Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,210 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is how I upgraded my 65 to a 3G Alternator and still retain full normal use of my dummy lights. In fact I know it works because the Alt light came on when I fried it at start up because the connection was not tightened.

Get a lifetime 3G the first time and it will be the last time you pay for one.

The following is compilation of info I have found out on the internet as well as products I have applied that work perfectly.

I also have the dummy lights working by adding a dummy regulator kit from PA Performance

Lets get started.The reason for the 3G
'66-'85, 60 amp, = 15 amps at idle, peaks at 66 amps.

'85-'93, 75 amp, = 24 amps at idle, peaks at 81 amps.

95 amp alternator= 64 amps at idle, peaks at 122 amps.

The added electronics or piece of mind need the better charging Alt
The first pictures will be from other sources. Later I will post actual real pictures from my car showing visual application.
The 3G I bought was new from Autozone for a 1194-1995 Mustang. Just make sure it is the same mount as your old one and take the old one in with you to help match it. The mount hole spread should be the same, 7 inches if I remember right.

Parts needed:
3G Alt 1994-1995 Mustang (Lifetime) This has a serpentine pulley, you may need the v Pulley wheel. Use an impact wrench to remove and replace while holding wheel with gloved hand.
http://i12.ebayimg.com/07/i/001/35/a2/48bb_1.JPG
This one is 89.00 on Ebay
The Zone will have it for around 180.00 Lifetime (best route, I used 3 on one van I had for 4 years)


The Pa Regulator to keep the dummy lights working, 26.00
3G Upgrade Kit (Retains Stock Wiring) #462802C (462802C)


http://www.paperformance.com/ProdImages/462802CL.jpg

T
his kit is made specifically for the installation of a Ford 3G alternator on any vehicle where the stock alternator was EXTERNALLY regulated

We incorporate a new replacement external regulator box (as shown) to capture the proper circuit and retain the stock wiring harness along with our own 3-wire (3G Series) regulator plug. This kit allows the customer to retain the OEM warning lights and shunt type ammeter **

Installation only requires the customer replace the stock external regulator with the one provided, install the alternator and our 3-wire plug, then make one crimp connection from the original wires at the alternator. All alternator upgrades require a large (#6 or #4 gauge) wire be run from the output of the alternator to the vehicle harness

** direct reading ammeter should not be used or should be bridged due to the significant increase in measured amperage with upgrade alternator


A 4 Gauge power link with fuse. This is from PA and HIGH Quality @ 45.00... I priced and could not make one for less, besides the quality was worth it and it comes with the black cord wrap
http://www.paperformance.com/ProdImages/9902L.jpg

This Diagram was very helpful NOTE: The Green and red wire from the alternator will go to the white wire from the "F" terminal from the old regulator. This white wire dead ends to a female plug under the battery area (the extension plug bundle that used to go from here to the old alternator , will NOT be used. A bullet male plug will plug into the female hole at this location (the hole that is the wire that goes to the "F" terminal on the reg} and go to the new red and green wire for the new alternator. A 3g plug harness WILL come with that conversion regulator from PA to complete this wiring.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/pictures/ScreaminC/3Ginstall.jpg


I will post actual pictures later today. Was this a good start?...punn

1995 Mustang 3G Alternator installed before wiring.
Click on thumb for larger photo.



 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
post saved in my favorites for future reference

very near future!!

thanks!!
Skip
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
Thanks Mark,you rock :hail:
Bookmarked
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,159 Posts
Good info! Do you need the external regulator conversion if you are installing an aftermarket volt guage and you don't care about the idiot light?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
I know this is an old post, but I am thinking of doing this upgrade, however I have some questions.

After reading this website: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire3.shtml
It seems that a remote sensing system is the way to go to ensure you get full alternator output voltage at all your accessories, ECM, coil, etc.

The system detailed in this thread seems to be a 3 wire however, the diagrams show 2 wires going directly to the solenoid input(battery+) terminal. Is one of the 2 wires the voltage sensing? My guess would be the "A" wire or the yellow wire... And if so would it not be better to run that through a fuse into the fuse block? Actually looking at it again, it looks like maybe the black/white(S) wire is the sensing wire adn the yellow is likely the field. It looks basically like this setup turns a 3 wire alternator into a 1 wire setup.

My other question is... Those of you who have done this upgrade as diagramed with both the yellow and output wire going to the solenoid input..Are you getting solid voltage to your accessories? In other words, am I making this too complicated?

Jafo
 

·
Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
Joined
·
21,979 Posts
I think you are overcomplicating it. First, ignore the MAD stuff, it's mostly applicable to GM alternators.
Just look at the revised picture Mark provided just above.
In early versions of that picture the yeallow volt-sensing wire was terminated right at the alternator. This worked but only gave about 13 volts. Later it was realized that if you distanced the connection away from the alternator you could get 14 volts. (I did and redid this myself on a 4G upgrade and got exactly those results). And if you read the MAD article, this agrees with what they are talking about too.
You could run the wire on up to the fuse box, I have done so on a 3G upgrade and it worked just fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Thanks for responding. It also looks like this setup bypasses the stock ammeter which is no big deal to me. The drawing of the charging system i have shows the stock alternator charging through the ammeter. So with this upgrade, If i am not concerned with gen/alt light or factory ammeter, can i abandon the external regulator in place? It looks like I can open it and gut it to keep the plug hooked up. I understand I can buy the part from p/a performance, but if all that thing is doing is running a jumper in a metal box to send a signal to a dummy light, its not worth my 26 bucks.
 

·
Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
Joined
·
21,979 Posts
Yeah the wiring is fairly simple. I put my regulator on the shelf. If I were to keep it I think I would just bypass the wires so it would all be there, just not connected to anything. Clip the wires somewhere up in the harness.
You need a resistor and/or an indicator light somewhere to make the 3G work. I happen to like alternator lights. I don't like ammeters much, especially old ones that only vaguely function. I much prefer voltmeters AND a light. But if you're after "stock-looking" you'll want to find your own way.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Hey guys I know this is kinda old but I am about to do it and have one question. Is there not a ground running from the alternator to chassis? There doesn't appear to be one in your pics so I figured I might as well ask to be sure.
 

·
Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
Joined
·
21,979 Posts
Standard practice is to run some sort of ground wire/strap from the alternator to the engine block. To the chassis would be fine I guess, just to the block tends to be shorter and neater.
You'd think an alternator would be grounded simply by being bolted to the engine, but I have "cured" two non-charging alternators over the years simply by adding a good grounding. Modern Ford engines have different bracketing and mountings and I suspect such ground problems to be VERY rare on them. Though a 3G is modern, my old car and engine setup are still vintage designs. You can bet my 3G's have an added ground, just to be sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Hey guys I know this is kinda old but I am about to do it and have one question. Is there not a ground running from the alternator to chassis? There doesn't appear to be one in your pics so I figured I might as well ask to be sure.
I did end up finishing this and everthing worked out fine. Incedentally I did not need to run any sort of ground wire or strap. You could run into grounding issues IF your alternator or your mounting brackets are painted as that would interfere with the electrical connection between your case and your engine block. My brackets are chrome so i had no issue. I am not sure if powder coating is conductive so that may also cause a problem if your brackets are powder coated. Also order the fused cable linked above, there really is NO way of doing it cheaper, trust me, i spent at least what that thing cost trying to do it on the cheap. Seems to be a recurring theme with me. Spending a dollar to save a dime.

Jafo
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,210 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I agree on the fused cable link. They can become expensive to make and not turn our as good, the one above was a good deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
154 Posts
Well I'm running 0ga wire so I'll have to make my own fused wire.

Gypsy how did you ground the alternator? Just run a wire to the chassis from a bolt on the case or something?
 

·
Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
Joined
·
21,979 Posts
Yeah, a bolt on the case. I'd have to go look becasue I don't remember exactly what.
The harness unplugs and unbolts from late '90's Mustangs and terminates in a ring terminal. The ring is a good fit to the megafuse and bracket I found on a GM car. The junkyard tossed in the harness free with the 3G and charged me a dollar for the Megafuse. Heavy gauge power wire I had left over from a stereo project so I guess my fuse and wire setup cost a dollar altogether.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Can you run the 3G with a v belt without it slipping?
Mine runs fine with the single V belt. Although, my accessories, lights & such only load it to 80 amps or so (measured, not estimated) with everything on. No belt squeal, maintains 14.5 volts at anything above 900 rpm. If I needed the full 130 amps, I'm sure dual belts would be a must.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top