Vintage Mustang Forums banner
  • Hey everyone! Enter your ride HERE to be a part September's Ride of the Month Challenge!
1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings-

Im replacing my ignition switch on my 65 Mustang convertible pictured below with a Painless wiring kit. The current set up doesn't have the insulated switch pig tails but the new set up will. Current set up just has the wiring push pins that push into the back of the ignition switch. The new setup has a rubber piece with the wires built in that need to be joined to the current wires. Problem I have is new pigtail piece didnt come with any instructions and the colors dont match (and you cant tell what colored wires go to what spot on the rubber piece (I cant tell what connection is the yellow wire for example). New piece has two reds and a yellow wire. Old piece has red, yellow, black/brown and grey that would go on center. Thank you!

This the part I purchased:

Also the black connector on the piece below any idea that type of connection name if I need to add to my Painless wires to connect it? Or should I just cut and butt joint?
802148

802149

802150
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38,621 Posts
The YELLOW wire is the power feed from the battery.
The RED lead with a female bullet connector on the end is your "C" terminal and would connect with the PINK resistance wire going to the coil.
The other RED lead (process of elimination) would go to the "S" terminal and connect with the RED/BLU wire going to the solenoid "S" terminal.
Your GRY wire is a non-factory add on that is connected to the center post ("A" terminal) that is hot in "ON" and "ACCY".

I'm guessing somebody has previously bypassed the PINK resistance wire and the BLK/BRN wire is now feeding your ignition system so that would be the wire with the bullet connector. I'd be tempted to get a proper male bullet to replace the slip-on terminal to connect. I'm not a big fan of insulated crimp connectors, either. I use non-insulated terminals, crimp AND solder them and then shrink wrap the connection.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The YELLOW wire is the power feed from the battery.
The RED lead with a female bullet connector on the end is your "C" terminal and would connect with the PINK resistance wire going to the coil.
The other RED lead (process of elimination) would go to the "S" terminal and connect with the RED/BLU wire going to the solenoid "S" terminal.
Your GRY wire is a non-factory add on that is connected to the center post ("A" terminal) that is hot in "ON" and "ACCY".

I'm guessing somebody has previously bypassed the PINK resistance wire and the BLK/BRN wire is now feeding your ignition system so that would be the wire with the bullet connector. I'd be tempted to get a proper male bullet to replace the slip-on terminal to connect. I'm not a big fan of insulated crimp connectors, either. I use non-insulated terminals, crimp AND solder them and then shrink wrap the connection.
Thanks for info. Is the below correct based on my last picture above of current wires going to ignition:
Black/Brown (from car) goes to red with black connector on pigtail
Yellow goes to yellow on pigtail
Last red goes to red on pigtail
Grey cable goes on post?
Im afraid to mess this up and zap something.

I assume I could just skip the pig tail connector and plug directly into new ignition switch but trying to do this right. I have a weird issue every so often where I turn the key and the solenoid only gets 8V and should be getting 12 and the car wont start. Hoping this swap eliminates that issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38,621 Posts
Thanks for info. Is the below correct based on my last picture above of current wires going to ignition:
Black/Brown (from car) goes to red with black connector on pigtail
Yellow goes to yellow on pigtail
Last red goes to red on pigtail
Grey cable goes on post?
Im afraid to mess this up and zap something.

I assume I could just skip the pig tail connector and plug directly into new ignition switch but trying to do this right. I have a weird issue every so often where I turn the key and the solenoid only gets 8V and should be getting 12 and the car wont start. Hoping this swap eliminates that issue.
Right....

Um, WHERE are you checking at the solenoid and only getting 8 volts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
93 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Right....

Um, WHERE are you checking at the solenoid and only getting 8 volts?
Mechanic said he tested below circled and I replaced the solenoid and the starter to troubleshoot. Very sporadic and if you let it sit for 30 mins it usually ends up starting. When it happens you turn key, hear nothing but lights and radio work.

802157
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top