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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Just recieved my non-concours Waldron Arvinode exhaust system (through valance exhaust) and can't wait to get it installed, but have an installation question. Yes, I did look at old post and did not see an answer.

1) I recall reading, that 65/66 cars that did NOT have the exhaust exits that go through the rear valance, do not have some sort of bracket or holes in the rear frame rails beside the gast tank that is a PITA to drill or install correctly. WIth that said, how have you or others supported the Waldron Arvinode exhaust pipe in that area?

2) Waldron stated that my exhust will fit a convertible. WIll the exhaust install above of below the center plate?

3) Weld or clamp? Ordered clamps, thought it would be easier to work on or around the transmission in the future if needed.

4)Any advise from members that have installed this system to a person who is about to install this system?

The system is boxed up in the garage, can't wait to start installing it this weekend.

Thanks for your help in advance!


Sean
 

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FLY please up date this post as to how the install went with pictures if you can do that and what issues you had with the install...
 

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There are a few things that are important to remember. First, a cheap install shop will weld a bolt to the frame and sandwich the end of a strap metal mount welded to the pipe between two rubber washers and think this is an insulator. It is NOT. You simply must have rubber hangers that are a minimum of 1-2" longish. Look at the way modern cars are mounted, that is what you want or the vibrations will go through the frame and into the interior. it makes a big difference. Get the rear tailpipe out from under the car by 2 inches, this is easy because the valence in the back tucks down under - you want the sound out from under the car, it won't change how badasp you car sounds it will get the rumble out from under the car which resonates into the interior.

NEVER step down in pipe size after a muffler. ALl these things help with the dreaded 2k drone - pay attention or pay on the freeway...
 

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@Fly2xs I'm planning on the same thing for my 66 vert in a month or two. So I'll be watching this thread closely. Although I am no help at this point, can you post some pics of the install and any issues you had? This thread would be great for other members like me.
 

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Hopefully, someone (22GT) may offer a pic of a similar install in a cvt. as it pertains to the intermediate pipes running under or above the tie plate. Ditto the use of factory hangers. My approach, absent any pics or advice from our members, I would say to place the hangers in the factory locations then "mock up" the system and see where the pipes and mufflers will naturally be placed relative to the body.
Personally, if possible, I'd run the intermediate pipes between the body and tie plate not below. If only to increase your ground clearance.
 

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1: You may be thinking of a crush tube in the rear frame rail for GT exhaust. It is there so when the bolt and nut are tightened it doesn't collapse the frame rail. Plenty of people have done it without the tube so I guess if you just mind your torque while doing it. Maybe use one of the nuts with a plastic insert so it wont vibrate off without having to crank it so tight. (My '66 A code non-GT has the tubes, maybe you are so lucky:)) If the holes are not on the drivers side I would weld the hanger on the rail but man its scary welding even within 5 feet of the gas tank to me.

2: Should be above the plate and its gonna be a tight fit.

3: Clamping is very common these days for the reason you state. I did a clamp system and used the exhaust putty, zero leaks and adjustable for a short time. That stuff set up like super glue/concrete but some of the pieces were near impossible to get apart and ruined some joints separating them so it might as well have been welded. A bunch of clamps look a bit cheesy though. Tough call.

4: Nope

I haven't found any real tech specs about it, I have my own theories about this exhaust. Will you measure the length of the resonator sections and describe or take a pic of what is happening inside of them?
Good luck
 

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I've used high quality band clamps in a number of exhaust applications with no sealants. The bands tightened before and crushed after the seam, thus, closing off any potential leak.Yes, iy do make for an easy disassembly down the road. I'll dig one out for a "show'n tell" pic.
 

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2) Waldron stated that my exhust will fit a convertible. WIll the exhaust install above of below the center plate?

3) Weld or clamp? Ordered clamps, thought it would be easier to work on or around the transmission in the future if needed.
For number 2: on my father's 68 convertible the exhaust system fit inside the center plate. I don't know if it will be the same for the 65/66 system.

For number 3: we MIG welded the system. MIG welds are pretty easy, and they look clean on the exhaust system under the car. I have a flat bill clamp for my welder that will accommodate exhaust pipes so it is very easy to ground the pipes when welding. When I was younger (17) and was "restoring" my 1968 fastback I clamped the exhaust modifications I had made. It seemed to work fine, and at the time I didn't have access to a MIG welder. The biggest concern I had was that the clamps looked ugly. I didn't own the car long enough for the joints to leak or fail.
 
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