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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As I start tear down and repair looking for ideas to solidify my plan before I start building.
Pro touring sounds good - "Pro Touring is driving up the coast of California on a summer day with a stout small-block under the hood, a great-handling car, and your favorite lady by your side... Knowing you can dust that smug clown in the Porsche in any number of different ways... A heck of a lot more seat time than drag racing."
G machine sound good - "A classic muscle car with upgraded and updated suspension, brakes, drive train and aesthetics, generally lacking some of the creature comforts one would find in a pro-touring car, such as cup-holders, leather seats, etc., otherwise identical to a pro-touring car."
(Thanks to Gearhead Garage | Pro Touring for eloquently stating what I wanted to say.)

Not wanting to loose the classic look and feel, but add some cornering.

tires - Have 205/70/14 at all 4. Thinking 225/55/16 front, 255/50/17 rear.
UPDATE - Thinking 225/45/17x8 front, 255/40/17x9 rear
suspension - Have UCA drop, bigger sway bars. Thinking poly & roller front, 4.5 leaf w/poly bushings rear.
stiffen - Have stock. Thinking subframe connectors, torque boxes.
powertrain - Have 350HP 302 & 3.73 LS 8.8. Thinking T5Z.
Brakes - Have 4 wheel disc, dual circuit.
body - Have stock. Thinking Shelby front apron & scoop, rolled fenders if needed.
interior - Have stock. Thinking updated gauges, stock looking seats with bolsters.

Where would you go? Any lessons learned from your car(s)?
 

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16s or 17s all around, I never liked mismatched.

Efi and overdrive
 

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16s or 17s all around, I never liked mismatched.

Efi and overdrive
+1. EFI will give you a much flatter, broader torque curve for better 'spirited driving' on curvy roads. Overdrive allows for a lower rear gear (your 3.73s for better acceleration) while still getting good highway mileage.

I'd also go with lower profile tires - 40 or 45 - on larger (17") rims since the more sidewall you have the more flex you have.

Subframes and torque boxes will stiffen it up a lot.
 

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I'm looking at doing the style car as you. I have been reading lately that maybe convertable floorpans and one pice seat riser with torque boxes might be a better way to go than subframe connectors. I think that is the way I'm gonna go. Just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
I'd love to do EFI, but keep coming up with a +$3000 price tag.

I'd also go with lower profile tires - 40 or 45 - on larger (17") rims since the more sidewall you have the more flex you have.
There is quite a lot better selection if I step up to 17s. Wonder if my little 11" brakes will look funny?
 

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I'd love to do EFI, but keep coming up with a +$3000 price tag.



There is quite a lot better selection if I step up to 17s. Wonder if my little 11" brakes will look funny?
Factory ford efi you can find used for the most part. I am running 225/50 16s and love the look. You could probably go 45/17s
 

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I would back down on your rear tire size quite a bit. Big rear tires mean understeer, unless you've got tons of rear roll stiffness or VAST amounts of power to make the car throttle-steerable even in very high speed sweepers. I'm not wild about the look of 17in wheels on the early cars, it's possible to get a 235/45-17 on the front but it takes some caution. I would absolutely NOT go larger than a 255/40-17 in back and even that will require some careful choice of wheel offset.

Poly WHAT in front? If you're running stockish strut rods you do NOT want poly there, run the Moog steel-cup-filled rubber (not the blue TPR) bushings.

EFI is good but it's not the easiest of retrofits.

Full R-model front apron (no bumper) or faux-R-model that keeps bumper? I'm keeping the bumper, I like the R look but the one place on the car I couldn't avoid doing something for appearance's sake, I couldn't stand the idea of putting the apron on there without much more oil cooler than the car really needs so...






Couldn't just plop it on the crossmember as it'd interfere with the AC condenser (no lectures please about the right-angle bulkhead fittings, they should have enough flow and they're what fits ;))

Now, if you'll excuse me, I have to get back out to the shop to see if my shop-vac vacuum-forming rig can suck a sheet of 3/32 ABS down well enough around the plug-mold I made for the air plenum that will mount to the bottom of what used to be the battery tray, after that I'll make the air duct that runs behind the modified right-side bumper bracket to connect it to the side of the oil-cooler duct in the apron.

This was supposed to be a simple car, but it hasn't worked out half that way...
 

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I'd also go with lower profile tires - 40 or 45 - on larger (17") rims since the more sidewall you have the more flex you have.

Subframes and torque boxes will stiffen it up a lot.
Sidewall flex isn't a bad thing, a little more sidewall will help cover up for poor suspension geometry, not to mention the improved ride quality. Just get the rim width right to support the tire properly.

Plus, not an absolute rule of thumb but metal's heavier than air, so a combo with larger-diameter wheels is usually heavier.

My personal opinion is that you want to run the smallest-diameter wheel that'll clear the brakes you want to use, and for which the appropriate-quality tire is available.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
I do like the look of 16 a little better, but seems to be a whole lot more 17/40 tires out there than 16/50. The availability and choice is leading me towards 17 more than look.

Rubber on the strut, as I've heard stiffer increases harshness dramatically. Was thinking poly or roller bearing on LCA. roller spring perch.

Thinking Full R model apron, save a little weight up front.

A/C? What's that? :shrug:Tried ac, didn't like it in mine.
 
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