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Discussion Starter #1
Ive been away for awhile trying to get the car ready for paint and have finally dropped it off at the shop. Actually been on modularfors & svtperformance looking for parts and also got alot of help along the way. We had the engine and drivetrain in for awhile and I got pretty much everything worked out. We pulled the engine awhile back so we could finish the engine bay & detail the motor. I am going to try and attache some pics and will add more as the car progress's.
 

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Looks Great! One of the nicest inner fender replacements I've seen. Looks stock. Keep us posted.

John
 

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Sharp! I like how low the engine sits. Are you under a flat hood?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I dont know how many hours we have in the engine bay along. After the mustang II suspension upgrade the engine was setting to close to the firewall. We had moved it back and lowered it some and I didnt like not having some room between the firewall & engine.Also, I didn't like the look of the inserts that replaced the shock towers. So, I decided to cut firewall and inner fenders out and replace with new and smooth. I actually cut the radiator support out also and fabbed one up that is removable. Makes it nice pulling & installing the engine and drivetrain.I have a cowl hood that was used when I was running the 351. I actually would like to have the 67 shelby hood ,but I have a friend that is using the shelby hood on the same conversion and didn't want to copy him. I haven't measured but don't think the stock hood would work. When the car gets back and engine is installed i'll check.I will try and post up some more pics this weekend. Thanks
 

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JUst woundering what Hydraboost unit is that what changes did you have to make to the peddle to incorporate it. I would like to add a hydraboost to my 67 convertable.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
JUst woundering what Hydraboost unit is that what changes did you have to make to the peddle to incorporate it. I would like to add a hydraboost to my 67 convertable.
It is actually from the 03 cobra. I raised it up a few inches to get the rod angle right and had to replaced the stock rod. I made mine from another rod that I had from a sn95. I found a site on the net that has a large assortment of hydroboost supplies Builder of high quality hydroboost brake systems . They have adustable rods and a large assortment of rod ends.
 

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Wow - looks great! You're putting a lot of power into that chassis - have you welded in some subframe connectors? Since you already have sound deadener installed I'm assuming you're not going the rollbar route to stiffen things up. What kind of sound deadener is that? Can you share the source and pricing? Once I have a rollcage put in my car I'm going to want to install some sound deadener.

Thanks, and keep the updates coming!!
 

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Awesome! What color?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have a couple of friends that have a chassis shop and we have toyed with some type of roll bar design. I just dont want anything me or the paasengers have to climb over to get in or out. I am going to add the subframe connecters here in the next week and burn them in. The sound deadner is a FatMat product. I installed some in my 95 years ago and was impressed with how good it worked. I found it on ebay. We are currrrently installing some in a friends 93 Cobra. As far as paint, Quick Silver FX for sure. As far as strips Im torn between shelby or supersnake and black or anthricate on the colors. My painter is suppose to spray me some samples of the different combos. I will keep everyone posted and thanks for all the nice replys.
 

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It wasn't a productive weekend. I did get my spindles stripped and painted.They turned out good. Yesterday & today I was busy assembling the engine. The torque to yield fasteners and upper & lower intake bolts about pushed me over the edge. Broke the lower intake bolt off and had to end pulling the top end back off and repairing. My painter is dragging his feet alittle. He did get so samples sprayed for me and the color is beautiful. I was hoping to have the car ready by goodguys in nashville, but its going to be close.
 

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The motor looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks ozarks06. I have seen your cardomain site before and just got through reading it again. I also had Tanks do my tank and hat with pump. Mine currently has the one pump which they rated to 625hp without any issues. I know that is a naturally aspirated rating though. My concern is when I have it tuned ,will I need an additional pump. I thought about a kennebell boost a pump but our setup came with 2 pumps from ford. I added a A/F ratio gauge when i got the motor running and never saw a lean condition. But I was driving pretty conservative since I haven't had it properly tuned except what I have done through my predator.Can you elaborate more on your 2 pump setup and how it works once it see's 2 psi. Also, possibly some pics and how you installed the 2 pumps in the single setup. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Amazon.com has boxes of Dynamat Extreme for $145 including shipping. I just picked up 4 boxes for my car.
Whats the sq ft on the dynamat? I believe the fatmat was around $135 for 100 sq ft. Thanks
 

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Thanks ozarks06. . . . Can you elaborate more on your 2 pump setup and how it works once it see's 2 psi. Also, possibly some pics and how you installed the 2 pumps in the single setup. Thanks
I used dual Walbro 255 HP pumps since I'm burning E85 and you should figure 50% more fuel capacity with E85. With gas you should be alright with one 255 HP pump. I assume you are running a return-type system.

I'm running the pumps in a modified Tank's Inc mount. I drilled another hole for the 2nd electrical circuit and made an insulated feed-through (parts from DigiKey).

I had first planned to use the Tank's tray and mount the pumps so both pickup socks were facing the same way, one on top of the other, but the assembly wouldn't fit through the hole in the tank. So I removed the tray and mounted the pumps side-by-side. (Be sure and use immersible fuel line for fuel-injection systems to plumb the pumps to the fittings [pricey - like $8 a foot or something silly].)



I had baffles welded into the bottom of the tank. They are about 6" high and it's basically a box with the left front corner open. Since I'm burning E85 I used a stainless tank. They welded the baffles to a 9" X 6" plate and welded that to the bottom of the tank in the left front corner. They also welded a flat plate on top to mount the Tank's mount. In my other tank I just cut a hole with a hole saw and used the cork gasket. I never could get it to seal well (trunk always smelled like gas) and since cork is not E85 safe, I needed a flat surface to use an alcohol-safe sealer.



The pumps each feed through a -6AN (3/8") line to a Y into a 100 micron filter, then feed through -8AN (1/2") line to the regulator. The return line is -6AN (3/8") into the original pickup on the sender assembly. The stainless tank is a 20 gallon 69 from Scott Drake.



When I ran both pumps the return line couldn't get fuel back fast enough to hold the right pressure so I wired in a Hobbs switch (from DigiKey). It turns on at 2# boost and provides a ground to the 2nd pump relay. The wiring diagram is below.

 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks for the reply back. I found the hobbs switch online that you mentioned and the schematics seem straight forward. I was trying to see what my options would be if I stepped up later on with a ported blower or possibly a whipple. Before we pulled the engine the car was around 13-14 psi of boost. The upper pulley had been changed to a 2.75 before i purchased the engine and drivetrain. I've been on the other websites where guys were having there cars tuned for max hp and with 4 & 6 lb lowers. They were in the 600-700 hp range and leaning out & detonation issues due to bad tunes or not enough fuel. I don't need anymore issues until after this car is complete and running. lol. Thanks again
 

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There's 9-18"x36" sheets and if my math is correct that's 40.5 sqft. I wasn't the best at math, though.
Is the Fat Mat as stiff as the Dynamat? This is my first experience with any sound deadener. Not exactly a fast process if you want it to look decent.
 

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There's 9-18"x36" sheets and if my math is correct that's 40.5 sqft. I wasn't the best at math, though.
Is the Fat Mat as stiff as the Dynamat? This is my first experience with any sound deadener. Not exactly a fast process if you want it to look decent.
both the Fatmat and the entry level Dynamat are asphalt based, and will gas off if it gets too hot. It will also become unstuck if the heat in the car hets too hot. Look for a rubber base product , I think the higher end Dynamat is rubber based as well as most of the products from RAAMaudio at a very competitive price. I used the their products in my FFR build, even placing it within 1/2" of the header. It didn't blister peel or have any ill effects from the heat.
 
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