[Dan Babb]

Will be following your progress. Keep at it.

 

[Dan Babb]

Like how you closed up the rear of the Spintechs. Going to have to do that to mine. Thanks for the visual.

 

[Dan Babb]

Nice work.

Was this your first time leading in seams? I'm thinking about trying it for for my car, but have never done it before.

 

[Dan Babb]

Nice...that's how I did my shelby style roll bar too. I put my attachment bolts on the wheelhouse.

What are the plates on top of the rollbar for?

 

[Dan Babb]

Can you mount 4pt harnesses up that high? I'm putting harnesses wrapped around a removable bar that's just above shoulder height in mine.

 

[Dan Babb]

Looks great...I really wish I had a rotisserie. I'm going to spray lizard skin and even though I have a 4 post lift, I'm not looking forward to spraying overhead.

If you hit a big bump, will the control arms hit the floor? Hard to tell in the pics, but the arms look pretty close to the floor now.

 

[Dan Babb]

I know summer is almost over, but have you looked at getting a dehumidifyer for the garage? Get one that will let you run a drain line outside.

You can also probably keep your eye out for a portable AC unit and have it on a timer so it will help keep you cool (and will dry out the air at the same time).

I bought an LG mini-split for my garage and it's awesome!
https://www.ecomfort.com/LG-LS180HSV4/p56913.html
You'll be up around $2,000 for the unit and other parts you need to install it...then probably another grand for installation (unless you have friends in the AC biz), but it's the best 'tool' I have other than my lift.

 

[Dan Babb]

Are you using 66 style quarter extensions with gaskets? If so, do they push the extension out a bit?

I'm working on my fiberglass bumper and trying to figure out how tight I want it to the quarters. Thinking I may follow the body line created by the quarter extension and I may need to have the gaskets to get it all lined up correctly.

 

[Dan Babb]

They look nice in there.

Wonder if you could find a good upholstery guy and ask them to shave down the headrest a bit so it's not so tall. Seems like they could reshape the foam and then make a cover out of the same material you use for the rest of the seat. Shorting the headrest by 2-3" would probably make a big difference in how it looks in the car.

 

[Dan Babb]

They won't slide forward far enough to allow someone to get into the back seat? Do you really have anyone who would be getting into the back seat of your car anyway?

 

[Dan Babb]

Looks great!
I'm very jealous...I still have a lot of work on my panels to get everything to fit as nice as what you've got.

 

[Dan Babb]

I'll be doing the same thing on my car this weekend. I still have some grinding of the posts on the back side to do to get them to fit closer to the fender, then I'll be adding the filler to even them out with the top/sides of the fenders.

How long is the drive from Central Kentucky to Chapel Hill? Maybe you should just swing by and do them for me since you'll be a pro at it.

 

[Dan Babb]

Not my build thread, but here's my 2 cents.

I was a novice welder when I started my build and am probably mediocre now. I only have a couple of pieces that are suspension related that I welded to my car.

The 4 link brackets that mount to the rear frame.
And the corresponding brackets that mount to the rear end.

I was nervous at first, but I did a bunch of test welds on similar sized scrap and cut some apart to make sure I was getting penetration before welding them to the car.

Once I had the settings dialed in, I did the welding and everything looked good.

I had some pieces that I didn't think I could do nicely (like welding the sub-frame connectors to the floor and having to weld them in over my head). I didn't want to have to clean up a bunch of boogers hanging down from the floor. I paid a pro to come to my house to do those.

I'd be worried about warping a hood and would probably farm that out too. I wound up buying a steel framed fiberglass hood for my car because I figured it would cost me almost as much to get a steel hood welded to the car and then do the body work to make it look like one piece.

 

[Dan Babb]

Hope they follow through for you. It's great that they got back to you quickly.

UPS might tell them it wasn't packed with enough protection. They put that nice solid wood on the sides and a flimsy piece of foam to protect the bottom.

 

[Dan Babb]

Just realized I hadn't posted anything about the lastest works. As long as I was working on the quarter vents, I decided to go ahead and look at the inside panels. The panels themselves are in very good condition but the chrome inserts however are pitted pretty bad so first order of business was to see if they would polish out any. Nope, too far gone. Searched and searched, doesn't appear anyone reproduces them either. Ended up searching Fleabay and found a set at a decent price with decent looking chrome and did the "Buy It Now" thing and got them in. The chrome is not perfect but is MUCH better than what I have, the panel itself was poorly painted some time in the past, black over top gold. Used a mix of paint stripper, scrub brush and wire wheel to remove the black, along with some of the gold. Followed up with good scrubbing with hot water and Dawn. I looked at possibly removing the inserts but it was going to be tricky both to remove them and then to reinstall them so decided to work with them in place.
I taped off the front side of the chrome to block over spray and taped around the edges on the back side then turned them over and applied 3 coats of John Deere Blitz Black. Once paint had dried but before hardening I pulled the tape and wiped faces down with little thinner to remove paint soak through and polished them out. No, not exactly new but pretty close and much better than what I had.

Mine are really bad. I'm either going to powdercoat them a gloss black (so they stand out just a bit from the satin color that will be on the panel). Or maybe do a silver or chrome powdercoat and then spraypaint them black and wipe off the paint from the top.

 

[Dan Babb]

Homemade tools are the best. I’ve made a few for my project along the way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Dan Babb]

Here are a couple of pictures that might help. I placed the CMCVs on the back of the intake for reference. My car is a 70 Mach 1 and the firewall has been modified on the PS of the engine. I am currently looking for how to plumb the heater bypass valve. It is getting tight behind the engine.

The firewall area is not done, so still a work in progress.

I mounted mine on the side of the inner fender (below the hood hinge). Then just found some heater hoses at the auto parts store with the bends I needed to make it work. You should have more room on the side and can route the heater hose back to the engine however you'd like. I'm going to wind up going down to the frame and then forward, and then back up to the water pump. Longer routing but it will be cleaner looking than going over the top of the intake.

 

[Dan Babb]

How about a 'retainer clip' that you see on the convertible cars. Something that mounts to the headrest rods. Then the buckle would be right there for you to grab. You could probably find something like this in a junkyard near you for less than the price in this auction. Mustang S550 Front Seat Belt Guides 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 EcoBoost Coyote GT | eBay