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So I could either do head gasket replacement or a complete rebuild. Looking around 1700 and 3500 for them. I'm going do rebuild. This baby has never had overhaul. I'm not mechanic but neighbor is and has been doing 30 or 40 years and he's one I trust. So I guess my question is what are the top of line kits or parts for this I should use? I'm driving daily as my regular. Tranny already been rebuilt and it's an auto 260.


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Get a Summit catalogue and go "nutz"!! They have packages or you may be able to piece meal and save a few bucks. Their prices are hard to beat..period!
Personally I would get new pistons with a little more compression. New camshaft with a little more lift and duration.(see above posts) Tell your mechanic the old Ford trick of putting the lft bank pistons on the right and right on the left.(or just install the pistons on your rods with the notch pointing toward the rear) FREE bump in HP and zero problems.
Headers....Edelbrock RPM intake or Wiend intake. 500 CFM Edelbrock carb...new oil pump...re-size your rods and new rod bearings...mains...gaskets the other standard re build stuff.
Should fit well in your upper estimate.
6sally6
 

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I suggest the first step is an honest assessment of what you plan to do with the engine and what characteristics are important to you. For example if you value fuel economy and a smooth running, reliable engine for street use only, a stock rebuild is likely your path.

On the other hand, if you plan to drag race it or open track it, you are likely going to want a significant boost in power. Lost of performance choices out there. And a good mix of compatible engine upgrades is generally more than the sum of its parts.

Just remember the old hot rodder's motto: "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?"
 

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One thing I would add, even if you go the stone-stock rebuild on your F code, it should be carefully detailed and balanced, and do this. It'll run smoother and more efficiently. And have the distributor done to stock specs by the Mustang Barn. I guarantee it needs it.

http://www.mustangbarn.com/PDFs/Port Matching.pdf
 

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I can't offer too much advice, being both new and leaving my 260 as-is. Knowing that I want to leave it as stock as possible, all I did was remove the heads to inspect the cylinder walls, clean things up, and button up with new gaskets. Also replacing the oil pump and water pump.

One game I'm playing is deciding which parts to buy from RockAuto, Amazon, or Advance. Advance runs $40 off $100, so I got the oil pump and some gaskets from them. The rest I got from Rock Auto.

Considering some replacement parts come with gaskets, and the fact that you'll likely want "different" (better) gaskets than what comes in a complete engine kit, I recommend buying them all separately.

I'll be very curious to see your build. "They" say you can't make a ton of power with a 260, so most don't throw too much money at a build. Part of me was hoping my cam would have some wear, so I could justify a little bit bigger one :)
 

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So I could either do head gasket replacement or a complete rebuild. Looking around 1700 and 3500 for them. I'm going do rebuild. This baby has never had overhaul. I'm not mechanic but neighbor is and has been doing 30 or 40 years and he's one I trust. So I guess my question is what are the top of line kits or parts for this I should use? I'm driving daily as my regular. Tranny already been rebuilt and it's an auto 260.


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Save the 260 and bellhousing and install a 302 and 6 bolt bellhousing.
 

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I agree with the above comments about dropping in a 302 if you want more power, and you need to strip down the engine before finding out what you need, BUT.

I have a 260 that has been rebuilt by the PO and it is an awesome motor.
I have all the receipts so I know what went in.
Clevite pistons 60 thou over, ring set, big end bearings, welch plugs, Manley pushrods, camshaft (GT spec), valve lifters, timing chain, and all associated machining required.

This is a basic engine rebuild. I have had not a single issue other than changed a set of points with this engine in 7 years.

I couldn't be happier, love the sound and love the response from the 260.

I'd say just do a standard rebuild with a slightly bigger cam, especially for a driver.
 

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Having just rebuilt a 260 and not getting it running yet I would caution you to think long about that 260. After looking around for a replacement piston, gasket sets and other items I found that 260 parts are getting hard to come by. Most of the shops have graduated on to the 289 and 302 for which there are many parts. It just isn't worthwhile to stock 260 parts any more.
 

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Having just rebuilt a 260 and not getting it running yet I would caution you to think long about that 260. After looking around for a replacement piston, gasket sets and other items I found that 260 parts are getting hard to come by. Most of the shops have graduated on to the 289 and 302 for which there are many parts. It just isn't worthwhile to stock 260 parts any more.
Yeah, poor guy, if he rebuilds the 260 and uses it as a daily driver he might have to rebuild it again in only 20 years. :wink:
 

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$1700 for head gasket replacement? That's a major ripoff and something you can do yourself with minimal knowledge and a few tools.

Watch some YouTube videos and start taking it apart. Take some pictures of the cylinder walls and head surfaces and you may just need a resurface of the heads and new gaskets.


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I agree with happystang. Don't buy anything until you disassemble the engine. Furthermore, don't buy anything until you take the engine components to a good, local machine shop and have them inspected. Then, I would suggest you talk with the machine shop about your objectives and order the parts from that shop. Their prices will likely be similar to online sites like Summit Racing, but they also know what parts work best and what parts to avoid because they're junk.

Likely, the block will require boring, so you'll need new pistons. Use a combination of flat top pistons, decking the block and milling the head to achieve 10:1 static compression. This will go a long way toward adding torque to an already torquey engine. Install a torque cam and, as 22GT suggested, have the distributor calibrated and it will pull like a mule.

I wouldn't even consider a V8 swap. If you want a V8 Mustang, sell your Mustang and buy a V8 Mustang. Nothing wrong with a V8 swap. I just don't see the point when there are plenty of V8 Mustangs around.
 

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+++++1 On GT22! I had MB do my distributor for my 260...perfect! I was fortunate to come into a very well rebuilt 260
for my 64.5 Convert, It is an original F code. Only uptick is a mild stroker cam. It puts out a whopping 174 HP with a 2BBL
carb, and is a dream to drive. Also remember the 260 was somewhat rare, and as a F code car, you will be maintaining
its' originality. Lastly, whatever engine you go with, you need to upgrade to a no lead version!
 

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I agree with happystang. Don't buy anything until you disassemble the engine. Furthermore, don't buy anything until you take the engine components to a good, local machine shop and have them inspected. Then, I would suggest you talk with the machine shop about your objectives and order the parts from that shop. Their prices will likely be similar to online sites like Summit Racing, but they also know what parts work best and what parts to avoid because they're junk.

Likely, the block will require boring, so you'll need new pistons. Use a combination of flat top pistons, decking the block and milling the head to achieve 10:1 static compression. This will go a long way toward adding torque to an already torquey engine. Install a torque cam and, as 22GT suggested, have the distributor calibrated and it will pull like a mule.

I wouldn't even consider a V8 swap. If you want a V8 Mustang, sell your Mustang and buy a V8 Mustang. Nothing wrong with a V8 swap. I just don't see the point when there are plenty of V8 Mustangs around.
What, the 260 doesn't even register on the "V8 Scale" anymore? Come on guy :poke:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Okay guys so here's what I'm going to do! Decided to rebuild as is! Reason being where taking 64 260. The friend that's doing it sends to a guy that's local does his engines then he puts back in. He restores antiques cars for living and I trust him. On a side note I have a 69 mach 1 originally had the 390 in has a 302 in now and I want 390 back in. So I can find matching numbers I just got find a block made in same date as original correct? I was reading they stamp the vin on some cars engines? Odds are the original was blown or someone was stupid and took out.


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I have a 69 mach 1 originally had the 390 in has a 302 in now and I want 390 back in. So I can find matching numbers I just got find a block made in same date as original correct? I was reading they stamp the vin on some cars engines?
Odds are any 390 you look at will have only the date code. Ford's foundry was for some reason very lax about the numbers on FE engines. If you find a correct date, basically anything between one week and two months older than the car, no one would ever know it wasn't original.
 

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Odds are any 390 you look at will have only the date code. Ford's foundry was for some reason very lax about the numbers on FE engines. If you find a correct date, basically anything between one week and two months older than the car, no one would ever know it wasn't original.
I'm not an FE expert, but as I understand it, you could install a 428 and nobody would know the difference.
 

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I'm not an FE expert, but as I understand it, you could install a 428 and nobody would know the difference.


Yea but I'd rather hav the 390 in it. I did research a while back and there is actually less 390 manual shift then cobra jet for this car. My other ones a 69 mach 1. So as far as I understand out of the 3 engines this is the rarest one.


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Yea but I'd rather hav the 390 in it. I did research a while back and there is actually less 390 manual shift then cobra jet for this car. My other ones a 69 mach 1. So as far as I understand out of the 3 engines this is the rarest one.

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Well, yeah. The 390 is the most rare Mach 1 engine option, but it's not the most desirable. The reason it's rare is because the price difference between the 390 and the 428 was minimal. So, most buyers who wanted a big block opted for the 428.
 
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