Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok folks, we've seen the opinions, we've heard the bs... here's a realistic journal of an auto to T5 conversion. I'm going to include pics and suggestions.
First, regardless of what you think, this is NOT a simple weekend project going auto to manual. Second, I don't even think its a weekend project going 3-4spd to T5 manual.
I'm doin this without a lift or background, so this is a true hands on experience.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Ok, let's get started. Put my 66 up on stands cuz I had to rebuild the steering box anyway. 6 yrs if autocross has taken its toll and its time to rebuild the box. Ive had a set of modified peddles and a rebuilt WC T5 sitting next to my bench for about a year. Racing is done for the season, now a good time to pull the built C4 and drop in the overdrive, though ill have to completely relearn autocross with a manual.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Ok, pulled my seats and steering column in preparation for this effort. If you notice closely there is a hole (bolt) just below my wiring bulkhead. This is a factory hole below the harness. From what I can gather, this is either the fog light or wiper pump wiring passthrough. This hole completely counters the MDL instructions.
773064
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
The great news, MDL drilled multiple holes in the backing plate that allows you to deal with this. Good job MDL! So, instead of setting bolts at 1 & 7 o'clock, I placed at 11 & 5 o'clock (looking from inside the firewall).
773065
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Next, MDL only studs the engine compartment side of the spacer plate. My suggestion, stud both sides of the spacer, you won't fight it so much trying to get it in place. Simple hardware studs do the job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Next issue, the side loading of the pivot points. You can go back and visit multiple complaints in this forum of the side loading of the bracket and swivels in the MDL design. Understandably looking at it, it was fairly obvious. If you notice I added copper shims in the upper swivel, not as a shim, but rather limit the lateral movement.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Once in place the entire pedal and assembly move precisely forward and back. MDL instructions say to drill and set from inside the engine compartment. I differ. Once drilled you're stuck with your mounting points which probably adds to the long term problems. I approached it from inside the cabin to insure the mechanism aligns with the pedal movement to insure all movement was aligned. Also if you look closely, the vertical bend in the firewall is a perfect vertical reference line to mount the inner plate.
773071
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Now the part they don't tell you, reworking your brake lines. I had to move ALL my brake lines to the master cylinder. Simple bending and moving doesn't cut it if you want to do it correctly. At this point, my brake lines, distro block, and proportioning valve are set, new lines run, and system bled. Pedals are in place. Pedals have been modified with stops and bearings. Im 4 days into this effort and think I've got another 4 or 5 in front of me. Next chapter ill be dropping the exhaust, driveline, and C4 in preparation for the clutch and pressure plate portion of the install.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Lessons learned up to this point. Have your manual pedal assembly ready, bearings and all. Remove your steering column and seats to helps with upgrade. Stud both sides of the MDL spacer if you're working alone, it'll eliminate headaches. Next, work and drill from inside the cabin rather than the engine compartment to insure accurate pedal alignment. Next, aluminum brake lines are absolutely beneficial. Stainless steel lines look "perty" but the damage to the brass male flare fittings are obvious. More to come.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
I just did a complete mdl swap my self same setup your using went smoothly and I have pictures of everything if you need help Mine side loads the opposite way so I need to figure out how to deal with that will post pictures tomorrow I don’t want it failing got any ideas
AD09EF9F-54B5-444E-8C34-6AACEE5D218F.jpeg
773076
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
56 Posts
Bleeding the clutch was a breeze for me just uses there bleeder like 6 times waste of fuild but it worked if you think ur done do it one more time if you need any help let me know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I'll try to explain it as best i can.. The way I see it...to limit the lateral movement is to align the pivot points perfectly perpendicular to each other. In other words don't allow the arms to move laterally. I added copper washers to both sides of the upper rod end so it can't pivot left/right. I was able to limit the lateral movement to .020 yet have very smooth forward/aft movement. MDL provided 3 spacer washers to move the upper pedal rod end left or right. I then set the lower arm in the bracket and centered the upper rod end to that lower arm as it pushes the arm forward/aft. Clear as mud. I used my fat fingers to mock up a pic. My bracket is perfectly parallel to the firewall seam, and the horizontal arm is perfectly parallel to the seam and the bracket. Now it was a matter of moving the upper pedal rod end left/right using the washers to line up the push rod to the horizontal arm. It takes time, and fit, and re-fit, to get it aligned.
773097
 

·
Registered
1966 65A K 22, soon to be v8 swapped
Joined
·
62 Posts
Glad to see this thread as I am in the middle of a MDL T5 with hydraulic clutch install.

So far I am still building my pedals with roller bearings and have stripped down the engine bay and interior which will help with access and room to work. This is part of a winter v8 swap so I’ve got plenty of time.

My 66 firewall does not have that extra hole under the bulkhead electrical connector.



Looking forward to see how the OP gets on and to hear the things to look out for.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
You're lucky regarding the lack of that extra hole. I was beating my head trying to figure out how to deal with it because drilling new holes would have weakened my firewall. Yep, get your pedals ready now, and consider adding adjustable stops to both pedals. If you look close theres a stop on my brake pedal preventing it from retracting too far, and a stop for my clutch pedal to prevent from over compressing the clutch mc. The clutch stop slides on the existing firewall bolts and then bolts down. Hopefully that'll give you some ideas.
773228
 

·
Registered
1966 65A K 22, soon to be v8 swapped
Joined
·
62 Posts
@groho, appreciate the tip on pedal stops. The clutch stop looks easy enough but I am not seeing the brake pedal stop very well. Did you take a picture of the pedal assy before you installed it? I am putting in a Wilwood brake manual MC and have not started researching the installation of that yet, however it makes sense that I may need to limit the piston travel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
There's a hole in the top of the brake pedal where a stationary factory stop goes. Simple weld in a nut in it place. I cut the head off a bolt and then cut a slot in it.
773298
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Ok..productive day...really like the way I set this car up taking into consideration parts were gonna be R&R. Got the entire drive train out in 2 hrs. (And found the dripping oil leak at the back of the pan)
773299
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
858 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Time for a cold one...next step, the area between the tape needs to be removed and reinforced. My C4 was out early this year for repair; grenaded the pump. During that time i mocked up the T5. I discovered because my coupe is lowered it was necessary to raise the C4 tranny 1/2" to compensate driving angle. At the same position the T5 case just hits the support. You make out the point where the top of the T5 case was hitting the support. Note to self...don't torch the interior when welding the support. If you're running a stock height this step probably isn't necessary.
773300
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts
Top