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i did a search to find out what i would need to do this swap but couldn't find the right answer so can someone help me.
i have a 65 coupe with a stock v8, c4 combo and have a chance to pick up a 5.0 cheap. i plan on keeping the carberated so i will not be needing to do most of the computer/wiring stuff.
my question is this what if anything will i have to do to bolt the engine to my c4. aside from the electric fuel pump.
will the exhaust work?
cooling system work?
motor mounts?
bellhousing?
i'm sure theres got to be a few of you out there that have done this so some advise would be great.
thanks
:p
 

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You will need a differant flex plate. A 5.0 has a 50 oz harmonic balancer and flex plate. Other than that it will bolt right up. My 66 has a 5.0 in it. ::
 

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You'll need a 50 oz flexplate. I used a B&M, PN 50239, on mine. Cost me $107 from Summit Racing 2 years ago.

You'll need to relocate the dipstick to the front and plug the hole on the side of the 5.0. You'll need to use a pan with a front sump in a '65. Exhaust should bolt up fine.

Are you going to use the 5.0 serpentine pulleys or the old V-belt setup? The 5.0 setup will require a radiator with the bottom outlet on the drivers side. And the 289 V-belt setup will require a different harmonic balancer since the 5.0 uses a 4-bolt pulley and the 289 uses a 3-bolt. I used a 50 oz. 3-bolt pulley from NPD, $155 or so.

You might find some useful info here if other questions pop up:
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/tech.htm
 

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'65 Motor mounts should work as well as the exhaust. Don't forget to buy some plugs to cap off the air injection ports at the rear of each head (the part of the head that faces the fire wall) - I'm assuming you're going to dump the big ol' air injection tube bolted to the back of the engine.

Which valve covers will you use? The HO engine has the oil fill on the passenger valve cover and the driverside has no provision for the PCV valve. I'm not sure if the '65's valve cover would work without rocker interference. A good excuse to buy a nice aftermarket pair!

Regards,

Dean T
 

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Since you will not be using the EFI, I may be interested if it is complete and the price is right. Need all of it, upper and lower intakes, injectors and rails, computer and wiring, mass air meter and throttle body, and all attached sensors. PM or e-mail me. Address is in my profile.

Thanks
 
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What did your 5.0 come out of? Some of these in the full size cars (non-HO) are the 28 oz imbalance. I just finished my install and mine was such a beast from an 85 Crown Vic. I did however decide to go with the AOD since it was there and I had the whole car, and truth be known I wasn't sure about the imbalace thing when I started the swap. I used my original 289 timing cover and pan. I thought this would solve the whole dipstick tube problem. Then I replaced my water pump and being concerned about reverse rotaion and the change of covers went with a pump from a 67 289. WRONG because we had to use the crank pully from the donor motor, again because I wasn't sure about imbalance We had to use all of the 6 rib pulleys. Well at some point they relocated the shaft on the water pumps. The old style was to low and the pulleys wouldn't fit so back to the part store and another water pump that matched the year of the donor solved that problem. That also lead into alternator mounting due to the change in pumps, which now exits on the wrong side. But thats easy to correct. All of this leads me back to the original question. What year is your donor and what did it come from? If you have access realy think about the AOD everyone tels me how great it is and hopefully I to will be able to tell you soon. My donor had a TBI set-up so the original TV rod will work it even clears evething fine. Although I have heard mention that the kickdown for the C4 can be made to work?
 

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There are a number of things you have to decide upon. These include:

a. V-belts or serpentine belts. All accessories and brackets much match the belt type. I chose to use v-belts so this meant changing the timing cover, adding fuel pump eccentric and buying after market harmonic balancer (must be 50 oz-in three bolt).

b. Intake system. I used Weiand Action Plus intake (8011) and Holley Street Avenger (0-80570). Also used aftermarket PCV valve matched up with Ford Racing tall valve covers. Other combinations such as Edelbrock Performer would also work fine.

c. Distributor. If you use steel billet HO camshaft, then you need to use a steel distributor gear. Use a 5.0 distributor or use aftermarket for 5.0L HO. Early distributor won't work because of the gear and because of the shaft length.

d. The oil pan needs to be changed to the front sump (early) pan. Also use the front sump oil pick up tube and screen (early). I use the late model pan torque spreaders with the early front sump pan. Works fine.

e. Motor mounts. You may get away with using '65 forged frame brackets and donut style motor mounts but if you want the least headaches with headers use the '66 frame brackets and motor mounts. If you use manual transmission use Lakewood Muscle motor mounts for '66 in lieu of Ford or aftermarket replacements. The Lakewoods are a lot better having torque limiting needed for high output cars with manual transmissions. Doesn't hurt to use them on automatics either.

f. I don't know where to begin on telling you what to do relative to your transmission choice. I can tell you that on my Motorsport 5.0L the early six bolt bell housing didn't fit. I found that '69-'73 351w block plate and bell housing did fit. The difference was in the location of the block pins on the engine skirt. Whatever...you'll need a 50 oz-in flywheel/flexplate of the correct type to mate your 5.0L and transmission. Block plates, bell housings, starters, flywheels/flexplates must be a matching set.

g. Exhaust. Most all exhaust manifold or header combinations work but there are exceptions. Since there are many possibilities, its easier if you say what you want to do and then ask if it works. I use Hooker Comp headers with the GT40Y heads on my 5.0L.
 

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c. Distributor. If you use steel billet HO camshaft, then you need to use a steel distributor gear. Use a 5.0 distributor or use aftermarket for 5.0L HO. Early distributor won't work because of the gear and because of the shaft length.
One correction. I have an early distributor w/a Mallory (p/n 29418) steel gear. No problems. An early distributor has a smaller oil shaft drive diameter (.467") compared to an five-oh oil shaft drive diameter (.531"). Good advice.
 

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Just a few things to add.. They did mke plenty of 302's with 4 bolt V-drive Pulleys, so don't waste money on a special balencer for 3-bolt puleys since it sounds like u wana do this on the cheap.. Go to a Junk yard and pull the front off a 70's 302, Grab the timming cover, fuel pump eccentric, pulleys and brackets. This makes it much easier to do the front. You can put a steel gear on any distributer you want to use, so you can grab one at a JY or buy a new one.. There are plenty of comapnies that make the flywheels/flexplates in 50oz. balance and 157tooth, so thats easy, There are C4's that used the 164 tooth flexplate out there if you wanna grab one on that trip to the JY or Ehay or what ever source you are gonna use..

AJ
 

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I used to recommend the B&M 50239 flexplate, but TCI has a better deal now! TCI 157 tooth 50 oz flexplate only runs $59.95!!! :: About $50 cheaper than what I paid! :(

I think everybody else has covered most of the details. I'm running a 5.0 crate with a carb & a C4 also... ;)
 

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Damn! That is a better deal. :: And, unlike the B&M, it's SFI approved! ::
 
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