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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I've made a short introduction in new members and now I'm ready to start the documenting the update of my 65 Coupe barn find. I'm going to refer to it as "Orange Peel" because it has the Poppy Red paint code and I'm sure with my paint skills there will be some.

The plan for Orange Peel is:

  • Repair/replace sheet metal where needed
  • Add torque boxes
  • Repaint to original color
  • Update the suspension
  • New wire harnesses
  • Restore the interior
  • Add some performance items to the 289
  • Have fun

I'm just getting started and have no urgency to get it done (retired), so it may take a while. I'm getting ready to pull the engine and do far haven't found anything too concerning.
 

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Here's a little unsolicited advice, and it is the best advice ever for anyone about to undertake a comprehensive mustang rebuild.

VMF member 22GT advised: "Don't throw ANYTHING away until the job is done".

I didn't know that was a good idea when I started mine over ten years ago, but I sure wish I had. I can't tell you how many times I got to a point and suddenly realized if I had only saved that totally decrepit, rusted, mangled (insert item name) I could have used it for KNOWLEDGE and EXAMPLE later on.
Welcome to VMF! :smile2:
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cool, thanks for the advice! The plan is to keep all the original stuff until it becomes a burden or sell it when I know I won't need it. I may rebuild the engine accessories and master cylinder and call it good. I know there were a lot of these made so other than being a classic '65 Mustang this car isn't anything special, I plan to change that.
 

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They're ALL special !! They're over 50 years old and it takes love and labor to save them from a rusty grave, preserve them, and enrich young people's minds and hearts to be their caretakers when we are gone. That car was probably more than just transportation, maybe someone's first car (like me), what got them to work for years (me again), what they left their wedding and honeymooned in (guess who) and brought their kids home from the hospital, daycare, and school, even vacationed in (yep, me). And it survived this long because someone cared enough to keep a memory alive or make a few dollars helping someone else get started haha !!
CoNgRaTuLaTiOnS !! See you at the cruise-in.
 

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Here's a little unsolicited advice, and it is the best advice ever for anyone about to undertake a comprehensive mustang rebuild.

VMF member 22GT advised: "Don't throw ANYTHING away until the job is done".

I didn't know that was a good idea when I started mine over ten years ago, but I sure wish I had. I can't tell you how many times I got to a point and suddenly realized if I had only saved that totally decrepit, rusted, mangled (insert item name) I could have used it for KNOWLEDGE and EXAMPLE later on.
Welcome to VMF! :smile2:
I will second this. My wife kept bugging me about the pile of old parts I had sitting but I made trips out there multiple times over a span of several years. I was taking measurements of original mounting locations, screw holes, used the old gas tank to line up trunk floor, and even went back and cut off a couple brackets that weren't included on replacement parts (and measured where to put them).
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I have the shop manual, but it doesn't show the KH prop valve or the plumbing. The car does have front disc brakes but this valve wasn't being used, the brake lines are run through this. I'm far from reassembly, but can someone show the correct routing?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got the engine out, found that it has been rebuilt once before. If it hadn't I was going to be easy on it, but now I'm going to wake it up with some performance parts. Ordered $400 worth of repair panels and torque boxes from cjpp.


Note to self: next time leave car outside a few days to allow critters to escape.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Self etching primer

Greetings...


I cut 39 spot welds of the RH inner fender (with my NAPA cutter which is a great tool if you use a little oil) for replacement and noticed the lack of corrosion protection from the factory at the lap. I'm plan to use Dupli-Color self etching primer but had concerns about what would be left of the primer after welding. So I welded up a test coupon then drilled it apart to see what it looked like between the panels. I was satisfied that I will have 100% more corrosion protection than when it left the factory.


In the radiator support you can see pits of corrosion too deep to sand out. Would aluminum oxide blast to be enough to stop this or should I cut that section out?


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Orange Peel Update:

Greetings

I've got Orange Peel down to the shell and have been busy with the passenger side floor pan and torque box. I replaced the right inner fender first and then cut and fitted the torque box at the same time.

I found something interesting when inspecting the shell. Two photos show a plug at the master cylinder mounting location. I don't know if this was factory or someone tried to seal this hole, but it has a gap that must let water in the passenger compartment. I'm assuming it should be welded closed.

The frame rails look good on right side, we'll see how the left rails look.

In the cowl photos you can see the remnants of a rat nest, any way to clean the cowl enough to look decent without removing?
 

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That plug is the knock out for the clutch in manual cars. Should be just fine the way it is! Looks like you're progressing nicely.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Greetings to all

Man time flies when life gets in the way of a project!

Here's the driver side floor going in, I learned how to do this on the passenger side and it went much easier.
736448



Ready to modify with the Arning drop, here's my jig with some 3/16" drill bushings installed. If someone needs it, let me know and I'll give it to them when done.
736449


With the car stripped I had to convince the export brace to line up, when it did the body came off of one the stands. I got out a 36" level to check twist with front to rear cross member.
736450


Level being held against rear cross member, hard to see but the car leans equally to driver side. It appears that there is no twist in the body.
736451
 

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Nice California V8 car with disc brakes. Looks like you have your work cut out, but you are making incredible progress. Are you keeping with the automatic or changing over to a manual? Have you considered adding a single piece export brace and subframe connectors to compliment your structural upgrades?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The car really isn't that bad considering some I've seen here in the south. My dad had a nice '63 Futura with a 260 4 speed back in late 60's so that's what I was looking for when I ran across this car. I found a Futura but it needed a lot of attention. I might may look at a GT40P setup as I progress instead of a rebuild for the 289 and keep the auto. I have the one piece export brace installed while I weld up the torque boxes and considered these http://store.uscartool.com/65-66-mustang-floor-contoured-frame-connectors.html but I haven't decided.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hello readers, I've made a little progress with the '65 by completing the arning/shelby drop holes, a couple floor panels welded, conversion to dual exhaust started and cutting metal for lower quarter repair. I'm going to see if I can cut the rust out of the flare and rebuild instead of a panel skin, I can always get one if it doesn't work out.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Greetings,

I've been able to spend more time in the shop and have made a little more progress toward getting this back on the wheels. I finally got the torque boxes welded in and started to clean up the engine compartment getting it ready to paint. While was working on the quarter lowers I cleaned the trunk area of mounds of old brittle sealer; I was happy to see very little rust at the inner fender flanges.
 

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