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A friend of mine is installing a 5.0 crate motor in his '66. His goal is to make the crate motor look like the original 289 so he is using the early timing chain cover. Here are a few questions he has:

The cam timing chain gear is a bit different from the original. Two of the key differences:
1)The 5.0 gear is beefier in the center and so the bolt sits more forward. This pushed the fuel pump eccentric forward to where I think it is going to rub the TC cover. Options?

2)The key that holds the cam timing gear(and the fuel pump eccentric) doesn't extend beyond the surface of the TC gear which means there would be nothing to hold the fuel pump eccentric except the bolt. Is that right?

3)When I disassembled my old engine's TC cover area, there is a ring over the crankshaft between the crank gear and the TC cover. This ring is just some thin metal and is about a half inch wide. It looks almost like a splash shield for the front seal in the TC cover. I'm debating about if it's needed here. I have the new block but an old TC cover. My initial take is to go ahead and use it since I have an original type TC cover/seal.

4)In looking at the new distributor gear, I came across another question. The existing distributor gear has a small pin through it and the distributor shaft to lock it into place. The new roller cam gear doesn't have such a pin hole. Does the roller cam gear need to get drilled and mounted in exactly the same place on the shaft or does it change locations?

Thanks,
 

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1)The 5.0 gear is beefier in the center and so the bolt sits more forward. This pushed the fuel pump eccentric forward to where I think it is going to rub the TC cover. Options?

Use a two piece eccentric from Total Performance...

44050 N Groesbeck Hwy
Clinton Twp, MI 48036-1108
(586) 468-3673
[email protected]

2)The key that holds the cam timing gear(and the fuel pump eccentric) doesn't extend beyond the surface of the TC gear which means there would be nothing to hold the fuel pump eccentric except the bolt. Is that right?

The Total Performance part has a tab that engages the timing gear hence the pin is not needed.

3)When I disassembled my old engine's TC cover area, there is a ring over the crankshaft between the crank gear and the TC cover. This ring is just some thin metal and is about a half inch wide. It looks almost like a splash shield for the front seal in the TC cover. I'm debating about if it's needed here. I have the new block but an old TC cover. My initial take is to go ahead and use it since I have an original type TC cover/seal.

I don't recall. When I took the serpentine timing cover off my 5.0 crate, I left the crank alone...didn't change anything under the cover except add the fuel pump eccentric and check to see that there was clearance when the cover was installed. This was simply unbolt the cam gear bolt, install the eccentric and put the bolt back on and torque it.

4)In looking at the new distributor gear, I came across another question. The existing distributor gear has a small pin through it and the distributor shaft to lock it into place. The new roller cam gear doesn't have such a pin hole. Does the roller cam gear need to get drilled and mounted in exactly the same place on the shaft or does it change locations?

I had the same question. I avoided it altogether by buying a Mallory Dual Points (2770401). This has everything needed in a single package distributor. You can also use Mallory Unilite (4770401). I'm sure a competent machine shop can drill the steel gear for an exact fit however the cost of the machine shop work plus the cost of the gear are more than half the cost of the Mallory distributor. At that juncture, I just bit the bullet and bought the Mallory. I got it at Summit Racing for $149.
 

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I have 5.0 crate in my '67. Using old style TC with standard rotation water pump, but using electric fuel pump, so I can't answer any eccentric questions (just the "normal" questions :p)

Had to replace the dist gear for a roller cam. Bought a new gear which came with a new pin but no hole. Local machine shop removed old gear, pressed on new gear, drilled and pinned for $15. Much less than buying a hydraulic press to do it myself.
 

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Like geegee said, Total Performance will be able to help with the fuel pump eccentric. The one I got was one piece with a pin. I think the pin was longer than the old one and worked nicely.

I got my distributor gear from MSD to go with my MSD distributor. It had the hole in it.
 

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The thin metal disk.. is called the oil slinger. I have always been told that without it on the early cover you will get a leak, but on the late model cover something is built in to the cover to eliminate it.. If you have it.. use it, as it won't hurt anything.. Junkyards can be a source for the 2 piece fuel pump eccentric.. I don't know the year ford started using them, but I have run accross them before..

AJ
 

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Just add a few thoughts to the other replies... I installed the oil slinger on the 5.0 based engine in the Fastback. You often hear that the oil slinger was intended to prevent leaks at the front seal; however, I'm not sure that was the case. I'm more inclined to think its purpose was to lubricate (by slinging oil) to parts of the timing chain and more importantly to the fuel pump eccentric. Perhaps that is why it is not present on 5.0 engines since they have electric fuel pumps. Another factor may have been some redesign of the front cover itself that negated the need for a slinger. Since I was using a 1969 front cover and a mechanical fuel pump, I opted to install one. As for the steel distributor gear... have a qualified machine shop install the steel gear on your distributor. It is very important that it be positioned exactly on the distributor shaft, which is probably why the hole is not drilled already.
 
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