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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, thanks for the comments on my master cylinder problem. I broke down and wnet to Kragens and purchased a rebult m/c for $25.00 (the mustang catalogs were charging 69.00 for a rebuilt m/c!) The rebuilt unit did NOT come with the push rod installed. The pushrod had a clip on the end which hold it into place in the m/c. This is a 67-70 manual brake m/c. Anyway, I compared the 67 and 65 pushrods and the 65 is one inch longer.

So, after benchbleeding the m/c, I installed it, with the rubber boot on it in the back but no pushrod. Once installed, I put the 65 push rod in and hooked it up to the brake pedal. Oh my, it works. My pedal is where it is supposed to be, when the brakes are engaged, strong firm pedal, short stoppign distance. FINALLY, it works. I purchased a 5.99 m/c bleeding kit from the help aisle of Kragens. It worked perfectly. It has plastic fittings of various sizes to scerew into the m/c, plus a clip that clips on to the divider between the two reservoirs and holds the hoses down into the reservoirs. After you bench bleed, you leave the kit installed then install the m/c.

I unscrewed the plastic piece on one reservoir and immediately lined up the solid line and started the fitting. Fluid dripped down through the line, which was good, and came out the other end as I started it into the dist. block. Apparently, this purged the air out of the solid line cause after I installed the two solid lines to the dist. block, I did NOT have to bleed the brakes! WOW.

Now I am fiddling with my electrical. It appears that my lightswitch has to be replaced. Everything dead on the car is something that is fused off of a 12 amp fuse located inside the light switch! I'll replace the light switch and brake light switch and see if things start working again. I replaced the flasher unit and now the unit clicks, but the lights don't blink. The fuse in the headlight controls the parking lights, stop lights, horn, license plate light, none of which are working on the car. I did find where three hot wires were spliced together and left UNTAPED. The bare wires were grounding against the dash. Now that they are taped, I might have better luck with lighting. I'll get a new light switch and cross my fingers!
 

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Good to hear you conquered the brake problem. The roads are now safe for the rest of us again.
 

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I don't feel safe until he fixes his electrical problems!!! The untaped wires sounds like a major short/electrical fire about to happen. Hopefully, he fixed that up....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yup, they are taped, but you won't believe what happened - the engine is ? see new post water/oil mixed and leaking all over intake - 6 cylinder
 

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If you buy a new Wagner it comes with the pushrod and boot. You can get one of these from the Mustang vendors or O'Reillys or anyone selling Wagner brake parts. Note the catalog shows (with pushrod) so order that one. I believe you can also order it for $5 less without the pushrod and boot. To get the pushrod and boot after purchase requires buying a rebuild kit.
 
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