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I JUST BOUGHT A 65 IT HAS A 6CYL. WE WANT TO PULL THE 6 AND DROP IN A 289. WHAT ALL DO WE NEED TO DO TO THE FRONT AND REAR END OF THE CAR TO MAKE THIS WORK. THIS IS A FATHER AND TWO SON PROJECT, AND I NEED HELP. THIS 65 WILL BE A BEAUTY WHEN SHE'S DONE. THE CAR WAS BOUGHT IN 65 DROVE 83000 MILES BY 1985 AND SOLD THEN DROVE ANOTHER 3100 MILES IN 85-86 AND THE BRAKES WENT BAD AND HAS BEEN PARKED EVER SINCE IN A CHICKEN HUT. SHW AWESOME THE INTERIOR NEEDS NOTHING AND THE BODY IS GREAT ONLY ONE RUST SPOT. THE TRUNK AND TANK ARE SOLID AND THE DOORS LOOK AND FEEL LIKE NEW. THIS CAR WAS SO BABYIED IT'S NOT FUNNY. SO PLEASE YOU GUYS OUT THERE THAT COULD HELP, PLEASE HELP US. WE WOULD ALL OWE YOU A GREAT DEAL IF YOU COULD. STEVE YOU CAN REACH ME AT [email protected]
 

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Welcome to the forum Steve.

How about expand on your bio a bit so we can know you better.

By the way, all caps in a message is the same as yelling at the top of your lungs to every reader. Something you didn't intend I'm sure. Some of us are old(er) but the hearing is still ok.
 

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First of all, you'll need a V-8 (obviously). But it doesn't have to be a 289. It could also be a 302, 351W, or 351C. A 302 is nearly the same size as a 289, and a 351W is obviously larger than the other windsor series engines. A 351C is not as common of a swap due to slightly larger size and smaller aftermarket parts availability. Now onto the swap...

Front springs will need replacement. Those I-6 springs were not designed to support the extra weight of a V-8.

Motor Mounts for a V-8 engine

You'll need want a beefed up transmission and rearend, a good solid 8" or 9" rearend is the best bet. Again, these components were made for a sixpot, not a V-8.

Instead of going on forever, here is a good source:

www.geocities.com/MotorCity/3573/Special/67I6tov8.htm
 

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Try this site - it will get you started.

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/3573/Special/6to8.htm

In general, try the search function first. It's amazing how many times you think what you are looking for is unique but it has been cussed and discussed repeatedly! :)

Good luck with your project. I have heard the old found in a barn story before, but found in a chicken coop? That's a new one by me.

Frank
 

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Generally a I6 to V8 swap requires replacing the steering system, most of the suspension, the tranny, the driveshaft, the rear end, and the radiator.

You can keep the upper and lower control arms and the strut rods.

Generally it is advised to just sell the I6 car and use the proceeds to buy a V8 car - it is usually a lot less costly and you save a lot of time. Further, when you go to sell the car the engine will match the VIN number, whereas if you do the swap the VIN will always show that it is an I6 car that's been modified. So even though you will have done more work, it will be worth less on the market.

Best of luck to you whatever you decide to do. :)
 

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Personally if the unibody is really solid, I'd do the 6 to 8 swap. The parts are relatively inexpensive if you shop around. Just remember the I6 parts that come off will be worth nearly nothing unless someone is wanting to perform a factory date code matching restoration. You could always restore the pulled parts and keep them if you decide to sell later. A standard swap requires no cutting and no drilling. Just a lot of wrenching, bloody knuckels and sweat.
 

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Just an arcane bit of lost history: The car that was on the pole and won the first-ever Trans Am race (Sebring, FL - 1966) was prepared and driven by a privateer and started life as a 64 1/2 6 cylinder coupe. Something to think about for those interested in doing an authentic clone of an early T/A racer.

Later,
Chris
 

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Welcome to the forum Steve! A vintage Mustang is a great activity for the family -- fixing it or driving to a club event. Good luck with your swap!!

BTW... "stored in a chicken coop"? -- your car is not now uhhhh, uhhhhh, WHITE is it?? ::
 
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