shutdown at 160mph, due to the 2.79 gears I had at the time. I think it was a legitimate 400hp 351, since it put out power well above 6000 rpm.
I got the stroker kit from Coast High Performance. Cast crank, forged H-beam rods (5.956"), forged Probe Pistons, bearings and rings.

rk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,999 Posts
If you don't mock up the build by installing the cam, and don't put putty between the piston top to where, when you rotate the engine to actually see if the valve will or will not contact the piston, you might waste an engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,127 Posts
This is what I purchased at a Pick N Pill for $15 http://home.earthlink.net/~jpe17/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/rollerswspider.jpg

I purchased it so if I came across a roller capable block I would have the stuff to install it into. I believe the 1985 to present 5.0 blocks will accept these and the 1994 to present 5.8 blocks also. These parts are nothing more that stock OEM Ford 5.0 stuff. If you use a 86 or later 5.0 cam the lifters will stick too far out of the pre 1985 5.0 block and pre 94 5.8 block. You must use the reduced base circle cam (retrofit cam). I need to research more on the 5.8 blocks because there is some question as to when the deeper lifter bores were cast into them. John
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
70_cougar: Your info has me confused. For true roller blocks, I did not think the spider and dogbones were needed, since the lifter bores are longer. I thought the spider and dogbones were needed to hold the lifters in the shorter bores on the older blocks. You said you are waiting for a roller capable block to use what you have, but I don't think you would need this stuff for a roller block 5.0/5.8. Am I missing something?

You are right, your spider looks like the one I bought and like a comp cams spider.

rk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,127 Posts
Can you imagine what would happen if one of the little rollers got turned sidways? The spider and dog bones keep them from turning sidways. All the 5.0 and 5.8 factory rollers have these. The one I purchased in Oakland CA at a pick N pull was out of a Lincoln. Figured for the price it was a good investment. Now to find something to use it in!

The lifter valley must be drilled to accept the spider. After it is drilled, a pim nut is used to put threads into the floor of the lifter valley. The pim nut is like a rivet with threads inside of it. Notice that the picture shows the 1/4 inch bolts for the spider not in the factory provided holes. A block that is roller ready will have PIPS or bosses that are ready for drilling and tapping if it does not have roller lifters. A non roller block has no provision for this and must be drilled and pim nuts installed. The smaller base circle cam will let the lifters sit further down into the lifter bores and not have the oil pressure losses of having the lifters sticking way out with a normal roller cam when used with a non roller block. Some aftermarket roller lifters use link bars between a set of lifters to prevent them from rotating. Ever get down to Austin area? Planomustang...cool name for Plano resident. Good luck with the roller lifter project, keep us posted. John
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top