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1970 Mach 1
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Been hit or miss lately but here are a few updates.
First off, I installed the remote oil filter mount on the drivers sided of frame. Made a nice bracket for it and all, got it mounted and made up the hoses. Well, got them installed but not happy with it. Those -12an hoses are very stiff and as the distance was so short, routing and bending the hoses was a real bear. Got it done but one was almost kinking and all the fittings were under tension. Sooooo...moving it to the other side where I can make some gentle bends. Mocked it up and will work but I did have to order an additional 90 degree fitting...luckily the kit came with enough hose. Also going to have to modify the bracket that I made to mount the PCM to allow me to mount filter below it.
I have my remote filter mount in the same general area. I agree 100 percent that getting the correct hose end fittings is key to the routing. Like you I went through a couple of iterations, but the final result was good. The -12 AN fittings and hose are expensive as well as stiff. I guess the price we have to pay to put 10 lbs. of stuff in a 5 lb. bag. You are getting closer, can't wait to hear your car run.
 

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Discussion Starter · #462 ·
OK, one thing that didn't feel right was the shoulder harness for the seatbelt. Kinda rubbed my neck but I could have lived with it. Unfortunately, it was obvious that my 5' 4" vertically challenged wife would have trouble: the shoulder strap would have gone across her mouth....yeah, there are a lot of jokes there.
Anyhow, I cut the overhead racing belt brackets from the roll bar and welded them to the side of the roll bar. Just didn't look right, way to big and ugly. So I took some 1/4" steel I had and made some smaller tabs. They already had some bends just the right size to wrap around the bar. Looked great when I got done BUT, now the belts mount a little to far back...SIGH!
Looks like I am going to have weld or bolt extensions to the tabs or possibly find some of those guides like some seats have, similar to one on an early 2000 seat I have.

Here is first attempt, just too high.
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Moved bracket from top to side. Just too big and ugly!
Motor vehicle Hood Automotive exterior Bumper Wood


Much more presentable
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Too far back...GRRR...I WILL get it right! Just gotta rethink it.
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Discussion Starter · #464 ·
How about a 'retainer clip' that you see on the convertible cars. Something that mounts to the headrest rods. Then the buckle would be right there for you to grab. You could probably find something like this in a junkyard near you for less than the price in this auction. Mustang S550 Front Seat Belt Guides 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019 EcoBoost Coyote GT | eBay
Yeah, that was what I was referring to when I said "guide", not sure of the proper term. That looks like it might work. The one I have on this old Mustang seat actually screws into the seat back, not sure if I like that. I am thinking that if the one in that eBay add didn't have the right spacing I could probably drill it out and no one would notice.
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1965 Mustang Cp. Ford Laser Red. 351W stroked to a 427, Borla 8 stack injection system, VERY Custom.
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Did some mock ups of the interior. Seat position feels good, steering wheel, e-brake, shifter. View attachment 866354 View attachment 866355
Hello Huntingky! Looking great!

Your shifter handle set up looks very similar to mine. Make sure you remove that round bolt connected to the shifter handle adapter at the transmission. Then flip your handle upside down and remove that same style bolt on the adapter piece bolted to your shifter handle. Then put Loctite on both bolts and reassemble. The bolt on the shifter handle adapter side is what vibrated loose on my car. Since the bolt is mounted upside down (under your shifter handle) gravity helps it back out at the same time.

Maybe my mishap can help you avoid the same fate.......
 

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Discussion Starter · #466 ·
Hello Huntingky! Looking great!

Your shifter handle set up looks very similar to mine. Make sure you remove that round bolt connected to the shifter handle adapter at the transmission. Then flip your handle upside down and remove that same style bolt on the adapter piece bolted to your shifter handle. Then put Loctite on both bolts and reassemble. The bolt on the shifter handle adapter side is what vibrated loose on my car. Since the bolt is mounted upside down (under your shifter handle) gravity helps it back out at the same time.

Maybe my mishap can help you avoid the same fate.......
At least they edited it out so the world didn't see it happen!
 

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1965 Mustang Cp. Ford Laser Red. 351W stroked to a 427, Borla 8 stack injection system, VERY Custom.
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At least they edited it out so the world didn't see it happen!
LMAO!!! That was Devine intervention. Was told they had to edit it out because the audio failed during that mishap. SWEET!!! LMAO!!! Besides, there are enough D-bags making stupid comments without that scene in the video LOL....

Lovin the build so far brother. Can't wait to see more 🤘 ......
 

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Discussion Starter · #468 ·
Well, time for an update. Have gotten most of the engine wiring done, still a few things to work out. Still need to order in and install trunk mount battery.
In trying to finish up dash wiring I realized that I need to have console ready in order to make some decisions. Time to build the console.
I have ordered in some high density plastic to build it with and started out doing a mockup in cardboard. Well, looked pretty good but saw some changes I wanted to make and also needed to get some cup holder inserts to test sizing. Used a few out of our Slingshot for first tests.
Got those in along with a variety of switches and u-bolts to use as guards. I have decided to go with a vintage aircraft look to the console and also route the center heat/AC vents through it.
So built console version 2.0. Moved vents to top. Did some test fitting of the switches. Top 2 will be power windows. Bottom 2 will be USB and interior lights. The left one with guard on it may or may not stay, it is for electronic exhaust cut outs. On the right side I have place marked for slot to hold phone, may put one on left.
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Cool mockup, looking forward to seeing the real thing.
Eventually I will need to make up my own console as well. I kept the 2017 Mustang GT console and was shocked just how wide it is compared to the trans tunnel in my 70.
 

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Discussion Starter · #470 ·
Actual construction of console has begun.
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Actual construction of console has begun. View attachment 875517
Any chance you would share the materials you are using and techniques for shaping and finally the adhesive you plan to use to hold it together. A friend used 1/4 plywood for his, but the use of what appears to be ABS plastic looks so much cleaner. Also where did you source the materials.
I have to make a console for my build as well and I would like to follow in your footsteps.
 

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68 Mustang Coupe
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Any chance you would share the materials you are using and techniques for shaping and finally the adhesive you plan to use to hold it together. A friend used 1/4 plywood for his, but the use of what appears to be ABS plastic looks so much cleaner. Also where did you source the materials.
I have to make a console for my build as well and I would like to follow in your footsteps.
I've researched this and it seems the "pros" use pvc foam panels. Lightweight, easy to cut with basic wood tools, reasonably priced.
 
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Looking good so far...but I would suggest tapering the console as it gets toward the rear I always felt that 70s firebirds/camaros had the best looking consoles:

Or like the later 72ish Mustangs. I found I was a lot happier with my console once I tapered the plug I used to lay the fiberglass. The downside is that you have a bit less arm room, which may matter if 2 people are trying to use it at the same time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #476 ·
Looking good so far...but I would suggest tapering the console as it gets toward the rear I always felt that 70s firebirds/camaros had the best looking consoles:

Or like the later 72ish Mustangs. I found I was a lot happier with my console once I tapered the plug I used to lay the fiberglass. The downside is that you have a bit less arm room, which may matter if 2 people are trying to use it at the same time.
I will have to take a follow up picture. It actually tapers quite a bit and follows the contour of the tunnel which is wider in the front on the passenger side.
 

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Discussion Starter · #477 ·
Any chance you would share the materials you are using and techniques for shaping and finally the adhesive you plan to use to hold it together. A friend used 1/4 plywood for his, but the use of what appears to be ABS plastic looks so much cleaner. Also where did you source the materials.
I have to make a console for my build as well and I would like to follow in your footsteps.
First off, I will give credit to @Kjsmitty for the idea to use it. I am just utilizing it a little different.

This is what I used, in both 1/2" an 1/4" thickness.


First off, there is smooth and there is textured. I am using the textured because it closely mimics the black "camera case" finish of the gauge and glove compartment and just looks right. Later on down the line I might upholster it but current plan is to go as is. I have 1/4" windlace for the exposed edges.
It is heavier than you might imagine.
I used 1/2" for the base and for the uprights. This gives plenty of support and material to screw into.
I used 1/4" for the sides. This allowed me to conform it to the curves of the base which follows contour of the tunnel.
Most of the cutting was with a skillsaw and sabre saw. If adjustable speed, run on the slowest. I tried using a pneumatic body saw but it ran so fast the material would get hot and gum up around the blade.
I am borrowing a router table from my Dad to plane the edges and put a rolled edge on the phone and drink holders.
Sanding the edges is a PAIN! Used the coarsest grit available, it is slow going.
I have used both wax pencil and paint marker to to do my layout. Surprisingly, the paint marker is my preferred tool here. Wax doesn't want to let go but rag with acetone will remove the paint with few strokes.
Right now, it is held together entirely with screws. I will be replacing them, and adding to them with black auto trim screws. Some parts will receive screws and epoxy. I am doing some experimentation but so far a plastic epoxy I bought yesterday seems to the most robust.
I won't be using any adhesive for the final assembly because I will have to attach the sides to the base once I set it in place. I will know for sure once I have the carpet in place but right now, I am pretty confident that because of the E-brake, it won't set in place as an assembly. I have an old doubled up floormat that I am using for mock up right now. I want to be able to get it back out if need be. The front panel will definitely be removable because the stereo guts, Dakota and cruise controllers will be behind there and in case I need to replace switches.

Incidentally, I was thinking of cutting up a leather jacket for the armrest and shifter/ebrake boots. Then I got to thinking about ordering in the same red leather as the seats. For the vinyl that looks like the leather, I was quoted $45 for a yard of it. That jacket might get the knife yet!
 

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Discussion Starter · #479 ·
Keep in mind that most adhesives won’t bond to HDPE.
Yeah, fail rate on those I have tried is high right now. Might serve just to avoid flexing.
 

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Pressure sensitive types will usually stick but it won’t be a structural bond at all. it won’t solvent bond/weld either as very little dissolves it. A melt bond with metal reinforcements would be the best or switch to ABS sheet which gives you lots of bonding capabilities.
 
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