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Ok, I am FINALLY going to start a build thread. Anyone wanting to see current progress though will probably have to wait a little bit as it will take me awhile to tell the story from the beginning and document the progress.
A little back ground: I am the second owner of this A Code 65 GT Fastback. I bought it back in 1977 right after graduating high school. It was my second Mustang, my first car being a 66 coupe, C Code Emberglow coupe. I drove the car through some college, couple jobs, marriage and divorce. Multiple other cars/truck came and went but this one stayed. It work Cragers and Keystone Klassics along the way
Unfortunately, when young, about 1981 I started working on it with no garage, limited tools and experience and no internet to research. Progress stalled and the car deteriorated some. Divorce, no money, going back to school etc and the car sat. Finally in 1985 or so I took a stab at getting it going, dropping another 289 in it and driving it around some covered in black primer. Then I graduated with my degree in electronics and moved to Texas to work in the defense industry and the car sat. It sat for several decades through job changes, a new wife and building a house. My wife asked me why I didn't go to car shows and I told her it was because I might get the bug again. Finally my sister started dating a guy who was finishing up rebuild of a 64 Impala. He had done all the work himself and I saw pictures of the rust bucket he had started out with. The bug bit and left an itch that had to be scratched!

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1966 GT Fastback, Vintage Burgundy, A-code, T5z, 4-wheel disc brakes
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Love this thread! And great story/history of your car. I bought mine in 1981, but only in recent years have been resurrecting it - a much slower process than I would like. Keep the updates coming!

Oh, and although it's probably too late for suggestions, here's a rear suspension solution made from renewable resources. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Good stuff! Thank you for all that. That's just a few more systems to analyze before I move forward. I was leaning towards TCI as Revology choose them as their standard for the new cars they build so I figured it might be the best to go with since they will have lots of feed back on what works and what doesn't and hopefully continue to refine their setup. The other one for me was AJE as its a bolt in solution and as I understand it, once you go that way, you open up a bunch of options using Fox body parts such as spindles , brakes and tie rods and so on giving myself an opportunity to save some $$.


I will continue to watch as you drop in the Coyote so we can see how well the Griggs setup works!
Oh yeah! In my long rambling post I completely forgot about looking at the AJE. It really intrigued me because like you said, it allows you to use a lot of OEM parts. I even kind of toyed around with the idea of trying to adopt ABS to it. I kind of steered away from it because of uncertainty about the struts. Some talked about the struts like they were the answer to everything, others tossed out comments about OEMs moving to struts because they were cheaper and not because they were better. None of your high end sports or supercars use them. Also heard a few complaints about quality. I have since heard that several people wish they had gone another route.

Incidentally, the Griggs setup us SN95 spindles. Griggs also manufactures their own version with 2 inch drop but $$$$. Maybe one day I will wish I had spent the extra bucks but for now I bought some used spindles, installed new hubs and drilled them out for the Griggs bump steer kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Ok, this will be an unusual post.

Thanks to everyone for the compliments and encouragements! Really helps keep the momentum going.

However, I am going to bring myself back down and admit this rank amateur definitely made some missteps along the way and there are things I had to redo and things I would do different. Besides some welds I had to redo, sometimes more than once, here are some things that cost me some progress.

I should have looked at the firewall closer right at the beginning. I overlooked just how bad it was, maybe I had blinders on because I hated the thought of replacing it. Anyhow I installed floor pan patches and new toe boards. Really had them looking good AND solid. After all that, I realized just how bad the firewall was and decided to replace it, meaning those toeboards had to come out. I had spent money and time needlessly. Oh well, it was good experience and cutting them back out made me realize how strong my welds were there.

Speaking of floor pan patches, on the drivers side I tried to follow the old lines where it met the rocker and failed miserably. I should have measured. I ended up getting it too high, had to grind the welds back out and lining it up correctly.

That floorpan turned out pretty good but I could have saved myself some time and gotten a nicer job if I had just gone ahead and replaced the whole thing, I think I ended up with 5 patches in it. I was still early in the build though and was totally intimidated by the thought of attempting it. After replacing the entire rear section including quarters, the thought of replacing a floorpan doesn't even make me blink.

And those SN95 spindles? My grandson and granddaughter wanted to help one day so I let them paint them them put them away. When I got ready to use them though, one hub had a slight noise and slight catch as you turned it. DANG! I checked them out when I got them, how did I miss a bad bearing? So I bought new hubs and replaced both. During the rebuild I found that one of the kids had dripped some paint down on the back side of the hub and that was what was causing the rubbing! Oh well, although the old bearings felt tight, the new ones were noticeably firmer.

I'm sure I will have plenty more missteps to keep me humble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Finally came the day to start assembling the front suspension.
As mentioned, I got a nice set of SN95 spindles in, got assistance in painting them from grand-kids, installed new hubs and drilled out for bump steer kit.
Steering rack is Cobra spec fast ratio.
Brake calipers NOS Cobra.
Brake pad- EBC Red Stuff
Brake rotor- EBC Ultimax
Bungie- Tractor Supply
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Decided to go with Lizard Skin sound and heat barriers. Sprayed entire interior with Rust Bullet, applied 3M Urethane seam sealer and started spraying. It is two step process, spraying the sound deadening first than coming back with heat barrier. All these pictures are when it was still wet and it isn't nearly as lumpy looking as it looks in the pics. Although, I realized later that my air pressure wasn't set quite as high as it should have been. I sprayed every surface that might be exposed to sound or heat, floorboards, roof, firewall, inside the quarters and the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
I decided to take some time to work on the fenders. I had originally thought to replace them but after seeing some cars with replacements and the poor alignment and hearing the difficulties of getting them to work, I decided to save my old ones. On the passenger side the damage extended up past the feature line and the patch didn't exactly line up so I had to get it close and then use weld to build up the area then grind the profile back. I was generally pleased with the results, won't take more than a skim of filler to hide. I am envious of the guys who can weld one up, grind it down and it be invisible. I am just not that good and I knew that the more I went back and tried to add weld the more likely I was to make it worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Had to do some repair on the inner supports.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Luckily, the rust in the drivers fender didn't extend above the line. The glossy white in the first picture was Picklex 20 that I had applied and was letting work before I sprayed the weld through.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Ok, here is one of my why-didn't-I-so-this-first moments. I had tossed around the thought of installing a roll bar and should have made the decision BEFORE I sprayed the Lizard Skin so I had to some scraping etc. to weld the mounts in.

Yes, I know this won't meet NHRA specs and won't protect in a roll over like Big Chief went through. It will however be MUCH stronger than the roof alone and will add some further rigidity to the chassis.

I wanted it a little stronger than its stock 4 point configuration and talked to Rich at MTF and he sold me an extra set of mounting plates, brackets and a couple pieces of tube for diagonals. A higher mount of the diagonals would have been stronger but I wanted to hide them and preserve as much interior as possible. I used some PVC to help judge my angles before cutting on the steel. It had to be just right to miss the light tunnel.

I have them bolted in for now but once I am satisfied that it won't have to come back out, I will weld it up.
 

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65 Coupe / Family owned since 21 APR 1964
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Great idea utilizing PVC to perfect size, angle and cuts. I plan to roll bar as well. Would love to do it myself but lack access to / ownership of a good pipe bender. I’m quickly approaching that phase of my build where I will have to pay and trust someone else to take the chassis to the finish etc. Only so much a guy can do in his typical garage/shop in the middle of suburbia. I’m just fortunate I have decent neighbors / car guys or I’m sure someone would have alerted the HOA police to me by now. Maybe they just like and appreciate the sound of a large air compressor, high pitched grinders, cutters and hammer/dolly every so often. ?

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Nice...that's how I did my shelby style roll bar too. I put my attachment bolts on the wheelhouse.

What are the plates on top of the rollbar for?
Top plates just in case I decide to go with 4 point harness....probably just for shows.
 

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Digging the Lizard Skin on the interior. :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Can you mount 4pt harnesses up that high? I'm putting harnesses wrapped around a removable bar that's just above shoulder height in mine.
Good catch. That's not going to be a good mount point for his restraints. The shoulder straps typically need to be around 10-15* either direction of the shoulder plane . Impact and Simpson spec not going above the shoulder plane at all. Check the install docs for the particular brand but if they are up to the top of the bar it's not going to work as designed for any of those type restraints. The bolt in bar is a good idea if the car isn't going to need to pass a race sanction tech inspection.

G-Force install docs
https://www.jegs.com/instructions/471/471harnessinstall.pdf

Simpson install docs
https://simpsonraceproducts.com/pdf/inst/Seat_Belt_Mounting.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
Can you mount 4pt harnesses up that high? I'm putting harnesses wrapped around a removable bar that's just above shoulder height in mine.
That is one of the reasons I mentioned for shows. I saw a couple cars with the straps mounted up there and figured that must be an accepted method. Later on I was doing some reading and found that that high doesn't meet the requirements. I started to go ahead and cut the brackets off but just don't want to until I am really really sure I don't need/want them there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Getting close to posting real time. Started getting IRS ready for installation. Got shipment in...bunch of boxes. The hardware package was really well done, blister packed in groups on big cardboard. 3.50 Tru Trac.
 

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