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1966 GT 4spd
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Boat anchor? Isn’t that what everyone called the 390? What wrong with a 460?

Its a stout motor especially with the aftermarket aluminum SCJ heads. We have a fellow member here with a bad ass 69 Stang.

It may not be a corner carver but not everyone wants one. There are a ton of cars and trucks out there that can’t corner but go like a bat outta hell in a straight line and they grin from ear to ear just like the rest of us.

Check this out. You don’t have to go full race but can take a lot of cues from @Gxjetmech


Chris
 

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I am just trying to figure out what parts, in what order, on the car will come apart or fail with 1000 HP trying to get to the rear tires.

I passed on a Boss 9, that was a DEALER sponsored drag car, ordered as close to Body in White as they could get back then, built, and campaigned for a year. It was NO WHERE near 1000 hp, and had about 3000 miles on it, mostly 1/4 at a time. Sadly, to keep costs down, it had a 6 cyl vin. It was interesting as there was no sound deadener anywhere in the car, no windshield wiper openings, a lot of drilled holes that were never drilled, etc.

The last pass curled the rear leafs and separated the rear frame rails from the unibody.
 

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The 460 is a fine engine. Its retarded something like 6 to 8 degrees on the crank sprocket from the factory. I've always wanted a 69 or 70 mustang with a 521 stroker big block in it. But for a good balanced car it makes sense to go with a stroker 408 or 454 Windsor if you want a lot of cubes.
 

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It may not be a corner carver but not everyone wants one.
That’s a fair point, and one that shouldn’t be ignored.

That said, usually when people are looking toward purpose-built drag cars, they state that goal. I think when it comes to street-driven 60’s domestic cars, the culture in general has migrated from straight line street freaks more toward a pro-touring spirit when it comes to performance modification. Because of this, I think more people (myself included) default to a balance (power/handling/braking) when making recommendations. That’s maybe not the best approach.
 

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Generally speaking, most people feel that in the case of the 460, bigger doesn’t necessarily mean better. There are lighter and more affordable ways to make big power. 460 is good for a farm truck, but regarded by most as a boat anchor in a pony car/muscle car application.

Not saying it’s not possible if you just want big cube bragging rights, but not worth it to most.
you have no idea ! my mild 460 made 550 hp at 5700 rpm on the dyno. pulled this 66 full size wagon like it was made of plastic. a very fast and powerful engine

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The 460 based engine in my 69 fits tight even with the shock towers cut back as much as I possibly could. Plug changes take about a 1/2 hr. Build what you want and dont listen to the nay sayers. I myself like having a pump gas 750 plus Hp engine that doesn’t spin much more than 6000 rpm. Yes a 351 or even a 302 based engine will make as much power and be lighter, but your going to rev it alot higher too. And the small block won’t come anywhere close to making the low end torque that the big cubes will give you. I guess it depends on what YOU want to do with YOUR car.

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I had a friend about 30 years ago stuff a 460 into a 1970 Mach 1 four speed car because he was missing the SCJ 428 the car was built with. He ran factory exhaust manifolds. All I can say is that I was glad he never asked me to help him change the plugs. I don't know how the hell he got them out with the shock towers in the way. Around the same time I pulled a 429 wedge engine I bought out of a legit 1970 Boss 302 (why the hell anyone would do that swap is a mystery to me). It was a bear getting everything unbolted to get that engine out. I was going to stuff it in my 1970 Sportsroof. I'm glad I ended up selling the 429 and putting a 351C in my car instead.
 

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Like I said above, different goals can justify different things. Bet that yacht didn’t like corners too much.:p
buddy you have no idea how good that barge cornered after i got done with the suspension. remeber for a few decades nascar used the front frame stub and front suspension off those full size fords. That is a galaxie with a wagon back end. I had a 66 galaxie and the suspenion and frame is the same. mine came with the optional big 4 piston front dics and i put wilwood disc on the rear. i had custom coils made. custom valved stock car shocks. modified a arms , Sweet mfg 14:1 steering box. custom 1.125 front sway bar and 5/8 rear bar. Strange 31 spline axles with a locker. 15x10 bassett stock car rims with 5" bolt circle and 5/8" studs. the front rotors were off a 65 suicide door linclon continental. tires were bfg hr4 275-60-15 and the tread was nice and soft. the car felt like it was on rails even at thew top speed of 142 mph. it didnt carner like my 65 mustang but it did corner way better then a lotta so called setup cars i drove. I wouldnt turn down any street driven mustang of camaro. the 460 liked twisting axles , snapping us gear pinions , cracking the rear upper trailing arm , bending the lower trailing arms , twisting toploader 31 spline output shafts , ringing the teeth off the input gear , having the cops follow me around , etc so i parted it out one day after 75,000 fun miles. btw it scared several people that road in the mountan roads with me and out cornered a few so called fast cars at willowsprings on open track days. others called it the nascar wagon ,i told them it was a moonshine hauler. I am from south mississipi and visit there often. who knows maybe it was a blocker car.
 

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A 385 series in a 67+ is a very simple bolt-in swap and a complete no brainer for bang for the buck in $/hp spent.

No small block will compare.

I put one in my 69FB 20 yrs ago as a college kid on a college kid budget that went 12.1 @ 112 on 18" drag radials and still got nearly 15mpg to and from the track. (50 miles each way)

While 12.1 isn't quick by todays std's, 20yrs ago it was plenty respectable on street car night at the track.

I had $1500 in it and dyno'd 355rwhp/400rwtq SAE dynojet.
 

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So for about $18,000, but FREE FREIGHT, directly from Ford, all new parts in a 460 block, stroked to 572.

My takeaways is that with the copious list of parts, it is

1) 655 horsepower, a very impressive 1.14 horse to cubic inch ratio
2) It is $18K
3) It took a boatload of parts and machine work to get it to that level.
4) Requires Premium gas.

Ford Performance 572 Cubic Inch 655HP Big Block Front Sump Street Crate Engine
M-6007-572DF
The BIG BLOCK is BACK!
This 572 cubic inch big block crate engine makes impressive power with excellent driveability while utilizing premium, unleaded pump gas.
655 Horsepower @ 5500 rpm
710 lb.-ft. torque @ 4500 rpm
  • Power: 655HP @ 5,500 rpm
  • Torque: 710 Lb-ft @ 4,500 rpm
  • Engine type: 385 Series 429/460 Big Block
  • Displacement: 572 Cubic Inches
  • Bore x Stroke: 4.500 inch bore x 4.500 inch stroke
  • Engine block: Ford Performance Siamese Bore Performnance 460 Block M-6010-A460
    • High strength block for professional competition
    • Siamese cylinder bore design for increased cylinder wall thickness
    • 10.322 inch deck height
    • Cast iron block
    • 4 bolt main caps on journals 2, 3, and 4.
    • Nodular iron main caps
    • Priority main oiling system design
    • Wet sump oiling design
    • Can be bored/stroked to produce 598 cubic inches
  • Crankshaft: SCAT forged steel
  • Connecting rods: SCAT forged steel H-beam connecting rods and ARP bolts
  • Pistons: Diamond with floating wrist pins
  • Camshaft type: Hydraulic roller
  • Lifters: Hydraulic roller lifters
  • Camshaft lift: 0.649 inch
  • Camshaft duration:
    • Intake: 259 degrees @ 0.050 inch lift
    • Exhaust: 263 degrees @ 0.050 inch lift
  • Cylinder heads: Ford Performance Super Cobra Jet aluminum cylinder heads M-6049-SCJA
    • Valve springs: Dual springs
    • Valve angles and locations designed to reduce cylinder wall shrouding and improve flow.
    • Combustion chambers designed to accommodate the centrally located valves.
    • Stainless steel 2.20 inch intake valve
    • Stainless steel 1.76 inch exhaust valve
    • 72cc combustion chambers
    • 290cc intake runner
    • 148cc exhaust runner
    • Machined 7-degree locks
    • Steel valve spring retainers
    • Premium valve seals
  • Compression ratio: 10.0:1 (nominal)
  • Rocker arms: Crower stainless steel roller rocker arms
  • Timing chain: Multi-index roller timing chain set
  • Oil pump: Jon Kaase heavy duty aluminum oil pump
  • Vibration damper: Ford Performance SFI approved high performance M-6316-A521
  • Valve covers: Ford Performance aluminum valve covers M-6582-B460
  • Oil pan: High performance front sump oil pan
  • Intake manifold: Aluminum Edeblrock Victor single plane 2966
  • Carburetor: Holley Street Avenger 870 CFM carburetor
  • Distributor: MSD Distributor
  • Water pump: Aluminum Edelbrock
  • Spark plug wires: Ford Racing 9mm spark plug wires
  • Required fuel: Premium Unleaded
  • Exhaust gasket required: Fel-Pro 1420
  • Built with current available parts. Engine photo and specs may vary.
 

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1966 GT 4spd
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buddy you have no idea how good that barge cornered after i got done with the suspension. remeber for a few decades nascar used the front frame stub and front suspension off those full size fords. That is a galaxie with a wagon back end. I had a 66 galaxie and the suspenion and frame is the same. mine came with the optional big 4 piston front dics and i put wilwood disc on the rear. i had custom coils made. custom valved stock car shocks. modified a arms , Sweet mfg 14:1 steering box. custom 1.125 front sway bar and 5/8 rear bar. Strange 31 spline axles with a locker. 15x10 bassett stock car rims with 5" bolt circle and 5/8" studs. the front rotors were off a 65 suicide door linclon continental. tires were bfg hr4 275-60-15 and the tread was nice and soft. the car felt like it was on rails even at thew top speed of 142 mph. it didnt carner like my 65 mustang but it did corner way better then a lotta so called setup cars i drove. I wouldnt turn down any street driven mustang of camaro. the 460 liked twisting axles , snapping us gear pinions , cracking the rear upper trailing arm , bending the lower trailing arms , twisting toploader 31 spline output shafts , ringing the teeth off the input gear , having the cops follow me around , etc so i parted it out one day after 75,000 fun miles. btw it scared several people that road in the mountan roads with me and out cornered a few so called fast cars at willowsprings on open track days. others called it the nascar wagon ,i told them it was a moonshine hauler. I am from south mississipi and visit there often. who knows maybe it was a blocker car.
Very cool. Would love to see more pics of all that work you put into it.

Chris
 

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1966 GT 4spd
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So for about $18,000, but FREE FREIGHT, directly from Ford, all new parts in a 460 block, stroked to 572.

My takeaways is that with the copious list of parts, it is

1) 655 horsepower, a very impressive 1.14 horse to cubic inch ratio
2) It is $18K
3) It took a boatload of parts and machine work to get it to that level.
4) Requires Premium gas.

Ford Performance 572 Cubic Inch 655HP Big Block Front Sump Street Crate Engine
M-6007-572DF
The BIG BLOCK is BACK!
This 572 cubic inch big block crate engine makes impressive power with excellent driveability while utilizing premium, unleaded pump gas.
655 Horsepower @ 5500 rpm
710 lb.-ft. torque @ 4500 rpm
  • Power: 655HP @ 5,500 rpm
  • Torque: 710 Lb-ft @ 4,500 rpm
  • Engine type: 385 Series 429/460 Big Block
  • Displacement: 572 Cubic Inches
  • Bore x Stroke: 4.500 inch bore x 4.500 inch stroke
  • Engine block: Ford Performance Siamese Bore Performnance 460 Block M-6010-A460
    • High strength block for professional competition
    • Siamese cylinder bore design for increased cylinder wall thickness
    • 10.322 inch deck height
    • Cast iron block
    • 4 bolt main caps on journals 2, 3, and 4.
    • Nodular iron main caps
    • Priority main oiling system design
    • Wet sump oiling design
    • Can be bored/stroked to produce 598 cubic inches
  • Crankshaft: SCAT forged steel
  • Connecting rods: SCAT forged steel H-beam connecting rods and ARP bolts
  • Pistons: Diamond with floating wrist pins
  • Camshaft type: Hydraulic roller
  • Lifters: Hydraulic roller lifters
  • Camshaft lift: 0.649 inch
  • Camshaft duration:
    • Intake: 259 degrees @ 0.050 inch lift
    • Exhaust: 263 degrees @ 0.050 inch lift
  • Cylinder heads: Ford Performance Super Cobra Jet aluminum cylinder heads M-6049-SCJA
    • Valve springs: Dual springs
    • Valve angles and locations designed to reduce cylinder wall shrouding and improve flow.
    • Combustion chambers designed to accommodate the centrally located valves.
    • Stainless steel 2.20 inch intake valve
    • Stainless steel 1.76 inch exhaust valve
    • 72cc combustion chambers
    • 290cc intake runner
    • 148cc exhaust runner
    • Machined 7-degree locks
    • Steel valve spring retainers
    • Premium valve seals
  • Compression ratio: 10.0:1 (nominal)
  • Rocker arms: Crower stainless steel roller rocker arms
  • Timing chain: Multi-index roller timing chain set
  • Oil pump: Jon Kaase heavy duty aluminum oil pump
  • Vibration damper: Ford Performance SFI approved high performance M-6316-A521
  • Valve covers: Ford Performance aluminum valve covers M-6582-B460
  • Oil pan: High performance front sump oil pan
  • Intake manifold: Aluminum Edeblrock Victor single plane 2966
  • Carburetor: Holley Street Avenger 870 CFM carburetor
  • Distributor: MSD Distributor
  • Water pump: Aluminum Edelbrock
  • Spark plug wires: Ford Racing 9mm spark plug wires
  • Required fuel: Premium Unleaded
  • Exhaust gasket required: Fel-Pro 1420
  • Built with current available parts. Engine photo and specs may vary.
18k List right? Seems like a very fair price for that HP

Chris
 

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Back before aftermarket aluminum heads and stroker kits were available for small blocks, you ran a big block to make power. Nowadays with being able to run up to a 460 ci Dart 351W block as sportsroof69 pointed out, the need is no longer there to run a big block and deal with the associated issues (weight, lack of space, etc). My 393 based 351W will run circles around any factory style big block. Like I said before, I almost stuffed a 429 into my previous 1970 Mustang 35 years ago. But instead I put a 351C in the car. At that time there was no aftermarket support for the 351W (e.g. aluminum heads, stroker kits) and 351C engines were the screaming Ford small block. While 351C's are still great engines, the 351W based small block is the way to go today.
 

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An alum headed BBF is going to weigh the same as any iron headed 351 so I don't see the argument about ill handling as the nose weight is the same as when it was new. It's not a corner carver either way but people act like they are undriveable which is absurd. Mine had iron heads, manual brakes, and manual steering. Heck even had a mini-spool in it for a period of time.

393 with AFR heads is the same cost to build as a 557 with AFR heads....therefore the 557 will make more hp/$ all day.

I am not a guy that likes to spend more for less....so BBF gets my vote.

You are correct there could be packaging issues if running PS and PB...but it's not impossible and plug changes on a 351C are not much better than a 385 series in the same chassis.
 

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The original poster said he had a dream of 1000hp. A bored and stroked BBF will make that kind of power N/A, where even the largest (460”) small block will need boost or spray to reach that goal. The BBF will go to 557cid on a factory block, 632cid with an aftermarket block. All those extra cubic inches make it WAY easier to make more power than any small block will make. The old rule still applies. There is NO substitute for cubic inches.
 

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The original poster said he had a dream of 1000hp. A bored and stroked BBF will make that kind of power N/A, where even the largest (460”) small block will need boost or spray to reach that goal. The BBF will go to 557cid on a factory block, 632cid with an aftermarket block. All those extra cubic inches make it WAY easier to make more power than any small block will make. The old rule still applies. There is NO substitute for cubic inches.
We made 998 hp with a N/A SBF that had a nitrous cam in it, that was definitely giving up power off the bottle.
 

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I have a 460 in my 69 Cougar. Aluminum heads and intake, shorty (FPA) headers and short tailshaft C6. Pretty much a drop-in. I installed 428 springs but the nose was high and had no give so I went back to small block (351W) springs with a 1" drop. Shelby style trac bars and F70 14" tires. 3.25:1 locker rearend. It handles as good as it did with the 351W in it. As long as you don't punch it with the front wheels turned or on a wet road you'll be fine.

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