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Discussion Starter #281
Well, I have got the transmission tunnel welded up from the bottom, coat of Rust Bullet and 2K seam sealer applied. Also cut hole for shifter and Emergency brake lever. looks like it will fit fine.
I am using washers to adjust the height of the engine and of course when setting engine, it is a pain to get them in place, shims I made have been great for test purposes but I want to use solid now that I know how many I need AND it makes me nervous trying to lower engine while my fingers are under there holding washers in place. On the TV shows, someone would go over to the lathe and turn down some fancy spacers. I don't have a lathe so the washers will have to do, so I got them tacked into place.
Also, the more I looked at the air intake opening for the Revology CAI, the more restrictive it looked. A redline of 7,500 RPM at almost 500 HP will need plenty of air flow so I decided to make my own. Took some 1/8 inch flat stock, welded a frame and salvaged some expanded metal from an old trailer. Not quite as fancy and intricate but definitely looks like it will breathe better.
 

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I found out the hard way that shims were necessary between the windshield posts and the frame on my Factory Five Cobra, broken windshields due to stress. I bought shims from McMaster Carr in various thicknesses, but had to stack them to fill the gap on each side. Of course each side was different, but to be expected I guess. It was bad enough trying to hold a single shim in place while installing the bolts and lock nut. So I used Ultra Black Silicone gasket maker to hold each stack together. Once the stacks were setup, I used a little RTV on the outside of the shims and positioned them where needed. Once the RTV setup again, I inserted the bolts and added the lock nuts. Sometimes we have to figure out how to add a second set of hands to get jobs like these done.
I see the welding worked, but RTV can be your friend too sometimes.
Does Revology supply their own plumbing from the throttle body on? A lot of guys just use Spectre parts and make their own CAI plumbing. I did this on my FF Cobra.
Looking forward to seeing the Revology CAI installed on your car.
 

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Couldn’t you have used their plate, and just opened it up more?
 

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Discussion Starter #284
I see the welding worked, but RTV can be your friend too sometimes.
Does Revology supply their own plumbing from the throttle body on? A lot of guys just use Spectre parts and make their own CAI plumbing. I did this on my FF Cobra.
Looking forward to seeing the Revology CAI installed on your car.
Yep, the Revology kit has everything. Before I pulled the engine back out, I had it mocked up.
 

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Discussion Starter #285
Couldn’t you have used their plate, and just opened it up more?
But what is the fun of that?
Yeah, I considered that but decided to go this way for several reasons. Part of it was their recommended installation was to cut out metal and butt weld the plate in there. I had used a filler plate where the old shock towers had been and this would have overlapped on one side requiring me to cut into it. I had already finished that area, it meant cutting into double metal and the filler plate is pretty thick. And of course there were the welds there that I had already done. If I had done this at the very beginning I might have gone that route and welded them all up at the same time. Really didn't want to go back and redo all that.
 

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Discussion Starter #286
Ok, not a big update but a big milestone for me last night. We are predicted to have some super cold weather coming in for the weekend and I knew it might be tough to get shop warm enough for any spraying....SO....I got out there and scuffed up the Rust Bullet to get some adhesion and resprayed the Upol Raptor. I knew when I sprayed it the first time, I would probably have to redo some of it but I wanted to get it done before installing the suspension. Just didn't expect to do quite as much as I did. Anyhow, this means that all tunnel and engine bay mods are now done (hopefully) and I am ready to set the engine/trans assembly for the final time.
Not sure what was going on with the Upol, it sprayed fairly nice for the first little bit then started throwing little goblets of it so I started spraying the area right behind the motor, it needed it heavier anyhow and a little more impact resistance in that area wouldn't hurt. I removed the bottle from the sprayer and shook it up some more for a couple minutes. Went back to spraying and it still was globbing it out, then suddenly smoothed out and gave me nice fine, even spray so I moved on to the rest of it. Hoping to get my brother and grandson into the shop this Saturday and have them help me lower drive train into place.
 

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Wow, just read your entire thread.
‘First, congrats, what a mammoth undertaking and the amount of thought you put into it is great.
Since I just finished mine I am really interested in your choices and the detail in your thread is amazing. Makes me want to go back and redo my thread.
‘Will be with you till the end.
Fantastic work.
 

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Discussion Starter #288
Wow, just read your entire thread.
‘First, congrats, what a mammoth undertaking and the amount of thought you put into it is great.
Since I just finished mine I am really interested in your choices and the detail in your thread is amazing. Makes me want to go back and redo my thread.
‘Will be with you till the end.
Fantastic work.
Many thanks! Having never done this before, it has certainly been an undertaking. Enjoyed your build, even with the longggg pauses..ha ha. And even though I was looking forward to seeing how it would handle bagged, I fully agree with you not doing it.
 

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Thanks I think I made the right decision after flailing for way to long.
Driving it makes up for all that.
‘Funny when you talked about jack points for the front, I did some reinforcement up there also but not as nice (triangulated) as yours. It was fun to read your thread and go back over all those observations and decisions.
All my best to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #290
Pleasantly surprised last night to come home and find a big box with "Fragile" tape all over it, on the front deck from Jim Browning at Ultimate Headers. Rushed out to the shop, and decided to do a quick test fit on the engine. Love the sight of this powerplant.
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Thought about you and your build last night. Bitchin Rides had some sort of Mustang marathon going on, showing two
of their builds back to back. That Mike Lazear Optima Challenge Mustang was insane!
 
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Pleasantly surprised last night to come home and find a big box with "Fragile" tape all over it, on the front deck from Jim Browning at Ultimate Headers. Rushed out to the shop, and decided to do a quick test fit on the engine. Love the sight of this powerplant.
Do you have a plan for the O2 bungs and connecting to the headers? Ultimate Headers makes what they call a low profile clamp, can be had with or without the O2 bungs. Since I was working with Jim on the fitment of the headers, I sent him my set of low profile clamps I bought from Summit. They welded them on before shipping my set of headers out. The clamp allows you to position the outlet some, hopefully making the connection of your exhaust a bit easier. It has a integral band clamp, so once welded to the headers and exhaust, provides a means of disconnecting from the headers if needed. Something to consider adding to yours.
 

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Discussion Starter #293
Do you have a plan for the O2 bungs and connecting to the headers? Ultimate Headers makes what they call a low profile clamp, can be had with or without the O2 bungs. Since I was working with Jim on the fitment of the headers, I sent him my set of low profile clamps I bought from Summit. They welded them on before shipping my set of headers out. The clamp allows you to position the outlet some, hopefully making the connection of your exhaust a bit easier. It has a integral band clamp, so once welded to the headers and exhaust, provides a means of disconnecting from the headers if needed. Something to consider adding to yours.
That is something I have to work on. I did get the low profile clamp with the O2 bongs but not welded on. I think that was a misunderstanding on my part. I think maybe they were left loose so I could position clocking of the O2 bongs? I probably should have just made a good guess and had them welded on in clocked position.
 

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That is something I have to work on. I did get the low profile clamp with the O2 bongs but not welded on. I think that was a misunderstanding on my part. I think maybe they were left loose so I could position clocking of the O2 bongs? I probably should have just made a good guess and had them welded on in clocked position.
Flip the clamps around so the portion without the bung is welded to the header. That way the O2 bung can be clocked until you weld your exhaust to that part. I had the portion of the clamp that welds to the headers cut down to the minimum length so that the clamp would not cause my exhaust to exit too low once I get that far. The only downside of this approach I see is that the O2 sensors would need to be removed if you drop the exhaust. I wish I had take pictures of my headers on the engine with the clamps welded on before I installed the engine, but forgot to get the pics. My engine will come out in a couple of months so that I can weld up the firewall patch, trans tunnel patch, and all the unnecessary holes. I will make sure to get pics at that time. I know that does not help you now. I will also coat my headers when the engine comes out. I bought the Eastwood spray on coating, but after seeing the results on a friend's headers, not going that route. MasterSeries has a coating that comes out like a matte chrome when done, may look into that or spring for a professional ceramic coating. The local shop wanted too much, so I did not want them to do it.
 

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That is why I designed my o2/flex pipes to have v-band connections(well, my entire exhaust really):



Because in the end, clocking matters, and often you need just a little bit more for the o2 sensor to clear the floorboard or the trans, etc.(even though I welded the v-bands at the front at an angle to correct the header collector angle(ignore the ugly welds, the whole exhaust is just prototype and modular until I settle on a design that does what I want and sounds pleasing to me.


As for the air intake...you might be better off relocating the filter under the filter entirely instead of boxing off a section of the engine bay...only downside is that you would probably want to use some splash guards around the wheel then(not terribly difficult but tedious to get right)
 

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Discussion Starter #296
Didn't get as much done as I wanted over the weekend, some three way switches and some other house maintenance took precedence. I did remove all the header studs and set header bolts in their place. Took quite some time and I am glad I did. Had a time getting bolts in, had trouble getting studs back in that aluminum block right after pulling them and thought I was going to have to get a tap to chase a couple of them. If I was having such fits with the engine out, I shudder to think of trying to work them in the engine bay. Liberal application of anti-seize.
Installed starter: 5 minute job turned to an hour when one screw hole was just SLIGHTLY out of alignment.
Broke down transmission, double checked hydraulic throw out and threadlocked the set screw. Reattached the transmission and then went about the task of tightening and rechecking torque on trans bolts, motor mounts, etc.
Used a paint pen as I went. Old hat for a lot of you builders and manufacturing folks but really handy for someone like myself who may go a long time between steps and forget when I have done final snugging. Also helps to indicate if a bolt does move after break in.
Threw in picture of comparison of factory tubes and the Ultimate Headers
 

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Discussion Starter #297
Thought about you and your build last night. Bitchin Rides had some sort of Mustang marathon going on, showing two
of their builds back to back. That Mike Lazear Optima Challenge Mustang was insane!
After reading this, I had to go back and watch that Mike Lazear build again, man I wish I had a fraction of the talent of the guy doing that valance work! And the equipment...ha ha.
One thing though, I have seen what I guess is the first episode where they have it almost up to paint. Have they show the final part of the build yet and I missed it?
 

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After reading this, I had to go back and watch that Mike Lazear build again, man I wish I had a fraction of the talent of the guy doing that valance work! And the equipment...ha ha.
One thing though, I have seen what I guess is the first episode where they have it almost up to paint. Have they show the final part of the build yet and I missed it?
There is another episode as the car has been completed. It was quite a build, the guy has to have deep pockets.

I am also envious of their metal working skills, however they have all the tools in the world to get it done. Part of the reason their full builds cost $250K and up.

There is a Pantera in the shop that you get a glimpse of here and there in the current episodes, can't wait to seem them build that car.

The Motortrend channel subscription can be an advantage as you can see new episodes a bit earlier than on TV and all the episodes are available for viewing. The app is compatible with some newer Smart TVs but I had to get a FireTV stick to get the app. Now that most of our favorite magazines like Mustang Monthly, are no longer in print, I like being able to view old episodes on demand.
 

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I know they are reality shows and I know they mix a lot of drama with actual work that takes mad skills, equipment, time and money, but I LOVE watching talented people bend and weld metal. It’s just a thing for me, same as watching a blacksmith. That’s why I don’t look up @ latoracing, I would just sit and watch him weld stuff all day and be a general nuisance....
 

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Discussion Starter #300
Guess I will have to try and watch the second half of the Bitchin Rides episode on line. Figured out why I had missed it. Evidently Direct TV missed it, at least in my area. I went through looking at all the episodes and the first half was episode 7, Direct's next listings are 9 and 10 so 8 is missing.
 
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