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Hey guys,

I have the modern driveline hydraulic clutch kit with a T5 transmission. It has given me a lot of problems. At about 4,000 miles I blew out the slave cylinder, replaced it. 4,000 miles later it is slightly leaking. Also, the linkage that goes from the pedal to the master cylinder never worked right. It was always in a bind and too hard to push for a hydraulic, felt worse than the zbar that was in it but it had to go when I did the 347 engine conversion. I called Modern Driveline, very nice guy on the phone named Jeff I think. He was very helpful and told me that the linkage I have which I bought in 2012 had flaws... yeah no kidding. When you push in the pedal the linkage starts to push in at angles instead straight to the master cylinder. Over time 8000 miles, all the pivot joints have worn out to where it is really bending at an angle now. Not sure why all the pivot points with this linkage. I noticed that MCleod had one straight rod that comes off the pedal, less parts to get worn or to bind up. So I thought about going with the MCleod set up. Then I considered their kit with the hydraulic throwout bearing instead of the external slave. After reading a ton of negative posts about their hydraulic bearing, I am afraid to even try it. Folks are having leaking issues right from the start with those. So I could really use some help here from you guys who have been down this road. If I go with the MCloud clutch pedal to master cylinder kit, is there a great hydraulic throwout bearing that I could use with their kit instead of the one that they sell? I am reading that the Tilton or Howe is a good bearing but I have no clue of what part number I would even need. Also, it looks like it may take a transmission rocket scientist to set one of those up correctly or it will leak if your master cylinder pushes too far or forces too much pressure. What about a great external slave instead. Apparently the one from Modern Driveline is not worth putting in as I am on my second one in 8000 miles. Now, Modern Driveline is sending me improved replacement parts for the linkage from pedal to master cylinder if I want to fix it and just replace the slave cylinder with another brand. Any help here would be appreciated.. thanks guys!

James
 

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I used modern drive lines kit that I bought in late 2014 on my T5 for 4 years without a single issue. Pedal effort was just as light as my 99 ford ranger I used to own (light as a feather) and all the angles for the linkage were spot on with no modification. For what it's worth I did also use their clutch pedal as well instead of modifying the original.

This setup was paired to a Ram HD clutch and it worked flawlessly for 4 years until I converted to a 4r70w. Give MDL another shot. Try their clutch pedal as well. Also consider installing a roller bearing pivot shaft for your pedal assembly if you do not already have one. Best of luck!
 

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Give MDL another shot. Try their clutch pedal as well. Also consider installing a roller bearing pivot shaft for your pedal assembly if you do not already have one. Best of luck!
Agreed. The roller bearing kit is a great investment as well.

However, in full disclosure, I am modifying my MDL kit to remove the linkage at the master and replace it with a straight rod going to a lower hole on the clutch pedal. That's how the Daze cars hydraulic kit installs, which did me well (not great) for some time.

I've now had just about every clutch actuation system available in my car at some point (Z-bar, clutch cable, Daze cars hydro kit, MDL hydro kit...), and ALL of them have their unique issues. Ugh... :frown2:

Good luck!
 

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Agreed. The roller bearing kit is a great investment as well.

However, in full disclosure, I am modifying my MDL kit to remove the linkage at the master and replace it with a straight rod going to a lower hole on the clutch pedal. That's how the Daze cars hydraulic kit installs, which did me well (not great) for some time.

I've now had just about every clutch actuation system available in my car at some point (Z-bar, clutch cable, Daze cars hydro kit, MDL hydro kit...), and ALL of them have their unique issues. Ugh... :frown2:

Good luck!
Like you, I believe the rod should be a straight shot to the master cylinder. Too much linkage, too many pivot points. One solution, and MDL has already done this.... they replaced one of the pivot point pin and clips with an actual shoulder bolt that should hold up much much better. However, I think that the center pivot point that the master cylinder rod hooks to should also have a shoulder bolt but it is a tight area for a nut on the backside of the bolt and that may be why they have not changed that hoping that the lower shoulder bolt will keep things more inline by itself.. I dont know, time will tell. I installed their updated linkage last week and so far it is working fine, but again... we will see.
 

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My setup is a custom one, but I also went with a straight shot. I ended up going through the middle of the 3 round holes (lower one is the factory hole where the manual rod went through). I get a full 1.5" travel on my master and slave cylinders, both are 13/16" bore.
 

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Like you, I believe the rod should be a straight shot to the master cylinder. Too much linkage, too many pivot points. One solution, and MDL has already done this.... they replaced one of the pivot point pin and clips with an actual shoulder bolt that should hold up much much better. However, I think that the center pivot point that the master cylinder rod hooks to should also have a shoulder bolt but it is a tight area for a nut on the backside of the bolt and that may be why they have not changed that hoping that the lower shoulder bolt will keep things more inline by itself.. I dont know, time will tell. I installed their updated linkage last week and so far it is working fine, but again... we will see.
I have the update linkage, but still don't like it. Perhaps this weekend I'll get around to modifying the setup.

Good luck! :yoho:
 

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Just chiming in. I've run a Mustang Steve cable clutch successfully for over 10 years, replaced a cable now and then for $30. I've been better over the years insulating it from heat, hence lasting longer. I ran a hydraulic clutch many years ago and loved it but kept leaking and needed re-bleeding alot.
 

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Just chiming in. I've run a Mustang Steve cable clutch successfully for over 10 years, replaced a cable now and then for $30. I've been better over the years insulating it from heat, hence lasting longer.
Considering that millions of T-5 equipped Mustangs came from the factory this way, this is a "best practices" clutch actuation system for a T-5. That is, unless you have headers and your header tubes are in the way.

Been there, done that... Ugh... :(
 

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Considering that millions of T-5 equipped Mustangs came from the factory this way, this is a "best practices" clutch actuation system for a T-5. That is, unless you have headers and your header tubes are in the way.

Been there, done that... Ugh... :(
Have headers - with some brackets pulling the cable out of direct contact and super insulating it with the latest heat resistant wrap, I'm getting 4-5 years out of a cable
 

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Give MDL another shot. Try their clutch pedal as well. Also consider installing a roller bearing pivot shaft for your pedal assembly if you do not already have one. Best of luck!
Agreed. The roller bearing kit is a great investment as well.

However, in full disclosure, I am modifying my MDL kit to remove the linkage at the master and replace it with a straight rod going to a lower hole on the clutch pedal. That's how the Daze cars hydraulic kit installs, which did me well (not great) for some time.

I've now had just about every clutch actuation system available in my car at some point (Z-bar, clutch cable, Daze cars hydro kit, MDL hydro kit...), and ALL of them have their unique issues. Ugh... <img src="http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/images/Vintage-Mustang_2015/smilies/tango_face_sad.png" border="0" alt="" title="Frown" class="inlineimg" />

Good luck!


I was wondering what issues you had with the daze car setup?
 

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I was wondering what issues you had with the daze car setup?
Issues:

1 - The size combo of the master cylinder and slave cylinder do not give a long enough throw for the slave cylinder to fully disengage the clutch. So you have to add some (i.e. too much) preload onto the clutch fork/throwout bearing to make up for this. If the preload is too much, the clutch slips under hard acceleration. Many have had this issue, many have not, so I guess it also depends on the clutch/pressure plate you are using. I had this issue with the Centerforce Dual Friction clutch.

2 - If you get a one-size larger master cylinder to "fix" the issue above, you now have a very very heavy clutch pedal and driving sucks.

3 - The slave cylinder seal blew out on me once, leaving the system useless - had to call AAA for the rescue. The second slave developed a slow external leak over time.

4 - I went through two master cylinders over a few years, as one eventually developed an external leak and one eventually leaked internally (backflow). I really hate replacing these, as the firewall is very busy in that area in my '67 with a power brake booster and a line lock, and I also hate working on anything under the dash.

I drive my car about 8,000 miles a year in tough L.A. traffic, as it's my daily driver and my only car. So it gets plenty of use and abuse. The Daze cars system "might" work well for a weekend warrior or parade car, but I don't feel that it's designed well enough for every-day driving. I still haven't found one hydraulic clutch kit that is...

If it means anything, I'm going to be pulling the current MDL hydro clutch out of my car soon, as that has its own issues as well. I've decided to go back to the cable clutch for simplicity of design and adjustment, and it's also what the T5 was designed to have. I have to get my headers modified first, as currently one down-tube is too close to where the cable meets the bell and it likes to melt clutch cables. Ask me how I know... :shrug:
 

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However, in full disclosure, I am modifying my MDL kit to remove the linkage at the master and replace it with a straight rod going to a lower hole on the clutch pedal. That's how the Daze cars hydraulic kit installs, which did me well (not great) for some time.
FYI - I did this over the weekend and it resulted in an unreasonably heavy clutch pedal. I don't recommend this at all. So I put the fancy MDL linkage for the master cylinder back in place.
 

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All these issues are why I love my Open Tracker roller Z-bar and hemi-joint linkage setup in my '68 390. Ok, no room for headers and my Ranger 4x4's clutch is lighter, but the setup is wonderful and the pedal is smooth. "Trade-offs" is the key.
 

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I love how all these posts on the short coming of the MDL hydro clutch setup come just after I paid the substantial credit card bill on my T-5 conversion! The slave cylinder on mine is an inch away from the HiPo exhaust and I'm at the end of adjustment on the clutch. Fortunately for me, summer is short and winter is long leaving me plenty of time to make improvements in my heated garage during the very long winter! I plan on enjoying the heck out of it this summer though!
 

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All of these tales of woe concerning hydraulic and cable clutches make me realize how happy I am that I still have a fantastic, trouble free Z-bar clutch!
 

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All of these tales of woe concerning hydraulic and cable clutches make me realize how happy I am that I still have a fantastic, trouble free Z-bar clutch!
I would agree with you, but given my gimpy legs I thought hydro was the way to go for me, and it was, easy peasy clutch actuation. Tinkering is the best part of the hobby. My car has been in one piece for a week and I'm already bored. If I wasn't also broke I'd be on to disc brakes, wheels, and tires.
 

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I have a fantastic and trouble free working MDL hydraulic clutch. Very light, smooth, and consistent pedal effort. I do have an internal slave for the T56 Magnum.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

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Ive got the daze kit.

I liked the cost and the fact I didn't have to cut the firewall. I also liked the lack of unnecessary pivots and joints.

I do not like the lack of throw or the nightmare it was to bleed the thing. Seriously.. I finally got so frustrated that we took it out of the car and bled the whole connected system on the bench. Even that took about a half hour.

We then built a standoff from the firewall so we could get it orientated appropriately. That necessitated a long pedal rod (adjustable) and a lot of cursing making it work under the brake master. I also had to grind on it a bit to get it to clear.

What other options (other than MDL) are there?!!? can the mcleod unit be made to work with the T5? Would a hydraulic TOB work better with the daze clutch master!?
 
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