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Some of the slave cylinder kits tend to side load the piston and this will wear it out. If you can configure a clutch slave so that the rod is a direct push on the piston, they will last much longer. I fabricated a bracket for a Wilwood pull type slave that was bolted to the motor mount. Used a stock type 5.0/T5 throwout bearing and clutch fork. The line of pull was direct and the slave was working well when I sold it 3 years later.
I would agree that the MDL slave cylinder puts side loads on the slave cylinder in all directions and has got to go. I'll be putting a Tilton internal slave cylinder in this winter. I've included pictures of how I originally could not get enough clearance to disengage the clutch "last image" while now I'm at the other end of adjustment "first picture" after a season sometimes trying to start out in second gear to eliminate wheel spin off the line. From one end to the other this slave cylinder setup has been off axis in both the vertical and horizontal planes.

In my opinion the master cylinder end of things is not Rub Goldberg. Straight and short distances if you follow the directions. Still leaking though!
 

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One thing to be aware of, if using a hyd TOB, such as the Tilton. The TOB can be over extended if you use a master that is larger than what is spec'd or one with a longer stroke. What happens is the piston inside the TOB will come out of the bore and oil down the clutch with hydraulic fluid. There are a couple of ways to prevent this, use only the master that MDL says to use, or employ a clutch pedal stop. This is a device that usually attaches to the floor under the clutch pedal and stops it from over extending the TOB. In fact I would recommend a pedal stop even with the recommended master cylinder. As for the leaking master, I don't know. I've used the Wilwood master cylinders in several applications and have never had the problem. Several of the Wilwood masters are a Lockheed design and have been used in British cars for years. They will probably leak after a number of years, but yours shouldn't after only a few years.
 

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This is what I'm talking about. If it doesn't have a straight shot to the clutch fork, it will tend to wear on the side of the bore. that could have been easily prevented by moving it down a fraction of an inch.


This is the one I built for my Cobra, it attached to a Prothane Motor mount in the front with a bracket I made from a piece of angle iron. I never had a problem with it.
I think I could pull off your pulling type slave cylinder with my FPA headers. What brand of slave cylinder did you use?
 

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I think I could pull off your pulling type slave cylinder with my FPA headers. What brand of slave cylinder did you use?
That's a Wilwood slave. The bellhousing is a 5.0/T5 type and the slave rides on loose fit plastic bushing made from the end of a 5.0 clutch cable.
 

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I would agree that the MDL slave cylinder puts side loads on the slave cylinder in all directions and has got to go. I'll be putting a Tilton internal slave cylinder in this winter. I've included pictures of how I originally could not get enough clearance to disengage the clutch "last image" while now I'm at the other end of adjustment "first picture" after a season sometimes trying to start out in second gear to eliminate wheel spin off the line. From one end to the other this slave cylinder setup has been off axis in both the vertical and horizontal planes.

In my opinion the master cylinder end of things is not Rub Goldberg. Straight and short distances if you follow the directions. Still leaking though!
So you're keeping the MDL linkage at the pedal and tossing the slave at the bell? I'm following because I'm going the internal hydro throwout bearing too, but I picked up an American Powertrain Hydramax setup, open box, for a song at Summit Racing Reno. It has a Wilwood m/c and a bracket that gives it a severe downward angle. I'm a ways away from touching this project this winter.

I'd researched it a lot before hand, and am headed this internal route because it seems the internal has more travel than the external slave setup, and do not want the t/o bearing to ride full-time on the diaphragm fingers as some have mentioned. Please let us know what your end result works like Nailbender.
 

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So you're keeping the MDL linkage at the pedal and tossing the slave at the bell? I'm following because I'm going the internal hydro throwout bearing too, but I picked up an American Powertrain Hydramax setup, open box, for a song at Summit Racing Reno. It has a Wilwood m/c and a bracket that gives it a severe downward angle. I'm a ways away from touching this project this winter.

I'd researched it a lot before hand, and am headed this internal route because it seems the internal has more travel than the external slave setup, and do not want the t/o bearing to ride full-time on the diaphragm fingers as some have mentioned. Please let us know what your end result works like Nailbender.
The Mustang is going on the back burner for the near future. Putting the house up for sale after Thanksgiving. I’ll have to address the clutch before next autocross season for sure.
 

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here's my setup. just finished installing. clutch is a ram double disc. throwout bearing is ram for the t5. modern driveline kit. and ram engagement point adjuster. Changed all the fitting to -4an.

The linkage was a little tricky to adjust, for me the system only works in a small adjustment range. In terms of how the system works, after using the modern driveline flushing system to get all the bubbles out (did it 3 times) the system works great together. Full stroke of the clutch pedal give .5" of throwout bearing motion which is how it should be. Going to put the engine in for a test fit so will know how it feels under force soon.

I had an older modern driveline kit with a mcleod throwout bearing and did not like it. Tiring pedal effort needed and engagement was way at the top of the pedal motion. Was not matched very good.

IMG_9632.jpg IMG_9631.jpg IMG_9634.jpg
 

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I've been in love with my hydraulic kit which is much like the Daze cars setup but my master finally died due to the side load. I'm trying to figure out how to fix it without a rube goldberg kit and major relocation. I was going to relocate the pivot point which won't be easy as it looks like the right place is in teh crook of the bend of the pedal. Even if I manage a pivot point there, I then have to go smaller in diameter of the master and I believe I am already at the smallest willwood master 5/8 which means I have to go up on the slave diameter to fix the leverage offset. Anyway that is my cross and calculations I need to do winter.

As for bleeding the system, I find it easiest to remove the master, slave and hydraulic line as a unit and bleed the system on the bench then install it bled.
 

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The hydraulic clutches bleed easy using a large syringe with a size 6 rubber stopper on the end of it. Fill the syringe with brake fluid, open the bleed screw, put the syringe/stopper on top of the reservoir and push the fluid out of the syringe through the system in one steady push, then close the bleed screw. Repeat a second time and its done
 
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