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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone! I am brand new here because I have just inherited a 1966 mustang couple with the six-cylinder engine and C4 trans. It's going to be a fun project for my family and I. But as the title says, it really doesn't run well. Let me explain.

It will fire right up the very first turn of the starter, then right after it will sputter and die. After a few attempts at this and a little fancy footwork with the throttle, I can get it to stay idling for a little bit but after a couple of minutes, it will peter off and die again. The car seems to have a bunch of new parts as you can see in the picture but I notice a fair amount of vacuum lines seem to be missing or blocked off or just in the wrong spot. I have searched the forums but I have not been able to find names to all these lines so I can order them or re-hook them up where they belong. I know pictures speak 1000 words so here are the pictures.

I have some arrows in the carb area, as well as I have named the current firing on the dist going to the engine. is this order correct?

as for the arrow picture, I would really appreciate it if someone could verify what the heck is wrong here. I'm lead to believe it running so bad is due to vacuum problems

Also, I took a picture of the entire engine bay, maybe someone will notice other issues? Any help would be very much appreciated! I'm glad I found a site where I can ask questions as I work on this project! Thank you, everyone!

dist.jpg img1.jpg img2.jpg img3.jpg img4.jpg img5.jpg img6.jpg img7.jpg img8.jpg vaccum lines.jpg
 

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You have an Autolite 1100 carb with an SCV that was designed to be used with an Autolite Load-a-matic distributor. Your Autolite L-A-M distributor has been replaced with a DUI GM HEI style abomination. I doubt that your carb and DUI are compatible.
The spacer underneath the carb is supposed to have the supply hose to the heater connected to the nipples on it to heat the carb for optimum performance. Your supply hose to the heater bypasses the spacer.
The choke on your carb is supposed to have a metal tube coming from the exhaust manifold connected to that fitting with nothing on it. Hot air from the exhaust manifold heats a coil spring inside the black composite material cap and the hot coil spring opens the choke butterfly in the top of the carb.
I don't know what your mechanical abilities are but this engine is going to need a lot of work to get it to run as it should.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You have an Autolite 1100 carb with an SCV that was designed to be used with an Autolite Load-a-matic distributor. Your Autolite L-A-M distributor has been replaced with a DUI GM HEI style abomination. I doubt that your carb and DUI are compatible.
The spacer underneath the carb is supposed to have the supply hose to the heater connected to the nipples on it to heat the carb for optimum performance. Your supply hose to the heater bypasses the spacer.
The choke on your carb is supposed to have a metal tube coming from the exhaust manifold connected to that fitting with nothing on it. Hot air from the exhaust manifold heats a coil spring inside the black composite material cap and the hot coil spring opens the choke butterfly in the top of the carb.
I don't know what your mechanical abilities are but this engine is going to need a lot of work to get it to run as it should.

This is awesome information, thank you very much.

from what I gathered, I need an L-A-M distributor, I need to connect my heater supply hose to go through the spacer, and a metal tube going from the exhaust manifold to the choke on the carb.

I'm ok mechanically, I would feel comfortable fixing all the issues above.

could you, or someone, please send me links to a new distributor, and the little tube going from the manifold to the choke? I wanna make sure I get the right ones!

Thank you! I do really appreciate it!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
After reading around on the forums it seems like there is quite a lot of talk about the load o Matic distributor and the Autolite 1100 SCV carb. I don't necessarily care about keeping things original, I would just like it to be a solid running car. Anyone got any suggestions on the best carb/distributor setup on this specific engine to make it run as well as possible?

Thanks!
 

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Look at an Autolite D410 distributor on rockauto. Since you don't have a core to turn in you may want to post a Want To Buy ad here. Lots of guys replace their L-A-M distributor and SCV carb with '68 parts.

NPD has the choke tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Look at an Autolite D410 distributor on rockauto. Since you don't have a core to turn in you may want to post a Want To Buy ad here. Lots of guys replace their L-A-M distributor and SCV carb with '68 parts.

NPD has the choke tube.

Cool, I see both those. Thank you!

But I see you mentioned that most people switch to 68 parts. Is that a better route to go? if it is what does that entail and what would I need? I'm guessing it would be putting a 68 carb and distributor on my engine?

Thank you for the information. I do really appreciate it.!:)(y)
 

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Check out fordsix.com for a lot more info on modding the 6
 

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But I see you mentioned that most people switch to 68 parts. Is that a better route to go? if it is what does that entail and what would I need? I'm guessing it would be putting a 68 carb and distributor on my engine?
Yes, the '68 parts include a standard, non-SCV carb and a standard vacuum advance style distributor. You can make the engine run better with the DUI distributor if you just replace or modify your carb to non-SCV status.
There are lots of threads on this forum about modding the SCV L-A-M equipped cars to non-SCV, non- L-A-M status. One of my friends, coupster on this forum, has several 6 cylinder cars and he recommends a brand new carb from China that you can buy on Fleabay for about $150.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, the '68 parts include a standard, non-SCV carb and a standard vacuum advance style distributor. You can make the engine run better with the DUI distributor if you just replace or modify your carb to non-SCV status.
There are lots of threads on this forum about modding the SCV L-A-M equipped cars to non-SCV, non- L-A-M status. One of my friends, coupster on this forum, has several 6 cylinder cars and he recommends a brand new carb from China that you can buy on Fleabay for about $150.
Awesome info! Thank you

I can tell I'm kinda out of my knowledge zone with this engine and car, but that's what project cars are about right? I'm glad to learn. I have been reading lots of forums, and I'm thinking what you are saying is my best bet. switch to a 68+ setup.

So any knowledge that can be shared with me about this would be helpful!

I see carbs can be very expensive but you said coupster recommends one for 150$? could I possibly get a link to that or have some way to message coupster? Thanks.

As for the distributor, I'm a little confused. is this what I am looking for?

1968 FORD MUSTANG 3.3L 200cid L6 Distributor | RockAuto

I also see a lot of people talking about electronic ignition and the DurasparkII as being a smart choice to start off with. Is this the case? if it is what is required for this setup?

But I also see from reading the classic inlines website that this setup requires quite a bit of wiring compared to a DUI setup like my current dist. So maybe I should just start by adding a non-SCV carb and go from there?

Much thanks to everyone for the replies! I really appreciate it!:)
 

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At first glance what I see:
The brake booster isn't hooked up. You need to run a vacuum line over to it from that block in the head under the carb.
That dizzy will probably work, but you need to hook it to the same block in the head, not the carb. Then block the hole in the carb.
Where does that extra hose that you keep sitting on top of the carb go to?
The PCV valve in the back of the valve cover looks like it has an extra open port on the top. You need to plug that.
The dizzy's firing order is right. It matches what's cast into the front of the intake log.
If you just got it, it might be a good idea to change the gas filter (that thing screwed into the front of the carb)
The choke tube to the exhaust would help once you get it running longer.
Some people really like running the heater hoses through the carb spacer like they're supposed to be. I've tried it both ways and haven't seen a difference, but it wouldn't hurt to put it back.
I think that might be a later (70s?) head. What's the casting number on the top behind the carb?
Possibly related, it looks like you're missing a bolt in the carb spacer on the inside between the carb and the valve cover. That will probably cause some leaks.
If there are any other vacuum lines laying around you need to make sure you plug them all so you've got a good place to start.

Hope that helps
 

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Discussion Starter #12
At first glance what I see:
The brake booster isn't hooked up. You need to run a vacuum line over to it from that block in the head under the carb.
That dizzy will probably work, but you need to hook it to the same block in the head, not the carb. Then block the hole in the carb.
Where does that extra hose that you keep sitting on top of the carb go to?
The PCV valve in the back of the valve cover looks like it has an extra open port on the top. You need to plug that.
The dizzy's firing order is right. It matches what's cast into the front of the intake log.
If you just got it, it might be a good idea to change the gas filter (that thing screwed into the front of the carb)
The choke tube to the exhaust would help once you get it running longer.
Some people really like running the heater hoses through the carb spacer like they're supposed to be. I've tried it both ways and haven't seen a difference, but it wouldn't hurt to put it back.
I think that might be a later (70s?) head. What's the casting number on the top behind the carb?
Possibly related, it looks like you're missing a bolt in the carb spacer on the inside between the carb and the valve cover. That will probably cause some leaks.
If there are any other vacuum lines laying around you need to make sure you plug them all so you've got a good place to start.

Hope that helps

Ahh sweet! Very helpful info.

Alright, so that line that is sitting on the carb goes to the block on the head. It's marked as the green arrow on the one picture. I will put that into the brake booster.
I will block that hole on top the PCV valve
I will hook the dizzy into the block on the head where the white arrow is. and block the hole in the carb
ima change the gas filter as well
I will also see if I can get the casting numbers on the head.

I will start from here and see how it goes, but by the sounds of it, this carb/dizzy setup is not compatible. So I will end up getting a new carb, but for now, maybe these changes will help narrow down the issues.

I was also wondering about that oil fill cap on the front of the valve cover? It has a janky air filter on it. Does that need to be plugged?

Thank you for the info! I really appreciate it! (y)
 

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I was also wondering about that oil fill cap on the front of the valve cover? It has a janky air filter on it. Does that need to be plugged?
That would have gone to the air cleaner. There are oil breathers without the hose connection.
 

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I think that green hose is the one originally meant to connect to the automatic transmission. It doesn't matter which hose connects to the transmission and which one goes to the brakes, but you do have to make sure one goes down there or it won't shift right.

There are other push on air filters you can get for the valve cover that have the filter inside, but for now that one you have ought to be alright.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Alright cool, so I hooked the green arrow vacuum line to the brake booster. There is already one heading down to the trans. I hooked the dizzy one to the block on the intake. I blocked off the other port on the PCV valve. Blocked the one on the carb. Can't see any more open vacuum lines. It runs a tiny bit better but still not good enough to drive. After a few tries, it will idle. Idled for a couple of mintes then I was going to test drive it and hit the gas and it died than didn't want to go back to idling.
 

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You probably need to take off the air cleaner and make sure that the choke is working.

It's also possible that the carb base plate is leaking air in if it's missing a bolt on the valve cover side like it looks like.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well instead of messing with it, and since I don't know the history of the car. if someone could send a link to a non-SCV carb that would work with this dizzy I would really appreciate it! Awhtx mentioned that coupster recommends one from fleabay that 150$ Does anyone know how I can find that? Thank you!
 

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Well instead of messing with it, and since I don't know the history of the car. if someone could send a link to a non-SCV carb that would work with this dizzy I would really appreciate it! Awhtx mentioned that coupster recommends one from fleabay that 150$ Does anyone know how I can find that? Thank you!
I think this is the carb but I was way off on the price. Sorry about that.

The problem with finding a used Autolite 1100 and rebuilding it is the fact that many of them are simply worn out and they still don't run right after putting a kit in them.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think this is the carb but I was way off on the price. Sorry about that.

The problem with finding a used Autolite 1100 and rebuilding it is the fact that many of them are simply worn out and they still don't run right after putting a kit in them.
Ah, I see. Well, I have done a good bit of reading on fordsix and classics inline. this carb seems to be a good option. Did anyone try it? its a 2v. I will need a 1v/2v adaptor but my concern is that it is too much CFM for my motor. It is rated at 240cfm. Is that too much for a stock motor?

32/36 DGEV PROGRESSIVE CARBURETOR ELECTRIC CHOKE W/DVD ON WEBER DGV CARBS | eBay
 
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