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Discussion Starter #1
So I'm not sure how big of a issue this is but it doesn't seem right. Last year I finally got my horns to work, was a combination of not having the original type steering wheel and missing the brush contacts. Fast forward to a few weeks ago my godson loves going inside the mustang an pushing the horn, I went to disconnect the batter cause after a few minutes it gets annoying. I noticed smoke coming from both horns I'm not sure if this is normal would like to see if anyone has experienced the same thing
 

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If you have the old style large frame mounted horns, they have a set of contact points inside that will smoke if they are in need of cleaning.
I rebuilt mine as the Horn Guy in Beloit Wisconson couldnt do them, he has no parts. Take them off the car, take the cans off, and clean the
points with a VERY FINE file, like the kind one used to use on ignition points. If you dont have that, use some 220 sandpaper.
Put some lube (NOT WD 40!) around the electromagnet, and let it sit a day or two. When you hook up 12V to the horn, the points may smoke a little at first, but should not after that initial test. Now for the tricky part, there is a adjustment nut, if the horn doesnt sound right or is silent
adjust this nut to move the points closer together, DONT TURN IT MORE THAN ABOUT 1/10th OF A TURN! This adjustment is critical!
When the horn sounds OK...LOUD!!! I use a jam nut to securely lock that setting in. The nut originally had a locking device on it, like a
nylon insert, but once the nut is moved, this is pretty much useless...thus the jam nut. When you get both horns "tuned", this is my favorite part...hook them both up and ask your wife or girlfriend, or both, to come see what you did, hopefully it will be in a small room.
I love those old horns! Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you have the old style large frame mounted horns, they have a set of contact points inside that will smoke if they are in need of cleaning.
I rebuilt mine as the Horn Guy in Beloit Wisconson couldnt do them, he has no parts. Take them off the car, take the cans off, and clean the
points with a VERY FINE file, like the kind one used to use on ignition points. If you dont have that, use some 220 sandpaper.
Put some lube (NOT WD 40!) around the electromagnet, and let it sit a day or two. When you hook up 12V to the horn, the points may smoke a little at first, but should not after that initial test. Now for the tricky part, there is a adjustment nut, if the horn doesnt sound right or is silent
adjust this nut to move the points closer together, DONT TURN IT MORE THAN ABOUT 1/10th OF A TURN! This adjustment is critical!
When the horn sounds OK...LOUD!!! I use a jam nut to securely lock that setting in. The nut originally had a locking device on it, like a
nylon insert, but once the nut is moved, this is pretty much useless...thus the jam nut. When you get both horns "tuned", this is my favorite part...hook them both up and ask your wife or girlfriend, or both, to come see what you did, hopefully it will be in a small room.
I love those old horns! Good luck!
Thanks for the advice that sounds like what's wrong with them.
 
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You never want to let the smoke out of electrical items. The smoke is put in there for a good reason, leave it there :)
 

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LOL....good one! Had an electronics instructor who claimed that all electronics ran on smoke...and if you didn't believe him, just let the smoke out and see if it still worked.
 

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I'm hoping to have my horns working again soon, after changing the steering wheel and all the innards. Wiring harness was replaced a couple years ago during the initial phase of the rebuild. I had to pull the wires from the horns a decade or more ago cuz they went off and wouldn't stop. Never got them fixed back then. Gonna be a surprise for people when they work again.
 
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