After a night's sleep and some serious thinking I thought it best to pull my fuel tank before doing any welding; patch and tranny rear support. Again, I put this car together to make R&R easy... trick...go to your local industrial rubber shop, pick up some 1/8-3/16 rubber roll 36x36". Cut a gasket to fit your tank, you'll never have to clean sticky tape again and getting your tank out takes 5 min, 15 min if you have to drain it.
That extra rubber will not go to waste, I promise you.
Welded in the suppprt plate with help from my awesome wife. Again, did I mention how much I hate welding laying on my back?
I suppose you're wondering how I accomplished this without torching my interior. A bucket of ice water, a couple of rags, and my wife keeping the interior cool as I welded. It worked so well it didn't even melt the dynamat. If you're going to do this, please use a second set of eyes/hands.
A week of work has finally got me to the point where I can start installing the flywheel/clutch, to be followed by the tranny and hydraulics. Ya right...this is a weekend job.
This press plate, clutch install was incredibly smooth. Scrambling to locate a new pivot ball to replace a damaged ball I overlooked was the hardest part of the day.
Confession time...I've never done a clutch before. I've built rear ends, motors, auto trans, complete electrical, and interiors, but never had a need to install a clutch/trans. Preparation has really helped. Pilot, flywheel & PP all lined up, and looks like I have less then 1/4" of rear fork clearance. Gonna pull the bell tomorrow and do some final checks before throwing in the trans and start fab'ing the crossmember.
If your wondering whats up with the clutch fork pivot point, thats actually a rod end I welded to the fork; pull a pin and it disconnects from the slave cylinder, completely adjustable on the slave cyl push rod.
Question for the group. This is a centerforce aluminum flywheel and DF clutch, press plate set up. CF included 3 alignment pins for the flywheel, but i couldn't find a single slot, or location where they would seat and align with the PP. Are the pins required? Other then that, everything bolted up and aligned perfectly.
To dowel or not to dowel? The mock-up went perfect but was scratching my head regarding the the flywheel dowels.
This is the PP bolt and flywheel dowel locations for Centerforce setup. Very clear what goes where.
Same pic with the PP in place. As you can see, dowels do not align with the flywheel points. Glad I didn't install them, heard there a B to remove once they're pressed in. In this case, the Centerforce DF clutch and aluminum flywheel uses the 6 collared PP bolts to align & center the PP.
CF wasn't specific in their instructions, so double check your work to answer the question "To dowel or not to dowel?"
And didn't need to clearance the shifter. Correction...Im using a short shifter with stops. The pic doesn't show the top of the shifter plate. A factory T5 shifter should clear the stock shifter hole, but this after market piece is twice the size. I do need to trim the floor shifter ring to clear the upper plate of the after market shifter.
Wanted to point this out, header clearance is critical. I have Doug Thorley headers for a C4 and they state this is not for a manual trans. I can tell you they WILL fit with a T5 and clear the fork movement as long as you use a hyd slave cylinder o hyd throw-out bearing. You might have to trim the factory cable pull a little.
Everyone is probably wondering why cut the tunnel support with a T5? Cuz, when your 65 66 is lowered this is what happens. The top of the T5 shift rod is half way up into that vacated support. If your car is not lowered, this is a step you can avoid.
Ohh...and a check at the output shaft showes exactly 3 degrees down, which is where it should be. The previous mockup months ago showed the best I could achieve with the T5 all the way up against the uncut stock support was 4.5 degrees down.