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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just purchaced this car. It is an A code 4spd. Blue with white int. Has not moved in 25yrs. It has been rusting away since 82. The front and rear frame rails seem solid. Both outer frame rails are completely rusted away (gone). Both doors will open if you give it all you got. I guess this is from outer frame rail problem. Both quarters are rusted through and stuffed with bondo. Doors and fenders are also rusted through in small places. The floor pan has been replaced but is rusted through again. Looks like the newer rusted pan is sitting on top of what was left of the origional one. Help, this will be my first restoration. Joe in SC
 

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Sounds like you've picked a real challenge for your first! But you broke the rules here on your fifth post by talking about a car you just bought WITHOUT POSTING PICTURES!! :lol:
 

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Sounds like your rockers (outer frame) are shot. This is why the doors are difficult. Take care of that when you do the floors, and anything else you find when you're in there. Starting with structure is the best place to begin. Then go to mechanical and cosmetic.
 
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You will need a welder, lots of money, patience and no wife and kids to complete this project. J/K of course. How are the rockers? I am betting this might also be contributing to your "sag" which makes the doors hard to open
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Oh. Those are called rockers. They are gone. Too depressed to take pictures after car arived last night. I took welding classes 14yrs ago. What type of welder will i need? Where should I buy parts? Thanks for you help, Joe
 

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Welcome to the forum.
+1 for the pics!
As far as the vert, well, it nice to know it's all repairable. :thumbup:
Don't get discouraged - when you do, a little break courtesy of a "special" little fridge in the garage is always a cool idea...
Carefully plan out your project, prudently set a budget, and then be prepared to blow it (ask me how I know...) It's all part of the fun! ;)
 

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I recommend you seek some help from your local Mustang club. There is usually at least one person that has done something this big, or at least folks who can keep the encouragement coming when you need it.

Fill out your profile so we know where you're at.

How did you find the car; did you buy it sight unseen (pics only)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Great idea on the local club. Yes I was stupid enough to buy from picks only. But I do see this can be an awesome car soon. How do I update my personal info and add pics? Thanks, Joe in Columbia, South Carolina
 

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Where in SC are you? We have a few members here that live in SC.

I must say this... you've definitely jumped in with both feet.

The damage you've briefly described is not something to take lightly or underestimate. Not to scare you, but you'll probably end up replacing every piece of metal on the car.

Don't think that this will be a few months and off to the paint booth. Unless you're retired and financially stable, this car will take some time to get back together.

If I were you, I'd find a classic Mustang guy who knows his $hit to walk through the car with you before you do anything.

Next up would be to locate/build a rotisserie and buy some factory shop manuals.

It's important with a convertable that the car doesn't fold in half.... if the rockers and floors are shot, and the doors barely open, it sounds like it's getting ready to.... what's holding it together? Probably not much more than the transmission tunnel. Don't open the doors unless you have to. You'll want to buy/build some door braces that will mount between the front of the door (A pillar) and the rear of the door (C pillar). With the bars installed you can safely remove the doors.

This is going to be a long, long ride.

Dave
 

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Sounds like from your other post that you just bought it on Ebay. If it was recent it will still be listed. Did it have pictures? What was the auction number? Was it from a dealer? Maybe others can look at the pics and help you determine what problems you have.

Good luck
JBauer4363
 

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Joe Burns said:
Great idea on the local club... How do I update my personal info and add pics? Thanks, Joe in Columbia, South Carolina
Plus 1 on the local club. To add your personal data click "My Home" upper left corner and then "Control Panel" .
To add pactures see Here
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It was on ebay a couple of weeks ago. The auction # was 330181755243. The pictures were not good and they did not show the rust or the bottom of car. There was even no mention of rust or doors stuck.
 

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I know it sucks that it is rusty but, $4650 aint a bad price for how it looks. Ive seen worse for that kind of money. At least you didnt pay real big money for it. Being a V8 4 spd car, got a rally pack, once you get it fixed up it will be worth some money. Learn howm to weld or you could probably put it back on Ebay and get your money back.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...=1&coentrypage=search&fvi=1&item=330181755243




Good luck
JBauer4363
 

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Well... the good news is that this car when finished will be worth every bloody knuckle sustained. Acode 4Spd Restored '64 verts are not cheap cars.

The bad news is that the photos were very deceiving. Did you overpay? Probably not. Even in this condition the car is probably worth what you paid (thus the other bidders). The seller stated the car needs "full restoration". This should have been a warning sign for things to come.

It's going to be A LOT of WORK to bring this back to even driveable condition though. $12-15k in replacement parts (non concours restoration), another $5k in paint/farmed out labor, and 2-3 years of work if you get started now and don't sit down on front of the TV, ever.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thats the best news if heard in 24 hrs. Any Idea what a full restoration like this would cost if I did it my self or found a pro who could? Where should I get all the sheat metal from? Virginia Mustang?
 

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Yep, went back and I somehow missed it. '65 it is. Would have been nicer to have it a 64.5, but still a fair deal.

National Parts Depot 9Charlotte) will have just about everything you'll need parts wise. Order it before 9AM and UPS guy is usually dropping it off tomorrow.

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just ordered 2 catelogs from NPD. One for my stangs and one for the 50 f2. Thanks. What kind of welder should I buy?
 

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110 volt 135 amp GAS (argon). There's nothing thicker than 1/4" on these cars and the little units work great. You've got a bit of work ahead of you before you need to plug in the welder though. The car needs to be completely stripped of every removeable item. Each item should be bagged and tagged no matter how insignificant. It could be a couple years before you're looking at some of these removed items and you WILL forget where half of them belong. When I'm "tagging parts", I go one step further and save myself some headscratching later on. Instead of just throwing the three screws for the rearview mirror in a bag marked "mirror screws", take it one step further and write "rearview mirror screws, 2 forward ones (long), rear one (short). Draw crude pictures and write notes to yourself on the tags. Little details like this can be lifesavers 4 years from now. Don't use a pencil to write with. Use an indelible ink marker that won't fade.

I can't say enough about NPD. I have them on speed dial and most of the Charlotte guys know me fairly well. Easy return policy. If in doubt, buy it, if you don't need it, simply return it for a refund.

I won't buy anywhere else unless absolutely necessary. NPD will price match other vendors for comparable products, but rarely are they undersold so it's mostly a non-issue.

F200? I'm in the market for a fairly close to done (if not completely done) '56F100. Keep your eyes peeled at the local level.

Dave
 
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