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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for a 390 to build up and put into my 67 FB. I found one for 150 bucks, complete to the flywheel (no bellhousing). It's out of a 67 T-Bird. Basically, I want to know if this is a good deal, and what else I will need to put this into my car (originally a 289).

Thanks!
 

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You will need GT390 heads for the motor unless you find headers that will fit. You can go with Edelbrock heads and an intake. The 67 T-bird motor should have the correct motor mount locations.

What type of trans? If a manual you have about $3,000 in trans and shifting mechanism to buy, check the extensive list at Perogies. http://www.perogie.com/4SpeedConversions.htm

If auto, the C4 will not handle the 390 you will need a C6.

$150 for a sound block is not bad depending on how it checks out.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm doing a complete resto, and planning on getting a tremec 5 speed for it. Does the 3k in tranny and shifting mechanisms still apply to this, or is this only if im going with a toploader? I do know that the yard I'm getting it from thinks the block is frozen, but I'm hoping to throw some marvel mystery oil in the plugs and see if it will free up for me. Either way, it's going to be bored as much as possible and set up very nicely.
 

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I've been doing a lot of FE shopping the last few months. From what I've seen, the T-bird special's 315 HP engines have the bolt holes drilled in the heads for the Mustang manifolds or headers.
 

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Make sure you have it sonic checked. FE's are notorious for core shift. They can't always be bored that far out like some other Ford engines. The standard Tremec 5 speed is a marginal transmission for the torque and HP of a built 390, make sure you're looking at a TKO 500 or 600.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yea, I've been surfing for a few hours now and see that I probably need a TKO 600. My main concern is the linkage and connection problems (cost!) that GT SCode mentioned. Originality is not a concern, so date codes are unimportant to me
 

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So, you will need something like this kit...

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/1966/5speed.html#dhp

For modern setup with performance go with a Kit from Dark Horse for about $3,500 this kit uses an aluminum bell housing, I would consider steel. This kit also uses a hydraulic clutch so no need for the z-bar.

1967-1970 MUSTANG AUTO TO TKO600 SWAP
TKO600 transmission with 4615 alloy gears and shafts
billet shifter
hurst handle
5speed knob
Hurst shifter boot
crossmember
Aluminum bell
blockplate
McLeod 3-piece dual-surface 800 series clutch
Ford t/o fork
roller pilot
McLeod steel SFI flywheel
bolts for flywheel
pressure plate
transmission
JMC hydraulic slave kit
transmission mount
slip yoke

You will also need a clutch pedal and your driveline should need to be shortened.

Me, I went with the classic approach and spent about the same but I wanted to go with a toploader. My car was a 390 - 4 speed, but got a 302 and C4 over the years. There are a lot of parts you will need for the classic route as well, and a lot of this stuff is not cheap and the 390 stuff is even harder to come by.

Classic route for a toploader you need the following:

Clutch Pedal
Clutch Pedal Pad
Brake Pedal
Brake Pedal Pad
Pedal Bushings
Pedal Hanger (if required)
Clutch assist spring & bracket
Rod from pedal to equalizer bar
Clutch rod boot at firewall
Clutch equalizer bar (Z bar)
Frame side Z bar bracket
Engine side Z bar bracket
Bracket bushings, C clips and felts
Rod from Z bar to clutch fork
Z bar springs
Bell housing
Engine block plate
Pilot bushing
Resurfaced flywheel
Rebuilt clutch disc
Rebuilt pressure plate
New throw-out bearing
Clutch fork
Clutch fork pivot
Bell housing boot
Bell housing lower cover (if required)
4 speed toploader transmission
4 speed shifter
Upper shift boot and bezel
Backup light switch
Speedometer Cable and Gear
Transmission Yoke (if necessary)
Transmission Cross Member (if necessary)
Transmission Insulator
Driveshaft (if necessary)
 

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I've been doing a lot of FE shopping the last few months. From what I've seen, the T-bird special's 315 HP engines have the bolt holes drilled in the heads for the Mustang manifolds or headers.
Thanks I did not know that!!
 

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Howdy,

I had a similar idea some years ago. But 390 parts have becaome rare over the last 20 years. I came to the clue better use a 351W. You can hide all the modern stuff in a corporate blue colored longblock maybe with a tri-carb intake on top.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not to be forward, but what ever happened to people wishing others luck in what they have decided! I already have the block, I think it was a good idea, and I believe an FE big block mustang would look REALLY cool. In any case, I'm going to get the numbers off the block tomorrow and try to decode them. Can anybody give me direction on where the numbers should be. The block is off a 67 390 4 speed T-bird.
 

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After a while here, you'll learn whose comments to ignore on this site. :naive:

Go for the 390, I love mine and there really is nothing like a big block.
 

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Basically, I want to know if this is a good deal, and what else I will need to put this into my car (originally a 289).
If the block is decent, it's a good deal. Remove the oilpan and check for re-inforced main bearing supports. They'll look like crows feet. If the extra supports aren't there pass on that block.

As for what else you'll need, start with a HUGE sum of money and then go get another huge sum of money! :rofl:

An FE project is a slippery slope. :horror:

Been here doin this!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Just checked the numbers today---Turns out the block is actually from a 66 mercury (heads and intake seems to be off a 64 T-Bird)--So I guess I have no idea what car it came out of..Oh well--I figure it should be a good time...I've never rebuilt an engine--and I decided this one is going to be my first! Is it important for these re-inforced main bearing supports even though I am doing a complete rebuild? thanks for all the help and encouragement!

Josh
 

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The extra webbing makes for a stronger block. If you saw an un-reinforced block next to one that has the reinforcement, you'd see the advantage right away. Be sure to go to fordfe.com for more FE information than you can stuff into any normal brain. These guys have been a tremendous help to me.

What is it that you plan to do with the car when it's done? My end in mind is running 1/8 mile about once a month with some 1/4 mile stuff once in a while. But I also need to drive it to the track (80 miles one way). Choose your cam to your planned usage and then build to that cam. On the desktop dyno my combination will give me 502 bhp at 6000 rpm with 522 ft/lbs at around 3700 rpm. The torque convertor flashes at 3500 so it should be exciting!

Keep us posted on your build.

P.S. FE's like more exhaust duration and lift than whatever is on the intake side.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I'm not much of a racer--I just love fast cars. I feel I'll make a few passes once in awhile--but I'm not a regular at the track. I have been driving a 98 corvette for almost 3 years and I still haven't visited the track yet! I just love the power on tap

Thanks for all the help!

Josh
 
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