Vintage Mustang Forums banner

21 - 40 of 105 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
360 Posts
Rear spring perches from Aftco - the slider style - may be something you want to look at. CA has them.

Very cool build - Love Falcons with attitude.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
I think the rear end setup will be great with the leafs and the panhard bar. I have seen some of the British Falcons in vintage, and the rear suspension/leaf spring setups are very similar you yours, but unlike anything else I have seen for sale in the US.

I will certainly give you feedback. The panhard bar is a tight fit back there between the fuel cell and the diff, but I think it will be the trick to having some adjustability at the track.

Most of my track experience is 6+ years of Lemons and Chump car, where we have actually fabricated suspension parts and put together our own leaf springs. The best part of that racing is literally hundreds of hours of seat time, and I think I have a good feel for handling at the track, albeit with low horsepower RWD cars. This will be my first experience with high horsepower and bias ply RWD in a sprint race format.

I know I am working on a completely different level with great quality suspension parts from C.A., Opentracker, and Maier and look forward to getting to the track in Feb or March. By next summer I hope to field a car in SVRA/VDCA/HSR here in the southeast.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Good stuff! We just had a customer in a Falcon win a rally race in Africa that was 6000 miles long using that same stuff. It should be a good starting point. Drive the heck out of it, Would ya?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #29
After a hiatus of working on another car, and waiting on the engine, I can say that the motor is finally done. I don't do engine work, and the shop was 3 hours away, so progress was slow. I was trying to use my rare 2x4 intake, but ultimately it was too much of a headache for a reliable road race car. A single 4 with a Holley 650 ended up with the best dyno results. Will post the dyno sheets when I get a chance, but we got over 450hp with a 289 block .040 over. It's wound pretty tight, but overall really happy with the results. Worked on fitting the fiberglass doors and fenders this weekend. Now I should be able to make some more headway.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
344 Posts
I usually do not comment and have not in a long while, but I have an affinity for the Vintage Falcon and am compelled in this case.

You may wish to reconsider your main hoop diagonal placement despite the FIA regulation you are referencing.

I would recommend a solid diagonal bar within the same plane of the main hoop, from drivers side top of hoop to passenger side bottom of hoop. Reverse your current diagonal bar which you placed from top of main hoop on passenger side to bottom of drivers side rear brace by placing the upper portion on the drivers side main hoop back to the passenger side rear brace.

Additionally, a diagonal across the roof and an FIA bar on both the drivers and passenger A pillar areas and you will have a more significant anti crush area for your protection in the event you may need it.

Note the main hoop distortion on the right side of this crash and no/less distortion on the left:
http://www.autojournal.cz/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/05.jpg

I am not a structural engineer, but a basic understanding of load paths should be considered in cage design. I guess this is my $0.02.

The vintage road race Falcon is a beautiful car to see, good luck in your build and keep the pics coming.

Henry V
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Here is a 76 Dart we are building for a customer. Cage is built to FIA cert to pass for Pikes Peak as well as Targa.

Racing Pedal Assembly

We installed a Tilton Firewall Mount Pedal Assembly to take care of the brake and clutch pedals in the Dart. The Tilton unit is super robust and up to the task of the races that the owner of this car has planned. The pedal assembly has built in master cylinders for the clutch as well as separate ones for front and rear brakes, allowing us to precisely dial in brake bias.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5552/14928155415_93c1796213_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3873/14927785992_4fd275e2b8_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5579/14905152826_0863ef6428_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3848/14741476950_5d252dfd6b_b.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646442451386/

Steering Column
We wanted to have a car that was easy to steer while driving around the pits, on and off of the trailer, and on a tight autocross track but could also have completely manual steering for higher-speed tracks. So we installed a Unisteer Electronic Power Steering system onto an Iditit tilt-wheel column along with a 2:1 steering quickener. We fabricated both the mount for the column on the dash bar as well as the mount for the quickener itself.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3863/14928184495_5137a0dc84_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5572/14905186696_fefc216097_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3851/14927819852_c50c0bac07_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3923/14742780677_92825794ab_b.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646085990379/

Fluid Reservoirs

Next, we fabricated a mounting bracket for the three Roush fluid reservoirs (Brake, Power Steering, and Clutch) on the engine bay bars.

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5565/14928170625_b6e561f345_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3841/14741499140_4490c271d7_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3881/14741549168_9ce8b93e6a_b.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646483745611/

Bumpers

For the car's bumpers, we needed something that was going to be lighter than the factory steel bumpers but just as strong. We fabricated a tubular bumper out of 1.25-inch (.083-inch wall) tubing and made it mount to the factory bumper mounts. Then we created a fiberglass bumper from the factory unit and riveted the fiberglass piece to the tubular bumper underneath. We did this for both the front and rear bumpers (though we are only showing the front here).

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5587/14741503890_4788beae34_b.jpg
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5573/14741599467_ee8120e176_b.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646084847510/

Interior

We also started work on the interior paneling and accessories. We created the template for the aluminum panels using paper and cardboard. After creating the templates we then transferred them to the aluminum sheet metal and carefully cut out the pieces before tacking them into place inside the car. We also added two battery boxes to the drive shaft tunnel behind the rear seat. The two batteries will eventually be connected through a BUS switch allowing the driver to switch batteries mid-race should one of the primary one go bad. Finally, we added a hydraulic hand brake lever so that the owner can quickly rotate the car on tight rally stages.

https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3902/14925048871_5b61e980de_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3867/14741562007_923a79845d_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3906/14927769042_df07af1139_b.jpg
https://farm4.staticflickr.com/3864/14905136916_3ed9aab8ae_b.jpg

https://www.flickr.com/photos/hotchkis/sets/72157646085843329/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,657 Posts
I just love this build. Brings nice nice memories of my first days attending SCCA races when I was in H.S(mid 60's). to watch neighbor race Lotus 7 (Vineland, NJ). There was a sprinkling of Falcons competing back then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Finally off to the body shop

Test fitted the engine, bellhousing, headers. Welded the trim holes.
A couple of cage modifications, bumpers, welded the dash. Now to the body shop for about 6 weeks.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
79 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
Painfully waiting on better weather and I finally have a coat of paint on, but I wanted to post some of the bellhousing/clutch pics. Clutch is a Spec Stage 3+ with an aluminum flywheel. The Lakewood housing is a 6 bolt, and the headers, Z bar, fork, and starter were made to fit a 5 bolt, so I knew there would be some clearance issues. I only needed to notch the bellhousing slightly. Two minor grinds for the headers and a notch for the Z bar. I clocked the starter downward for header clearance and test-fitted a T10.
 

Attachments

21 - 40 of 105 Posts
Top