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Discussion Starter #1
I sort of posted this last Thursday but I have more info now. While having some work done last week on the car, I decided to have a local shop install some 620 lb springs. My car has the Shelby 1" drop. After removing the drivers side spring and setting the new 620 lb in, there was about 2" of space between the top of the spring and the the two tabs at the top that hold the spring in place. I drove over to look and let the guy know that he needed to drop the car and it would compress enough to hold the spring in. He disagreed and basically said he did not want to be responsible for the spring popping out as I drove it away. Should I just take it somewhere else or is a 2" gap with no weight on the car normal for 620's? He also said I needed an insulator for the top since mine were basically gone on the old springs. Is the 1/4" or 1" poly or the rubber one the best choice for this?
 

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I have a 67 but I have the same setup: 620s with a 1" drop. When I put the 620s in there (weight off a-arms) I could just set the spring up there on the perch with my hand, there was plenty of room between the top of the spring and the rubber isolator. It settled in just fine when I lowered the car (put the weight on the spring).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
there was plenty of room between the top of the spring
That's what I expected to happen with no weight on the car but I think the guy was just too scared to do it and obviouly had not seen this before. Luckliy, he did not charge me for the time to take the old spring out either. I may take it somewhere else or just do it myself. Thanks.
 

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This is funny, in that we had this exact conversation over lunch Saturday on the VMF Hot August Nights cruise. Personally, I'm with the shop on this one. I've installed 620# 1" lowered springs on 4 different cars (a '65, 2 '66's, and a '69). I have had to use a spring compressor on all 4 to get the springs in, and would be scared to drive a car that I didn't, unless it was on very flat roads at low speeds. We were all in agreement that the only way you should be able to get a spring in without using a spring compressor is if you were to disconnect the spindle to gain more travel in the upper arm.

The shop cannot assume the liability of you going over a bump at a fairly high speed and have the spring come out of it's perch. No, it probably won't happen, but they simply can't take that risk, and neither would I.

There's an intersection near my house that could cause that scenario easily. Before I got used to that intersection and got in the habit of braking through it, I have lifted the front far enough up that a 2" gap could have easily unseated a spring.

IMHO, if you don't have to use a compressor to get the springs in, there's something wrong with your springs.

Oh, and yes, I prefer the poly insulators. 1/4" to retain the drop.
 

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I had a similar discussion when we put the Cal Special back together. (550 springs). It would be a pretty extreem jump for the ol' gal. I don't think SWMBO drives that way. At least when I'm with her ;)
The spring would come off center at the most because of the shock.
Dan
 

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I've done two '66 Mustangs and most of the other cars I've owned. The lowering springs always fit this way. I'm more surprised that johnpro had a different experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, now I am really confused. Some say it is normal and others say don't do it........what to do. I am seriuosly considering chucking the 620's (well actually selling them) putting in Mustang Plus's GT/GT350 springs. They claim firmer than stock but not as firm as 620's. They are designed more like the stock springs but a little firmer. Anyone have any experience with these?
 

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I think that being able to get the springs in without a compressor might be normal (I can get mine in and out, but they have been cut to lower the car). However, I certainly don't have 2 inches of room to spare (maybe more like 1/2 inch or less). I'd say it's worth the piece of mind to fork over the 80 bucks or whatever for some new springs - especially on such a nice car!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Did you have to cut any coils? I am looking to have the car sit just like it does now, flat front to back. I have some tire rub on turns now on the passenger side due to worn out springs so they need to be replaced no matter what.
 

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I have 1" UCA drop and -1" 620 springs (or at least that's what I ordered). When I installed them I needed spring compressors, however, not much only about half of coil wire thickness. The reason I wrote that "(or at least" is that there should be three lengths of 620 springs, because 65-66 have an inch shorter coil length than the later ones. So there should
1) -1" 65-66 spring,
2) standard length 65-66 spring, which is the same length as 67- -1" spring
3) standard length 67- spring.

So I might have number 2 spring.

Poly insulator transmit more shocks and roadnoise to body but last longer than rubber insulators, plus I haven't seen any +1" rubber insulators.
 
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