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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 65 convertible that was left to me from my grandpa. I've am new to working on cars but am trying to get better. Somewhat often now, I go to start it and the whole thing seems to short out. The only way to fix it is to go and flip the battery disconnect to off, then back on again. I think its related to the solenoid but I'm not certain. Is this something anyone here has dealt with in the past? Thanks!
 

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I have found a couple things that make my 65 vert act weird (no power). One is the headlight switch, and the other is the turn signals in the steering wheel.
The headlight switch, I could jiggle and get power. The sheering wheel, I could turn it back and forth and get power (some times it would shut down while making a turn at low speed).
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have found a couple things that make my 65 vert act weird (no power). One is the headlight switch, and the other is the turn signals in the steering wheel.
The headlight switch, I could jiggle and get power. The sheering wheel, I could turn it back and forth and get power (some times it would shut down while making a turn at low speed).
I have had my car stall while turning the wheel, interesting that you are also seeing that. Maybe I have to start it with the wheels facing forward.... Have to love old cars
 

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Lots of possibilities in regards to your electrical issues. Are you able to check what the alternator is putting out at idle? I would check and clean chassis grounds. The Voltage regulator could be faulty. if you car is stalling when turning the wheel, which I assume you have power steering, it sounds like you might need to increase idle. Might be a good time to pickup a vacuum gauge, check timing, and tweak the carburetor.
 

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Lots of possibilities in regards to your electrical issues. Are you able to check what the alternator is putting out at idle? I would check and clean chassis grounds. The Voltage regulator could be faulty. if you car is stalling when turning the wheel, which I assume you have power steering, it sounds like you might need to increase idle. Might be a good time to pickup a vacuum gauge, check timing, and tweak the carburetor.
It's heading back to the shop this weekend, likely going to rebuild the carb and then tweak the idle. I don't know how I'd check what the alternator is putting out, but I'm sure my guy will know. I'll bring that up. Thank you!
 

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You haven't been descriptive enough. A SHORT is when a hot wire touches something of the opposite polarity. There are usually sparks and if severe enough it melts the wires and insulation. An OPEN circuit is when the electrical path is broken (for whatever reason) and something stops working.
Sooooo, what does yours do exactly? Does the engine stop running?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You haven't been descriptive enough. A SHORT is when a hot wire touches something of the opposite polarity. There are usually sparks and if severe enough it melts the wires and insulation. An OPEN circuit is when the electrical path is broken (for whatever reason) and something stops working.
Sooooo, what does yours do exactly? Does the engine stop running?
Fair point! So to be more specific, this happens when I am trying to start the car. Usually this is the sequence. 1. Attempt to start car (cold), doesn't quite turn over. 2. Attempt 2 it cuts out immediately, lose power. You get roughly one click when you try to start it, but then no power. 3. Exit car, pop hood, unscrew battery disconnect, re-tighten battery disconnect, go back to car, and it generally fires up after that.

Hope this helps! Thank you for your input
 

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I go to start it and the whole thing seems to short out. The only way to fix it is to go and flip the battery disconnect to off, then back on again.
Does this car actually have a "jackknife" switch near the battery? What you are describing sounds exactly like corroded posts and battery cable terminals at the battery. You need to remove both battery cable clamps and using a battery post cleaning tool (circular wire brush) you need to clean the corrosion off of the outside of the posts and inside the battery cable clamps.
 

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I would charge the battery, clean the battery posts, and re-install the battery cables. Do you know how old the battery is? Follow the black battery cable to its attachment point, remove the bolt, clean the area, and reattach. I'm not sure of the engine ground straps on a 65, but on my 69 with a V8, it goes from the passenger side cylinder head to the firewall. If these are loose or missing you'll have trouble. Get back to us if you still have trouble.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I would charge the battery, clean the battery posts, and re-install the battery cables. Do you know how old the battery is? Follow the black battery cable to its attachment point, remove the bolt, clean the area, and reattach. I'm not sure of the engine ground straps on a 65, but on my 69 with a V8, it goes from the passenger side cylinder head to the firewall. If these are loose or missing you'll have trouble. Get back to us if you still have trouble.
Battery is new, virtually no corrosion around that area. Solenoid is within the last 10 years, and the cables coming too/from that are pretty clean as well. I will have to take a closer look at the ground straps. That sounds promising. Thank you!
 
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