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1967 Convertible, 5.0HO EFI, AOD
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello Mod and Custom,


This is a 5.0HO EFI in a ’67. I’m leaning towards removing the EGR and installing a ½” EGR delete plate and eliminator plug to move the intake tube away from the shock tower.


I am asking for your opinions and input regarding the EGR Delete.
 

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I would and actually did. Car hasn't ran yet though. You'll need to plug some holes in the back of the heads and on the lower intake gaskets if I remember correct. Also the water line from the heater tube.
 

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67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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I wouldn't. Because I kind like decent fuel mileage and performance from a realistically moderate engine and have no plans for a supercharger, using nitrous, or anything like that. A lot of people pull EGR valves because: A, they quite frankly don't understand what it does. B, They assume anything anything pollution related is bad for performance. And/or C, those guys over there are doing it. Or so it seems.
 

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I wouldn't. Because I kind like decent fuel mileage and performance from a realistically moderate engine and have no plans for a supercharger, using nitrous, or anything like that. A lot of people pull EGR valves because: A, they quite frankly don't understand what it does. B, They assume anything anything pollution related is bad for performance. And/or C, those guys over there are doing it. Or so it seems.
Good point. I didn't think about that as I'm running a stand alone ecu from stinger performance. It wont effect my mpg at all. That's all in the tune...
 

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We removed it on my son’s 95 GT and plunged the rear ports and removed the smog pump. It definitely seemed to help with the stumble off idle when cold and seems to rev a bit faster. I still have it on my 94GT.
 

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I wouldn't. Because I kind like decent fuel mileage and performance from a realistically moderate engine and have no plans for a supercharger, using nitrous, or anything like that. A lot of people pull EGR valves because: A, they quite frankly don't understand what it does. B, They assume anything anything pollution related is bad for performance. And/or C, those guys over there are doing it. Or so it seems.
The times I have deleted EGR have not negatively impacted fuel mileage...however, those weren't 5.0 engines either...they were turbo 4 cylinders. That being said, I wouldn't have bothered if I didn't just need the pipe gone(one less problem when boosting a car). If its not causing some type of problem, leave it be.
 

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When you do the delete do you reprogram the tune to remove the feature, use an aftermarket ecu or dummy resistance plugs on the sensor harness? I don’t have one but it seems the stock computer would throw a fit as there are likely egr trouble codes.
 

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I did the delete on the 95 donor engine. The dummy resistor plugs don't work on that ecu. I turned it off in the tune.
I'd rather turn it off on an earlier engine as well.
Hey ... 501 posts with this user name ... only took 13yrs.
 

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1967 Convertible, 5.0HO EFI, AOD
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I wouldn't. Because I kind like decent fuel mileage and performance from a realistically moderate engine and have no plans for a supercharger, using nitrous, or anything like that. A lot of people pull EGR valves because: A, they quite frankly don't understand what it does. B, They assume anything anything pollution related is bad for performance. And/or C, those guys over there are doing it. Or so it seems.

I admittedly don't fully understand what it does. I'm not opposed to keeping it, especially if is contributes to better MPG.



But I also don't have much of the other smog equipment. Referencing the site linked below, I don't have any of Smog pump (Thermactor Air System), or EVAP


Would retaining the EGR valve and EGR position sensor still be beneficial without the rest of the smog gear?

I have the EGR vacuum controller (EVR) in my pile of parts if that is somehow needed.



https://foxstang.com/fox-mustang-smog-system-help/

 

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The EGR is a controlled leak of exhaust into the intake to cool combustion to reduce NOX (Oxides of nitrogen). The 5.0 H.O was a very advanced sequential fuel injection. The fuel maps include the EGR for optimum performance. This is why my speed density has the EGR still. A MAF system CAN be tuned to eliminate the EGR (do NOT use a resistor plug!) No one bothered on the SD systems. The system is not active until 1200-1500 RPM, so if idle is an issue, you probably have a leaking EGR or vacuum leak. I notched my strut tower brace and used a Ford diesel intake 90 bend to clear the curve on the "combover). Use the EGR unless you have a surefire tune without it. The engine will run cleaner and as designed. Good luck, @DonP and keep us posted!
 

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If you need to get the intake pipe away from the shock tower a 94/95 Mustang upper intake might help. It's got a curve in it to move it away from the towers instead of being straight like the one you've got.

I'm not sure if there's any performance difference. The 95 Cobra seems to have the same curve in a slightly different looking intake, but it's an idea.
95-intake.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The EGR is a controlled leak of exhaust into the intake to cool combustion to reduce NOX (Oxides of nitrogen). The 5.0 H.O was a very advanced sequential fuel injection. The fuel maps include the EGR for optimum performance. This is why my speed density has the EGR still. A MAF system CAN be tuned to eliminate the EGR (do NOT use a resistor plug!) No one bothered on the SD systems. The system is not active until 1200-1500 RPM, so if idle is an issue, you probably have a leaking EGR or vacuum leak. I notched my strut tower brace and used a Ford diesel intake 90 bend to clear the curve on the "combover). Use the EGR unless you have a surefire tune without it. The engine will run cleaner and as designed. Good luck, @DonP and keep us posted!

Are the exhaust gases coming from internal passages in the Heads and Intake manifolds?
I don't have any other smog equipment.
I would be using the resistor plug and not getting tune.


If you need to get the intake pipe away from the shock tower a 94/95 Mustang upper intake might help. It's got a curve in it to move it away from the towers instead of being straight like the one you've got.

I'm not sure if there's any performance difference. The 95 Cobra seems to have the same curve in a slightly different looking intake, but it's an idea.
View attachment 720176

Thanks. I'm not willing to buy a new intake manifold right now. I actually have a later model Explorer intake manifold laying around that does not have the EGR passages.
 

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If you need to get the intake pipe away from the shock tower a 94/95 Mustang upper intake might help. It's got a curve in it to move it away from the towers instead of being straight like the one you've got.

I'm not sure if there's any performance difference. The 95 Cobra seems to have the same curve in a slightly different looking intake, but it's an idea.
View attachment 720176
At least your engine is clearly happy! lol
 

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Are the exhaust gases coming from internal passages in the Heads and Intake manifolds?
I don't have any other smog equipment.
I would be using the resistor plug and not getting tune.

The old heat riser from the center port of the intake side of the cylinder head goes through the round hole in the center of your intake all the way up to the hole at the valve (not sure which one).The EGR vacuum solenoid pipes vacuum to the egr valve and the lift sensor tells the ecm how far the valve is opened based on the 5 volt reference.. I'm assuming the plug takes the place of the solenoid and sends a signal back to keep the check engine light off(which you don't have), and possibly keeps the computer out of "limp" mode. Sounds like a recipe for not as good performance without the tune!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for taking the time to explain all this EGR business @665spd . I think I will go ahead and keep it for now at least.


Now, which hose goes to the EGR valve? And which goes to the manifold vacuum?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
We removed it on my son’s 95 GT and plunged the rear ports and removed the smog pump. It definitely seemed to help with the stumble off idle when cold and seems to rev a bit faster. I still have it on my 94GT.

For all the complicated explanations saying why one should keep EGR, I see just as many people saying they've done it with no issues.

I'm going to keep it for now. I may delete it later and see how it goes.
 

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The only reason we removed it was the smog pump melted down. Removing all th smog stuff really opened up the engine bay though..
 
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For all the complicated explanations saying why one should keep EGR, I see just as many people saying they've done it with no issues.

I'm going to keep it for now. I may delete it later and see how it goes.
Thanks for taking the time to explain all this EGR business @665spd . I think I will go ahead and keep it for now at least.


Now, which hose goes to the EGR valve? And which goes to the manifold vacuum?
The vacuum switch is just a gateway; shouldn't matter which line you hook up to vacuum and which to the egr valve.
@Flade , that smog system is a whole different matter. It introduces fresh air to the exhaust to somehow clean up the output? I think it used to be called Air Injector Reactor(AIR) on older cars. It's a power robbing waste, but will kick a code if you don't hook up the solenoid, @DonP , which is what I did. I really wanted to remove my egr, to clean up the engine and limit heat in my engine compartment, but I would definitely tune it out, which I couldn't do with speed density. Saw this pic and figured it would fit. Mine doesn't fit this way...(maybe dropped engine mounts?) I have no codes in my ECM, and the engine runs very smoothly, even with A/C
 

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