All: Could use some help here. I am doing a 6 cyl to 302 conversion with T5 transmission. I am working through + and - of clutch options. I am going with the Borgeson power steering set up and do not want to limit my option of doing a power assist breaks on the 4 wheel disk set up I am using. What I understand is that I have 3 options for clutch set up. I can do the traditional linkage with the Burgeson modified Z bar; I can do a clutch cable; or I could do a hydraulic clutch set up. My concern is making sure I got the space for everything to fit and not have issues with headers and exhaust. From what I read the Burgeson Z-bar set up is somewhat tricky to get aligned/adjusted but works fine if set up properly. It also adds a bunch of moving parts in the engine bay. As to the clutch cable option I have read issues with melting cables. I have watched videos and am concerned with placement on where the clutch cable exits the fire wall and conflict with power break booster if I go in that option. As for the hydraulic clutch option, I have never done or used one of those. Seams to be best option for conserving space in the engine bay and deconflicting with headers/exhaust but you have the issue of hydraulic lines and leaks. Could really use some help from you all that have done this before. Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide.
65 Mustang Clutch Help
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No, car is totally disassembled awaiting paint. Have engine and transmission are on order but have NOT decided on headers and exhaust yet. I have about 5 months to solve remaining issues. Still pretty much a blank canvas and will be able to reassemble in a way that make works.
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I believe the cable option requires you to route it outward then back/down in a large loop. If you're worried about space the hydraulic clutch may be the way to go. Just my thoughts, will be following to see what others think.
1965 Mustang GT. 11.898 @ 113.646, all motor, three pedals
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You‘re changing a LOT of stuff, you WILL to run into fitment challenges. But you‘re doing the right thing by researching ahead of time 👍 just know that whatever you decide to go with won’t simply ‘bolt in’. Acceptance is the first step in recovery 😜
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It's Ok to "think" ahead, but, very foolish to "purchase" ahead. How many stories have you read here regarding folks buying parts and 5 years later or longer they go to install and they don't fit or some other catastrophe. The clutch actuation part can be problematic even when all is installed. When I converted my C4 to T5, available at the time (2010) was the cable, McLeod, and "Z" bar. The hydraulic slave system was still a bit new. I chose the HD rollerized "Z" bar as it was not complicated. There are a number of success stories here with the hydraulic slave system. My '67 eType runs a factory hydraulic system and is very smooth acting. Yeah, headers, in themselves, can be a challenge for clutch systems.
1965 Mustang GT. 11.898 @ 113.646, all motor, three pedals
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Bingo
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1,858 Posts
I dont see how the borgeson z bar has any more moving parts than a standard z bar.
the only place you might have an issue is with the down arm of the z bar with some headers.
I had looked at the hyd setups and decided against it . cable might work with manifolds
I kept the z bar and used bearings and rod ends for the linkage.
Ck with opentracker racing for a z bar that will work with your changes
the only place you might have an issue is with the down arm of the z bar with some headers.
I had looked at the hyd setups and decided against it . cable might work with manifolds
I kept the z bar and used bearings and rod ends for the linkage.
Ck with opentracker racing for a z bar that will work with your changes
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I always try to make things work without making changes (new holes) to the body of the car
I used the Malwood USA hydraulic clutch pedal with a MDL external slave cylinder - IMO it's the best setup. Great pedal feel, easy to install/bleed, and saves a ton of space in the engine bay.
www.malwoodusa.com
MalWood USA 1964-1966 Mustang Hydraulic Master Cylinder Clutch Pedal Kit (Billet Reservoir) - MalWood USA
MalWood's hydraulic clutch pedal kit converts your existing manual clutch pedal or Automatic pedals into a hydraulic system with an easy bolt in install.
www.malwoodusa.com
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It is a nice setup takes the firewall right out of the equation. but they dont tell what slave to use with it or hyd bearing.I used the Malwood USA hydraulic clutch pedal with a MDL external slave cylinder - IMO it's the best setup. Great pedal feel, easy to install/bleed, and saves a ton of space in the engine bay.
MalWood USA 1964-1966 Mustang Hydraulic Master Cylinder Clutch Pedal Kit (Billet Reservoir) - MalWood USA
MalWood's hydraulic clutch pedal kit converts your existing manual clutch pedal or Automatic pedals into a hydraulic system with an easy bolt in install.
master and slave almost $1000 i will keep my z bar
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I’ll keep my cable.
I do like the fact that it is compact.
It appears to reuse the factory supprt bearing and plastic bushings instead of precision sealed bearings like the Mustang Steve setup.
Additional upgrades would make it mo betta as a famous person said to me.😁
I’m not really keen on hydraulic system inside the car…a track car without an interior is perfect.
As for me, I know I would end up with hydraulic fluid (brake fluid, I assume) on the carpet.
Has anyone used the 1965-66 Mustang Hydramax Hydraulic Clutch System for Ford TKX/T5?Ford Magnum/Ford T-56 from American Powertrain? It looks like it solves some problems like keeping the master cylinder in the engine bay and looks pretty straight forward. Also since this will be a new build, any issue with putting together will be simplified since I will mate end and transmission out of the car. Any thoughts?
I found a couple of videos...it uses the original clutch hole and puts the master cylinder on plane with the linkage. Only real challenge is figuring out how many shims for offset. Am a little skeptical when measuring to 1/1000 of an inch!
I also don't understand how you set up a Z bar for T-5 transmission. When I built a Factory Five coup I used a cable and its a "pull" set up and I believe a Z bar results in a "push." Am I missing something? Are you using a different bell housing set up?
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I used my original 4 speed bell housing with an adapter plate to the T5.
If i had used a T5 bell housing there is a fulcrum mount that you bolt into the bell housing and use the 4 speed clutch fork.
I used ball bearings on the pedal support ( simular to mustang steves kit) and rod ends on the linkage
and spherical bearings on the Z bar ( open tracker). I fabed it all including the trans cross member.
the shims i believe are to setup the hyd bearing not hard to do.
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I finally found the old article that describes how to perform this.
T5 Swap, T5 Conversion, Mustang T5 Swap, Auto to Manual Transmission - FordMuscle
T5 Swap, T5 Conversion, Mustang T5 Swap, Auto to Manual Transmission
52.55.101.62
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