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65 Mustang Clutch Help

759 Views 35 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  Nos681, 
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All: Could use some help here. I am doing a 6 cyl to 302 conversion with T5 transmission. I am working through + and - of clutch options. I am going with the Borgeson power steering set up and do not want to limit my option of doing a power assist breaks on the 4 wheel disk set up I am using. What I understand is that I have 3 options for clutch set up. I can do the traditional linkage with the Burgeson modified Z bar; I can do a clutch cable; or I could do a hydraulic clutch set up. My concern is making sure I got the space for everything to fit and not have issues with headers and exhaust. From what I read the Burgeson Z-bar set up is somewhat tricky to get aligned/adjusted but works fine if set up properly. It also adds a bunch of moving parts in the engine bay. As to the clutch cable option I have read issues with melting cables. I have watched videos and am concerned with placement on where the clutch cable exits the fire wall and conflict with power break booster if I go in that option. As for the hydraulic clutch option, I have never done or used one of those. Seams to be best option for conserving space in the engine bay and deconflicting with headers/exhaust but you have the issue of hydraulic lines and leaks. Could really use some help from you all that have done this before. Thanks in advance for any insight you can provide.
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kb65
I dont see how the borgeson z bar has any more moving parts than a standard z bar.
the only place you might have an issue is with the down arm of the z bar with some headers.
I had looked at the hyd setups and decided against it . cable might work with manifolds
I kept the z bar and used bearings and rod ends for the linkage.
Ck with opentracker racing for a z bar that will work with your changes
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kb65
Bob65 said:
No, car is totally disassembled awaiting paint. Have engine and transmission are on order but have NOT decided on headers and exhaust yet. I have about 5 months to solve remaining issues. Still pretty much a blank canvas and will be able to reassemble in a way that make works.
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I always try to make things work without making changes (new holes) to the body of the car
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kb65
cashrayjordan said:
I used the Malwood USA hydraulic clutch pedal with a MDL external slave cylinder - IMO it's the best setup. Great pedal feel, easy to install/bleed, and saves a ton of space in the engine bay.

www.malwoodusa.com

MalWood USA 1964-1966 Mustang Hydraulic Master Cylinder Clutch Pedal Kit (Billet Reservoir) - MalWood USA

MalWood's hydraulic clutch pedal kit converts your existing manual clutch pedal or Automatic pedals into a hydraulic system with an easy bolt in install.
www.malwoodusa.com www.malwoodusa.com

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www.cjponyparts.com
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It is a nice setup takes the firewall right out of the equation. but they dont tell what slave to use with it or hyd bearing.
master and slave almost $1000 i will keep my z bar
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kb65
there are no install instructions or video.
do you need to make new holes in firewall?
does it use the existing clutch rod hole?
for $600 i will keep my z bar
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kb65
Bob65 said:
I also don't understand how you set up a Z bar for T-5 transmission. When I built a Factory Five coup I used a cable and its a "pull" set up and I believe a Z bar results in a "push." Am I missing something? Are you using a different bell housing set up?
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I used my original 4 speed bell housing with an adapter plate to the T5.
If i had used a T5 bell housing there is a fulcrum mount that you bolt into the bell housing and use the 4 speed clutch fork.
I used ball bearings on the pedal support ( simular to mustang steves kit) and rod ends on the linkage
and spherical bearings on the Z bar ( open tracker). I fabed it all including the trans cross member.

the shims i believe are to setup the hyd bearing not hard to do.
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kb65
I used the the toploader bell and plate.
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kb65
I did not like the hyd option they push against the firewall and i had heard the slave cylinder options leak after a while also i am cheap and wont spend that much.

cable too many new holes and still pulls on the firewall. header melting issues

z bar is simple. it is upgrade-able and will work with either bell housing. also less expensive.

All i had to buy to do mine was the spacer / adaptor plate. I modified a stock crossmember.
only thing i would have changed would be to rotate the transmission a couple of degrees ccw to center the shifter better.
Dont forget to ck and fix your bell housing alignment.
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kb65
Flade said:
What’s the best way to check the Bell alignment? Any pics of how you modified the stock crossmember?
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I have to leave now but will send pictures in a couple of hours
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kb65
8
www.moderndriveline.com

HOW TO: Properly Dial-in, Align and Index your Bellhousing - Modern Driveline

Some information to Prevent Unnecessary Power Loss and Wear & Tear with proper bell alignment/indexing
www.moderndriveline.com www.moderndriveline.com

I had to remove the parking brake bracket and mount it between the mount and the transmission so that it was above the exhaust. i dont have a picture of that part.
i cut and welded a square tube to the bottom of the cross member to keep the mount at the original angles when i cut out the center of the cross member.
welded in a 1/4' plate to lower the mount and move it back.

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kb65
Flade said:
Really nice job on that cross member. How did you get the measurements for the modifications?
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measure from your block plate to the center of the transmission mount then measure the same on your new transmission. the difference is how far you need to move the holes on your cross member. It is around 3/4 to1".
then measure from the center of the tunnel down to the center of the output shaft. also from the center of the shaft down to the bottom of the transmission mount.
now on your new transmission measure from the center of the shaft down to the bottom of the transmission mount. the difference is how far down you need move the mounting surface again 3/4 to 1"
when done the measurement from the tunnel to the center of the shaft should be the same as before.
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kb65
Flade said:
Thanks very helpful, did you cut out the center section to fit around the larger trans?
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yes i need to cut the front of the flat plate to clear the bump on the tail hoising
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