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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
As the title states, I'm looking for I guess a later model master cylinder with a reservoir that I and tech inspectors can view the fluid level from without removing the cap. I never thought I'd be a fan of such an obviously modern looking thing on my car, but it makes since safety wise given how I use the car. I'm currently running a 1967 disc /drum MC for a 67 Mustang with a 1" bore. I'm running a generic CSRP 7" power brake booster for an "automatic" car with modified placement and linkage. The bigger the bore the better, I think. I don't care which side the lines exit the MC but towards the fender apron would be less work. Brakes are going to be the current 2008 Mustang GT fronts adding the older Explorer 11" solid rotor with the shoe style parking brake out back. I run a Wilwood manual proportioning valve under the dash.

783950
 

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I have noticed when I am at the P-N-P there are a lot of Fords with aluminum master cylinders that have the plastic reservoir. And most of them have the bore diameter cast into the aluminum body- 1-1/16" and 1-1/8" are very common.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have noticed when I am at the P-N-P there are a lot of Fords with aluminum master cylinders that have the plastic reservoir. And most of them have the bore diameter cast into the aluminum body- 1-1/16" and 1-1/8" are very common.
Thank you for the reply! My job doesn't give me P-N-P time lately. I guess just for S&Giggles 1-1/8" sounds interesting. Maybe thats a Crown Vic of a certain vintage?
 

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I believe you are going to be looking for a pre-hydroboost MC as you want the bolt holes to be horizontal as opposed to vertical as most hydroboost MC have. Having said that I believe you might look at 94 or 95 mustang MC's.


Or 2000 Rangers

 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Is the whole disc drum thing gone with the common reservoir? A 1" or whatever bore is what it is and it doesn't if it's disc or drum?
 

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Not sure how to answer your question. I do remember when I converted mine to 03/04 F/R Cobra discs with the Vintage Venom kit they recommended the Mustang MC. I've heard of others using the ranger MC because the reservoir wasn't angled. One thing to remember with either of these is they use a metric bubble flare as opposed to a standard double flare on the MC. I found it easiest to get a short section of brake line from NAPA with a bubble flare and nut in the size you need for the MC. Cut it to size then double flard the other end.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Not sure how to answer your question. I do remember when I converted mine to 03/04 F/R Cobra discs with the Vintage Venom kit they recommended the Mustang MC. I've heard of others using the ranger MC because the reservoir wasn't angled. One thing to remember with either of these is they use a metric bubble flare as opposed to a standard double flare on the MC. I found it easiest to get a short section of brake line from NAPA with a bubble flare and nut in the size you need for the MC. Cut it to size then double flard the other end.
Yet another adventure into the unknown. And the short section of bubble fitting is a no-brainer VS buying yet another tool to make one. I don't use much rear brake.
 

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The ‘86-‘88 (something like that) Ford Ranger MC for manual brakes is as close as I can think of, but bore is 15/16. With booster that might be plenty...just have to do the math on your setup.

It uses driver side SAE fittings & should pretty much bolt right up.
 

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I have a 65 Mustang that I daily drive with stock Kelsey hays up front and drums in the rear. I swapped out a leaky fruit jar unit for a tandem Wilwood master cylinder that has clear plastic reservoirs. Reservoirs can be mounted directly the master cylinder or remotely. This setup will work with discs all around. Available in both 1" and 1 1/8 bore. I purchased the 7" powdercoat boost on Ebay.

Wilwood Remote Tandem Master Cylinder Kit, 1 in. Bore [Ball Burnished (Polished) Finish]

783999
 

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Look at a MC for a 2001 Ranger. 1-1/16" bore, left side ports, aluminum with a level plastic reservoir.
 

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As the title states, I'm looking for I guess a later model master cylinder with a reservoir that I and tech inspectors can view the fluid level from without removing the cap. I never thought I'd be a fan of such an obviously modern looking thing on my car, but it makes since safety wise given how I use the car. I'm currently running a 1967 disc /drum MC for a 67 Mustang with a 1" bore. I'm running a generic CSRP 7" power brake booster for an "automatic" car with modified placement and linkage. The bigger the bore the better, I think. I don't care which side the lines exit the MC but towards the fender apron would be less work. Brakes are going to be the current 2008 Mustang GT fronts adding the older Explorer 11" solid rotor with the shoe style parking brake out back. I run a Wilwood manual proportioning valve under the dash.

View attachment 783950

Hello

Why do you feel the need for power assist brakes?

Curious because most feel it's better without it.

Thanx!
 

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You want one from a Winstar van I think its 1998. It mounts level, ranger MCs mount at an angle, so the reservoirs look wonky when mounted level - search this site for photo of a Ranger MC installed in a Mustang or google each MC and select images and you will see photos of what I mean. Winstar also came in a 1" diameter, my search through PnP was 1 1/8 or bigger on Rangers. I got mine at Rock Auto for under $40 bucks. The tricky part is that they are made for a booster, I installed mine with a custom rod adn neglected to think through the fact that it does not capture the rod end. I need to fix this or get rid of it as should the rod come out if somehow I lift the pedal too far, use your imagination. Its pretty deep and my pedal hits the stop before it drops but its not what I would call "right". There is also some pedal drop (3/8" or so) before braking I don't like that my old MC didn't have. Since I left foot brake in Autocross, it doesn't hurt my times but I don't like it and it is definitely NOT air in the system or a gap at the rod/pedal.

Its funny, in NY they never check levels so it was never a problem. I just wanted rid of the steel brick when my MC went bad. I would love to find a Crown Vic aluminum MC like @2nd66 has, I hate the metal bricks the Maverick is, but that won't solve your problem. Oh and one last thing, they are very light which is why I went this route but it looks totally WRONG to have a white plastic reservoir on the firewall of an otherwise old school muscle car engine compartment. I have hated it from the moment I saw it in place.

I have also heard Fox mustang masters work but don't know what they look like or any personal experience.

Edit, now I see the photo of the 89 Ranger above, looks just like that...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for the reply's! Looks like the reservoirs on the Mustangs sit off level a bunch, the 2001 Rangers not as bad with a 1 1/16" bore, and the Windstar sits level with a 1" bore. I wonder how swappable the reservoirs are between similar year Ford MC's? I'm considering buying both and finding out.

Hello

Why do you feel the need for power assist brakes?

Curious because most feel it's better without it.

Thanx!
I have sciatica. Even without the sciatica I'd still want power brakes autocrossing.
 

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I have a 65 Mustang that I daily drive with stock Kelsey hays up front and drums in the rear. I swapped out a leaky fruit jar unit for a tandem Wilwood master cylinder that has clear plastic reservoirs. Reservoirs can be mounted directly the master cylinder or remotely. This setup will work with discs all around. Available in both 1" and 1 1/8 bore. I purchased the 7" powdercoat boost on Ebay.

Wilwood Remote Tandem Master Cylinder Kit, 1 in. Bore [Ball Burnished (Polished) Finish]

View attachment 783999
ohh.. I like that one. I might put that one on the "list of crap to buy"

-Shannon
 

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Thanks for the reply's! Looks like the reservoirs on the Mustangs sit off level a bunch, the 2001 Rangers not as bad with a 1 1/16" bore, and the Windstar sits level with a 1" bore. I wonder how swappable the reservoirs are between similar year Ford MC's? I'm considering buying both and finding out.
I have several of the ford MC with the plastic reservoirs... I never could get them to work like I wanted them to. Maybe it was bleeding.. but I tried several methods, including a power bleeder, but brake pedal feel was always off. (I use 1" bore MC). It wasn't until I switched to the Wilwood MC that I felt good about the brakes... I resisted for years, but after changing different cheap Ford OEM MC (all with the plastic reservoirs ), with no better results, I finally switched to the Wilwood and never went back.

Anyway, the reservoirs are swappable. I've done several of them. At least the ones that I have.

-Shannon
 
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91 Ranger 1" bore driver's side outlets. or Aerostat van
 
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The tricky part is that they are made for a booster, I installed mine with a custom rod and neglected to think through the fact that it does not capture the rod end. I need to fix this or get rid of it as should the rod come out if somehow I lift the pedal too far, use your imagination.
How could you fix it? I have purchased a Windstar MC and a Ford Universal Manual MC Push Rod Kit , but have not put it in yet.
 

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How could you fix it? I have purchased a Windstar MC and a Ford Universal Manual MC Push Rod Kit , but have not put it in yet.
The goal would be to put a washer behind the circlip that captures the Rod, my rod will need some sort of stop added likely welded to the rod as the WInstar has a small end instead of a large knob on the end like a stock one that can be captured by the washer. The trick is that the piston has to come all the way back home to clear the port into the reservoir or you get new issues. Eventually my WInstar MC will go as I really do not like the plastic in the engine compartment, looks wrong. Might be interesting to compare the pistons in an old MC to the new, If I could convince myself that a) the rubber was interchangable and b) the pistons were in teh same place, I might use the old washer and rod that captures the rod.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
The goal would be to put a washer behind the circlip that captures the Rod, my rod will need some sort of stop added likely welded to the rod as the WInstar has a small end instead of a large knob on the end like a stock one that can be captured by the washer. The trick is that the piston has to come all the way back home to clear the port into the reservoir or you get new issues. Eventually my WInstar MC will go as I really do not like the plastic in the engine compartment, looks wrong. Might be interesting to compare the pistons in an old MC to the new, If I could convince myself that a) the rubber was interchangable and b) the pistons were in teh same place, I might use the old washer and rod that captures the rod.
So I got the Windstar MC from Rockauto today, closeout, Wagner labeled, made in Taiwan, 30 day warranty, for $40 including shipping and taxes. I have a power brake booster so I don't have to worry about the rod falling out nor do you or anyone else because the hole in the back of the MC for the rod is crazy deep! Anyway my question is which port is the primary for the front disks? On my current MC the rear is for the fronts but if I had to guess things have changed since the 1967 Mustang MC. How do you have your hooked up @dobrostang ?

789971
 
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