Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part JUNE's Ride of the Month Challenge!
  • May's Ride of the Month contest ended with a tie! Go to this thread to vote on the winner! VOTE HERE
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 65 mustang with a 351w and the stock 289 exhaust manifolds. I purchased Hedman Header #88660 which is the full length version of the swap headers. The whole exhaust was to be replaced, so I took it to an exhaust shop here in Austin to be built. They just called and said that the headers would not fit due to head-to-shock tower clearance. It sounded like they just measured the area instead of actually fitting the header to the motor. The stock manifolds fit snugly but work, and there are monte carlo bars installed to prevent shock tower sag, so I'm not sure what the problem could be. So my question is: since this is a common swap and I haven't seen any posts where people have had problems with it, should I assume it does work and that the muffler shop is being lazy, or am I missing something important. I'd just like to have a better idea if they can fit before I pull off all the exhaust. Does anyone have any experience with this? Thank you for any help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,044 Posts
Loosen the motor mounts,remove the spark plugs,then lift the engine on the passenger side to install the header from the bottom.Repeat the same procedure on driver's side,then re-attach the mounts.It's been awhile since I did these but that's how I recall doing it.It may be necessary to remove the starter,but I'm not sure...Bad motor mounts can sag and prevent the headers from clearing the shock tower,so check these before you start.Shop around for a real exhaust shop,word of mouth is best...Some of the stuff I've seen recently was pathetic.A customer had a '73 camaro that would hardly run.It ran smooth,but had no power.The exhaust shop had slid the pipe inside the collectors six inches deep and welded it together that way,creating an enormous restriction.They charged him $600 for this job and it didn't even have a crossover pipe...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,488 Posts
I'm betting the exhaust shop tried to just slip the headers in and gave up too soon. The passenger side should slip in fine with starter removed. The driver's side is where they had trouble. The flange needs to enter just below the head. When the cyl 5 tube lines up with the cyl 6 exhaust port the header should then be lifted up and forward clearing the head bolt. That technique has been long in the learning. I get better and better at it everytime. Good luck. Hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,256 Posts
I've read on this forum that the '65 motor mounts seat the engine lower than '66 mounts - so you may have an even tighter fit than I. I just performed the swap on my '66 using '66 mounts and I was REQUIRED to disconnect the motor mount then lift and rotate the motor to install the Hedman 351W Swap Hedders on each side - including passenger. When I installed mine from the bottom, the starter and clutch linkage had been removed.

They're prolly gonna squirt tears when you tell them that, but that's what I had to go through 2 weeks ago. :(
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the tips, they will surely help. If the motor does sit lower, then it seems I will definitely have to rotate it to install the headers. I've replaced the motor mounts (with '65) by using a floor jack and some boards under the oil pan, but how can I rotate the motor without a hoist?

Also, since the car is lowered 1", I thought about changing to the '66 and later mounts to bring the motor up 1" and give the headers more ground clearance. Has anyone used these:
http://store.cal-mustang.com/cm_able/showdetl.cfm?st=0&st2=0&st3=0&CM_SA=0&CATID=19&DID=7&Product_ID=3190&DS_ID=4
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top