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Are you using the MT-82 Trans? Is modifying the floor support the only tunnel mod needed to make it fit? I ask because I haven't decided 100% on engine choice yet...and I know for a fact the 3.7L v6 will fit between the shock towers(headers would be very tight I am sure), give me the 300HP and 25mpg+ I want for a daily driver and has a MT-82 6-speed mtx as well(and it would be almost 200lbs lighter than a 302)
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Are you using the MT-82 Trans? Is modifying the floor support the only tunnel mod needed to make it fit? I ask because I haven't decided 100% on engine choice yet...and I know for a fact the 3.7L v6 will fit between the shock towers(headers would be very tight I am sure), give me the 300HP and 25mpg+ I want for a daily driver and has a MT-82 6-speed mtx as well(and it would be almost 200lbs lighter than a 302)
Going with T56 Magnum. Although a guy locally built a 69 with MT-82 that turned out nice. He said he didn't have any issues.
The floor support is the only mod I have done, several suppliers have assured me that this is all I will need to do. One of the members here has a 65 with T56 and Coyote and that is all he had to do. I drove it and it was a very nice build and worked out great.

I have heard that 3.8 swap works out great, lighter and 75 more horsepower than my 289 started out with. Eco-boost is another intriguing build. several available. I heard the first few swaps were pretty difficult because of the electronics but Ford is now offering the plug and play control packs so it should be fairly straightforward.
 

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Reply moved to PM to not clutter thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #184
Progress still slow due to blazing hot weather, yard work, and the opening of bow season. I however get the 67 hood worked on some. I had bought it for practice and had done some test spays on it to check color and primer. Now I have sanded it down, primed it, sprayed primer/surfacer, sanded again and sealed it. Local jobber had a partial can of black they let me have cheap to practice with. Hope to have some decent weather (sub 90s) to spray and clear coat it. Working on it outside of shop so hope bugs won't be an issue.

This may be overkill but I am going through the exact same steps on this practice hood as I am going through on the car itself, except of course the outside spraying. After I thought I was just about ready, the nice slick epoxy primer showed a couple of rock chips that I had missed. Part of me said "Hey, its just a practice piece, no big deal!". But another part of me said to make it a real test and break out the filler. I figure that if I get the spray technique right, this black should should make any flaws in my prep show up.

Some reason, the only pics I took was right before I sprayed the surface prep
 

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Discussion Starter #185
WOW! Didn't realize how long since I had posted anything. Progress has been very slow with lot of things going on and deer season keeping me in the woods. Anyhow, I did take a little time to spray some Lizard Skin. Taped off center sections of underside of deck lid and door panels and spent a few evenings spraying.
 

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Discussion Starter #186
Between coats of Lizard Skin I took time to start on the quarter vents. Started out by giving them a serious bath to remove years of grime and then took a bunch of pictures to make sure I get them back together correctly. I was concerned about the brightwork being corroded. A few minutes with extra fine steel wool and lacquer thinner though and they started shining up nicely. I figure a little follow up with some chrome polish and some elbow grease and they should be looking like new.
Anyone have any suggestions on shining up the mesh? Is the bright work chrome plate or stainless?
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They look like cast aluminum, you should be able to sand and polish out any scratches on them(an advantage of polished aluminum over chrome plated steel)
 

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Discussion Starter #188
Tried to remove rest of paint from quarter vent but some of that old factory primer and paint were pretty resistant. Drug the sand blaster out and finished them up nicely. Also did some polishing on the chrome inserts. Trying to figure out how the inside edges should be finished: natural, painted or polished. Starting to lean towards maybe the same charcoal as the Bullitt wheels.
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Discussion Starter #189
Picked up some factory Coyote headers at a decent price. I am hoping I only have to use them for fitting etc. and eventually resell or use them for Mustang art on shop wall. I got recommendation from Ultimate Headers that their P/N 471071 should work. Did some research and it looks like they are same that @Boss50h mentioned using.
 

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Picked up some factory Coyote headers at a decent price. I am hoping I only have to use them for fitting etc. and eventually resell or use them for Mustang art on shop wall. I got recommendation from Ultimate Headers that their P/N 471071 should work. Did some research and it looks like they are same that @Boss50h mentioned using.
I have to ask what use they are for fitment if you are just going to use other headers in the end anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter #191
I have to ask what use they are for fitment if you are just going to use other headers in the end anyway?
Yeah, I could have worded that better. Was in a hurry. If I run into issue with aftermarket headers or such and these work, I will measure off them to either make or request mods on the aftermarket items. Kind of look at these and see what works and what doesn't and compare features. Also, take the BFH to these for test mods before I go thumping on the hi-dollar units.
 

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Haha, careful...you may end up like me and making a set from scratch....probably wouldn't be too hard for you...you have a lot more engine bay room.
 
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You are correct with the quote from my build thread. The new PN if 471071 as shown. Not sure if Ultimate Headers has made the new PN available to vendors like Summit Racing, but if they do, you could save some bucks going that route. I paid $1330 for my set which included a $80 charge for shipping. If you can find a sale at Summit, you could possibly save about 10% plus the shipping charge. Some kind of mating flange will have to be added to the headers as that is not part of the base cost. I bought a set of UH low profile clamps made for the purpose from Summit, about $220 now. The clamps have the bung for the O2 sensors incorporated into them, something you will need. I like the clamps as I can index the O2 bung sensor bungs where I want them. They also provide about 15 degrees of movement allowing you to better align them with your exhaust.

I have a few pictures in my build thread to see what they look like.
 

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Discussion Starter #194
We have had some unusually warm weather in Kentucky so I was able to get shop warmed up enough to spray some primer the past couple weekends. BUT, although I got the primer warm, and air temp warm, I neglected to get some gear lube warm and of course the concrete floor was icy cold. Wrong time to try and fill pumpkin with gear lube. My shoulders were tired from laying on floor operating the little pump. Second bottle got sat in front of the heater, still flowed pretty slowly. Next time I will fill during assembly AND make sure it it warm! Incidentally, yesterday the temps started a downhill slide from 60 degrees and we are now about 15 degrees with a light dusting of snow. Yep, that is Kentucky weather.

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Discussion Starter #195
No update in this post.....just a little wistful imagining the day I can take if for a ride the first time.
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Discussion Starter #196
Went back and forth on this and decided to go with it. Modern vehicles normally have some heat/sound deaden-er under the hood. Ole Mustang didn't but then again it will now have over twice the horsepower, and heat that comes with it, under the hood. So, in the vein of covering all the details, I decided to spray the last of my Lizard Skin heat shield under the hood. Masked off the frame and sprayed the single layer and edged areas. I will give it a few days, then touch up the edges a little and primer. Already hit the underside of decklid with some primer. Came out nice. 20200125_123416.jpg 20200125_101422.jpg 20200125_104439.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #197
Going with Hydro Boost for the brakes. Checked around and got several recommendations to either modify the 66 pedal assembly or install a modified 67 assembly to give better pedal feel for power brakes. Provider I am going with recommended a 67 so that is what I am going with. The firewall takes a minor modification and the dash end of the bracket requires narrowing of the bolt pattern. So I removed and shortened the net keeper, welded up the holes and redrilled closer together.
I got the new pedals in and had some momentary confusion, mentioned in another post, because the brake pedal was so much longer than the clutch, whereas on my 65, they are the same length. Well, found out that is due to the power brake pedal being mounted higher to give a different fulcrum point. Did a quick trial assembly using the top set of holes and things looked right.
Took the pedals out and decided while I was at it I would do something to take the ugly off those new pedals. Stamped pieces of steel just looked cheap and not what I was after. So an hour or so with 60 grit, 120 grit flap wheels followed by reciprocating pad and got them looking much more streamlined. They look a lot thinner but I really didn't remove much material, mainly leveled out surfaces and rounded the corners. I think once I paint they will look MUCH better than original. 1579823535299.jpg 20200125_131937.jpg 20200125_144103.jpg 20200124_175212.jpg 20200125_144120.jpg
 

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What approach are you going to take for the hydroboost? I went with Hydratech and their cantilevered mount. If you are going to use a hydroboost from a Mustang, I have a replica Boss 429 wedge for the firewall that I am not using. I thought I would need one, but the Hydratech system has their own mounting bracket. I would like to see a picture of your Hydroboost system.
 

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Discussion Starter #199
What approach are you going to take for the hydroboost? I went with Hydratech and their cantilevered mount. If you are going to use a hydroboost from a Mustang, I have a replica Boss 429 wedge for the firewall that I am not using. I thought I would need one, but the Hydratech system has their own mounting bracket. I would like to see a picture of your Hydroboost system.
Going with guy on Ebay that several people recommended. Has Custom Power Brake. I considered contacting you about that wedge but like you, this system has it's own bracket. Figured that I would go that route instead of trying to go a trial and error method. As usual, I am in pretty unknown territory, learning as I go and all inclusive packages make sense for me. I am kind of jumping ahead but I will be making a couple minor mods to the firewall and figured it would be easier before I set the engine in place.
 

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I can relate on the weather somewhat. The winds and temps have been brutal here for most of Jan.. Finally got some relief but it will be short lived. Still have 2 cold months ahead of us. Just like you I'll have to be satisfied with getting some of the smaller projects done.
 
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