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Discussion Starter #1
I’m in the midst of a 65 Coupe restoration and am having extreme difficulty re-installing the rear window after a new paint job. The window is original. I’ve put in new molding clips and am using a new rubber weatherstrip from Scott-Drake purchased from CJPony. The front window went in no problem with plenty of room between the weatherstrip and the clips. But the back window refuses to go in without covering the clips on one side. Tried twice and no go and yes the window was centered perfectly. I can get the window in on the pinch weld so that the molding clips on the top, bottom and driver side are exposed but then the clips on the passenger side are buried under the weatherstrip with no way to get the weatherstrip under those clips. I’ve now ripped the weatherstrip trying to fix the problem so have to order another one, liking one different than the Scott-Drake version.

Used the typical installation technique with the rope which is fairly straightforward, but there just doesn’t seem to be enough space to seat the window down and inside all the molding clips. I notice there are plenty of videos around showing a front window installation, but curiously none for the back window. I wonder if I’m not the only one with this problem. Perhaps it has to do with the weatherstrip itself being too thick. Could be the user is too thick :smile2:

I have heard of the installation being done by inserting just the weatherstrip alone on the pinch weld and then placing the glass into its channel, but that sounds awfully hard to do. It’s hard enough getting the glass into the weatherstrip beforehand when it’s off the car!

Do you have any experience or recommendations that might provide some relief?

Many thanks for your help.

Victor
Punta Gorda, Florida
 

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We just did my 65 coupe rear glass- I installed the glass into the weatherstrip then put the bottom of the w/s in the pinchweld- from there it took two of us (one pulling the rope and one outside putting pressure on the glass. It didn't seat on the upper channel (covering the clips) but with two of us focusing on the area we were able to manage to get it seated. It was a tough seat- and made worse with the 3m window glue stuff (you did tape up the car and everything you could - I hope- as I would have had that crap all over everything if I didn't)

I am making the assumption no changes were made to the window opening- and as stated glass was original and fit before.
 

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From all the discussion on this site regarding window front and rear rubbers you should buy ONLY Daniel Carpenter or Steele Rubber Products window rubbers. I used to work at a glass shop back in the 80's and have installed plenty of these windows by myself with the method as dzahm described. I've also done plenty by installing the rubber on the pinch weld then installing the glass. All depends on the car. I've never filled my rubber gaskets with sealer before laying the glass in either; waaaaay too messy for my liking. I've had good results just applying the bedding compound after the glass is in. Check out NPD for Daniel Carpenter weatherstrip or Steele Rubber Products. @patrick has used and highly recommends Steele. I think they've been in the hobby for a while.
 

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It was a tough seat- and made worse with the 3m window glue stuff (you did tape up the car and everything you could - I hope- as I would have had that crap all over everything if I didn't)
I never put the Glass Bedding Compound in until after the glass is installed. Work with the clips installed first. After the glass is installed, I pump sealant in between the glass and rubber, then fill the gap between the rubber and channel. Force the sealant in. Install the moulding immediately.
 

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I didn't install my glass myself but the installer had a similar problem with the SD window molding and actually cracked the front glass trying to put it in. I told him about the Carpenter brand rubber. He returned the rear rubber, bought a new Carlite windshield and Carpenter rubber. He didn't have any problems that I know of after that.
 

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From all the discussion on this site regarding window front and rear rubbers you should buy ONLY Daniel Carpenter or Steele Rubber Products window rubbers. I used to work at a glass shop back in the 80's and have installed plenty of these windows by myself with the method as dzahm described. I've also done plenty by installing the rubber on the pinch weld then installing the glass. All depends on the car. I've never filled my rubber gaskets with sealer before laying the glass in either; waaaaay too messy for my liking. I've had good results just applying the bedding compound after the glass is in. Check out NPD for Daniel Carpenter weatherstrip or Steele Rubber Products. @patrick has used and highly recommends Steele. I think they've been in the hobby for a while.

I noticed you said that you have installed the windows by yourself. Did you use the suction cups to keep the "pressure" on the window. Was considering trying this myself.
 

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No, just just set it in the bottom pinch weld first, make sure the rubber is fully seated at the bottom and then pull a little rope at a time and get back outside the car and tap the glass down a little with the full palm of my hand. Then climb back inside and work at the ropes and repeat until it's in all the way. Just take your time, work the rope like you are rolling it in a circular motion like skipping as you gently pull it around the corners. Don't try to go all the way around with the same rope end. Do it a little with 1 end then switch to the other end, back and forth until it's in.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Dzahm and Caper50, that's exactly how we tried to install, but we just could not get that sucker to sit down so that the molding clips were all exposed. Tried it twice and same result - way too tight. I'm inclined to agree with Caper50 that not all weatherstrips are created equal. I'm convinced the Scott-Drake version is too bulky (as per tom991) because the body shop guy I'm working with said he's done plenty of these window installs and has never seen one so tight as this. Just to clarify, I didn't use any caulking strips or caulk in the glass channel, so that's definitely not the problem. Can't imagine how much tighter and difficult it would be if I had done that. Body shop says there's no need for caulk in that channel (only need it around the rubber that meets the pinch weld on the outside and then on the outside of the glass and the weatherstrip). Many differing opinions on that one. BTW Mike, we also did use suction cups to apply pressure. And no changes were made to the opening from which the original glass was removed. Same glass and opening which fit before.
Body shop is ordering different weatherstrip and will give it another go. Just lucky the glass hasn't broken with all this pressure of installing.
Thanks everyone for your info and suggestions. Will keep y'all updated on my progress
 
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