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Discussion Starter #1
I’m starting this thread as general help thread for my Ford EFI project instead of separate posts for each question/problem I encounter.

Right now I’m focusing on the short term goal of getting engine started. And I need help tying the EFI wiring to the stock ignition switch harness.

Looking at the switch connector:
Yellow is Battery+ and I leave as is?
Black/Green and Light Blue/Red (ring terminals) are Accessory and I Leave as is?

I have Red/Blue on one terminal.
Green/Red and Salmon on another terminal. (This terminal has continuity to the brown connector to the Starter Relay (middle connector of the harness end pic).

Which is Run and which is Start?

Looking at the connectors at Starter Relay:
The Red ring (bottom connector) has continuity the other Ring with the 2 wires.

Does anyone know the wire gauge of this red wire and the other 2 going the the Battery +? I may want to consolidate these 3 wires to one larger wire when I start cleaning up the harness.
 

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I don't know about the EFI wiring, but all the stock 60s wiring is in the back of the shop manual. Here's the starting and charging for a 68, the rest are similar:
http://averagejoerestoration.com/wp-content/gallery/1968-mustang-wiring-diagram/1968-mustang-wiring-diagram-ignition-starting-charging.jpg

At the ignition switch:
Yellow (21) is the battery power and ties back to those ring terminals in the other pic
Not sure on the accessory terminals. Black/Green might be the IVR.
Red/Blue (32) is the start wire. Goes to the NSS and then to the solenoid start post
Green/Red (904) goes to the voltage regulator
Salmon (16) is the famous pink resistor wire that runs the coil. The brown wire from the solenoid bypasses the resistor and feeds it 12v while starting.

On the solenoid end it's just the Red/Blue (32) starting wire, Brown (262) and the ring terminals are the power from the alternator (3/27/38a) and the power back out to the VR, Amp gauge and everything else (655/152/38a/37).

If you start tracing your way through the diagrams you should be able to track everything down pretty easily. There's not a lot to the old harness once you dig into it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you Magnus. I pulled out the front harness and unwrapped it for clean-up.

I think I have this figured out. (16) is the Ignition Run position.


As I am currently wired, I have relays for EEC and the Fuel Pump.


Should I also have MA/02 and Ignition relays like this diagram?
 

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I'm not really an expert on EFI systems so hopefully someone with more experience can jump in here.

What I can say is that in the 1995 Mustang Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual it shows the MAF sensor is run off of the PCM Power Relay and the H02 Sensors are just shown coming off of a 20A fuse. Though I imagine that putting them on a relay wouldn't hurt anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
My MAF is currently on the EEC relay and I'm going to leave it there.
But the O2 and Ignition are not currently run through relays.

This is how my harness is currently wired:
Ignition Run > 5 amp fuse > O2 sensors
Ignition Run > 15 amp fuse > Coil /TFI4

I don't have the Ignition Run wire going to the 2G Alternator yet. But the diagram I'm looking shows a 20 Amp fuse inline.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Need Help - Plumbing AOD to Transcooler in Aluminum Radiator (ECP).


I have this NPT to AN fitting. It is steel and the correct size for the 5/16 tubing.
Can I use this steel fitting in an aluminum radiator?
I am also trying to size the AN side? Is this -5 ?
 

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As long as the threads in the radiator are NPT, teflon it and use it, and yes 5/16 ID fitting is AN or JIC -5
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hello VMF,
I tried firing her up last weekend and she's not starting.
I pulled the #1 plug and she's got spark.
Fuel pressure reads 38-40 PSI.
I adjusted the throttle body idle screw to open it up a bit, and even tried holding the TB open a little.

While I have fuel pressure at the rail. I am not sure that the injectors are opening. The spark plug was not noticeably wet or smell like gas.
I squirted a short blast of carb cleaner down the intake and got a little firing. I was hesitant to spray anymore.

For next steps, my own thoughts are to spray some ether down the intake and if fires, start looking for fuel delivery issues.

I'll be picking up a can of starting fluid and a test light tomorrow.
Anything else I need from the auto store?

Thoughts on what I should be looking at next?

 

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Are you getting voltage to the injectors to make them fire? They sell (and probably loan out) little lights you can use to see if the injectors are firing, but I imaging back probing them with a voltmeter is probably just as good. Light example if you need new toys: Noid Lights

You've got spark, but is the timing right? Distributor not 180° out?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Are you getting voltage to the injectors to make them fire? They sell (and probably loan out) little lights you can use to see if the injectors are firing, but I imaging back probing them with a voltmeter is probably just as good. Light example if you need new toys: Noid Lights

You've got spark, but is the timing right? Distributor not 180° out?
That's why I'm picking up a test light, to check that the injectors are getting power.
Distributor was next on my list depending on results from checking fuel delivery.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
So I reinstalled the distributor. And the timing light shows 8* when cranking.
Checked injector connectors for cylinders #1 and #5. I have power to the connectors, and test light pulses when cranked and testing grounds.
The video below is with a short blast of ether.
The only thing I can think of, is if the injectors are not actually opening.
But I actually used a syringe and applied 12 volts to spray alcohol through all 8 injectors before installing.
I am stumped.

 

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Had the same problem ... wasn't enough gas in the tank for the in-tank pump to run cept on vapours. Depressed the schraeder valve on the fuel rail and only air came out.
Doesn't sound like you're getting fuel.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I decided to reinstall the distiributor yet again, 180* out this time. SOB wouldn't drop back in. After several wasted hours I determined that the fuel pump shaft had become unseated. 180* didn't help. Putting the distributor back was not fun having to seat the oil pump shaft again.

Spark plug gap set to modern roller 302 vs vintage 302? It makes a huge difference between start and no-start. Ask me how I know...
Thanks. According to LMR the part is supose to be ASF-42 and gapped at .054. Autozone gave me part ASF-42CA. I measured the plugs at .042. I opened them up to .054. It still didn't start but at least they are gapped properly now.

Had the same problem ... wasn't enough gas in the tank for the in-tank pump to run cept on vapours. Depressed the schraeder valve on the fuel rail and only air came out.
Doesn't sound like you're getting fuel.
I have 4 gallons in the tank. I put the fuel pressure gauge on that same shrader valve. It is definitely wet and the guage reads a solid 38PSI.

I'm moving on to other parts of the project for now. When I come back to it I'm going to pull the fuel rail and injectors. Maybe even just install new injectors. I find it hard to believe that all 8 would be bad enough to not start at all. Maybe the rail was dirty and plugged up the injectors. I can't think of anything else.
 

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It sounds like it tries to start when you add the ether. I wonder if the wiring is set correctly to tell the ECU that you are in run mode at the point you release the key from start? Have you test bench some injectors to see if they open? If I recall correctly, its just a matter of supplying 12v and GND to the connectors and you will hear them click open. Let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
It sounds like it tries to start when you add the ether. I wonder if the wiring is set correctly to tell the ECU that you are in run mode at the point you release the key from start? Have you test bench some injectors to see if they open? If I recall correctly, its just a matter of supplying 12v and GND to the connectors and you will hear them click open. Let us know.
I pushed alcohol through the injectors using 12V and a syringe before installing them. They all sprayed a nice even pattern. But maybe there was some gunk in the fuel rails that is now plugging them up.

As far as wiring, I used the TMOSS diagram for reference. I don't see how it knows any difference between Run and Start. But the injectors getting power and grounding with the ignition switch in the Run position and using a remote start switch to crank the engine. I also used the key thinking I might have it in ACC instead of Run. It's been so long since I've driven it, I forgot where the key positions were.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Have you scanned the Computer to look into pid data or even a KOEO test. It would my next step. Find a scanner to borrow it may set you free.
I actually got her started today. And I'm pretty stoked about it. I pulled the injectors and tested them again. 3 would not spray anything and 1 did not make a nice spray pattern. I had another set of injectors laying around and managed to make 8 good ones out of the bunch. Now on to other stuff to get her back on the road. Hopefully she's a driver by next summer.
 

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Nice. Good to hear. Unfortunatly Ford eec systems from its beginnings to 5 had "all the above common failures" for connectors , relays,sensors, solenoids, fuel pressure regulators, pumps, coils ecms, pcms and inerta switches. It was hard say reliably which were likley causes with out test equipment.
 
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