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Discussion Starter #222 (Edited)
I didn’t realize the Ron Morris mounts could be adjusted up and down. Mine are left to right and front to back, but no up and down. I could be wrong.
@patrickstapler Yes, there’s an extra set of frame plates you can buy for $45 - either Standard or Lowered height. These are on the Ron Morris website.

Ideally I go lower setting but that massive Canton oil pan and the header tubes (which have been a royal PITA so far) may dictate otherwise...
 

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Discussion Starter #223

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Discussion Starter #224 (Edited)
In a prior post there was a beautiful Be Cool 24” polished aluminum radiator for a ‘67 Mustang that I was going to use. Unfortunately the shape of the lower radiator tanks makes the top radiator tank sit above the core support, so I’m concerned about hood clearance at the radiator cap.

There are differences in ‘67 Mustang radiator dimensions if you study the spec sheets. A Northern aluminum radiator for a ‘67-‘68 Mustang is actually over 1” shorter than the Be Cool version - all in the tank design. Internally, it has 2 rows and 1” tubes so it should move enough coolant along with the extra 8” of core width to keep things cool.

For fans and shroud, I went with a SPAL off the shelf dual puller fan setup with ~2,800 CFM that includes a black plastic shroud. The shroud is very close to the dimensions on the back of the radiator.

Required a bit of dremel tool clearance work around the radiator outlet. The shroud is attached to 1/2” aluminum square tubes and sections of 1” aluminum angle.

For ~$500 all in, I’m happy with it.

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To this wide radiator setup installed, the core support opening has to be enlarged (Mustang Steve has good photos and directions). I’ll have a 1/2” gap between core support and the radiator face, so I’ll use a very small press on rubber bulb seal or rubber blade to close the gap.

The lower mounting will be generic Northern lower radiator saddles, shimmed up a bit to get radiator at correct height and then spot welded to the top of the strut rod brackets. Will just bolt the top of the radiator side flanges thru the core support and shim with a couple of spacers.

Probably going to scuff the aluminum on the top tank down to a dull grained finish or maybe paint the top tank and sides satin black.

The radiator was touching the stock ‘65 battery tray location, so that’s getting modified.

Will save the battery setup and overflow tank solution for later posts...
 
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Discussion Starter #225
And this bit of engine bay jewelry just showed up: Ford Powertrain Applications custom tube headers ceramic coated and setup to fit a cable clutch installation.

Stan at FPA is very focused on getting you exactly what you need. We spent over 30 mins on 2 different phone calls discussing my engine, related components, and my intended use so he could spec these headers. They are every bit the quality of the JBA headers I sent back (bc they do NOT fit), but these FPA headers should actually fit without any shock tower modifications and probably flow better too.

For those familiar with FPA will note that I did not select the “step” header option (larger tubes) as I’ve been having shock tower clearance issues with two different prior header selections. And Stan was even able to tweak the angle where the tube meets the flange to gain me a bit more shock tower clearance along the tube length.

Keeping with my no-bling ‘60s era stock(ish) build theme, the headers are ceramic coated dark gray.

FPA includes all the hardware too, but I may elect to use locking header bolts. My plan right now is to install the engine + headers and the rear JBA side exhaust mufflers and pipes. Then custom fab the center section with an X pipe and band clamps (so I can easily swap to straight pipes for track use).

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I've really been giving FPA and thought when it comes to ordering my headers. I have been hearing nothing but good things about them. Stan and I were playing phone tag for a while but I let him know I was in no hurry as I am many months away from needing headers. But he did reach out to me after I emailed FPA asking questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #228
I love the new ceramic finish color.
Me too. Very happy with quality and color of the ceramic coating. The pics show the color a bit lighter, almost silver due to the sunlight...but they are a medium to dark gray color. Looks like new raw clean steel.

Exactly the understated look I’m after in the engine bay. To quote my engine guy “When you open the hood, people are going to think it’s stock...until you start it.” Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #231 (Edited)
A 24" wide radiator setup like above creates OEM battery location fitment issues in a 1965 engine bay. So if you plan to do this radiator upgrade, you have to rethink your battery and battery location to provide enough radiator clearance.

Thought about relocating a standard size battery (~44 lbs) to the trunk. That’s going to require a lot of extra work. Not to mention installing ~12' run of heavy copper wire will add more weight (~7 - 8 lbs) on a car where I’m already trying to reduce overall weight. The rear of a '65 Mustang can use more weight for better balance as a '65 R Model has a 55% front / 45% rear weight distribution. However, this car will now have capacity for 22 gallons of fuel (+6 gallons extra = +36 lbs) and a steel cover (Tank Armor = +35 lbs) over the gas tank. Since I've already added >70 lbs of weight to the rear, I don't think moving another 30 - 40 lbs more the rear - that sits out past the rear axle - is the best solution.

Initially my plan was to resize and relocate the battery tray and install an Optima 25 sealed battery (~31 lbs). So I trimmed down a '67 battery tray to fit an Optima and made different brackets to support the tray and provide room to clear the 3" brake air ducts from the front bumper that will run through the engine bay (right where the OEM Ford battery tray bracket bolts to the fender apron). It would all work, but would be a very tight fit and the Optima 25 only saves ~13 lbs of weight over the current battery.

The car will have minimal electrical accessories. Only the ignition/starter, MSD box, headlights, taillights, turn signals, dash gauges + lights, cigarette lighter (for mobile phone charging), and wipers. Reduced down to just those items, not sure I need a large capacity battery especially here in warm southern California (no need for a high CCA battery). An original mid-1960s Mustang probably came with a battery that had 200-300 CCAs.

As I researched batteries, I came across lithium ion batteries by Anti-Gravity Batteries. It would provide dramatic reductions both in battery size (smaller than Group 26) and weight savings (<5 lbs!) while delivering for 900 CCAs! But the price as well as concerns with lithium ion batteries outlined in this VMF thread talked me out of using it.

So my battery requirements came down to:
  • battery & tray location = engine bay
  • maximum size = 9.5" L x 7" W x 9" H
  • type = sealed or dry cell battery (avoid wet cell if possible...no lithium ion)
  • weight = reduce battery weight from current 44 lbs
  • CCAs = minimum CCA req'd to reliably start a modified V8
  • price = keep battery and related items <$200
The battery options that meet above requirements came down to the following:
  • Odyssey PC925T: 330 CCA, 6.5" L x 7" W x 5.75" H, 23.8 lbs, $205
  • Odyssey PC925LMJT: 330 CCA, 6.6" L x 7" W x 5.8" H, 23.8 lbs, $225
  • Odyssey PC680MJT & PC680HDC: 170 CCA, 7.3" L x 3.1" W x 7.5" H, 15.4 lbs, $155
  • Optima 9025-160: 720 CCA, 9.3" L x 6.75" W x 7.7" H, 32 lbs, $199
  • Optima 9073-167 (D51R): 450 CCA, 9.3" L x 5" W x 9" H, 26 lbs, $199
  • XS Batteries #S545: 243 CCA, 7" L x 3.4" W x 5.1" H, 11.2 lbs, $149
  • XS Batteries #S975: 532 CCA, 7.8" L x 5.3" W x 6.7"H, 28.5 lbs, $241
  • Dyna Batt #5575B: 280 CCA, 7" L x 3" W x 6.5" H, 13.5 lbs, $159
  • Enersys Genesis G16EP: 280 CCA, 7" x 3" x 6.5", 15 lbs, $100 (note: requires a pair of SAE M6x1.0 thread post which will add ~$15 to the battery cost)
  • O'Reilly #ETX18L: 340 CCA, 8.1" L x 3.6" W x 6.5" H, 18 lbs, $109 (note: smallest wet cell battery...not sealed)
There's probably other battery options if you are willing to use a wet cell battery, don't care about reducing battery weight, or want to get into swapping/grafting the '65-'66 passenger side battery tray fender apron from a '67+ model or fabricating your own slightly deeper battery shelf and pocket. But my 24" wide radiator and stock '65 inner fender dictates my max battery length of 9.5", which leaves ~1.5" clearance from the radiator, if you keep the battery in the stock location and orientation.

From what I found, the Odyssey PC680 / Dyna Batt / Enersys Genesis G16EP all seem to be the exact same battery just rebadged under different brands. There are a few articles on the Dyna Batt, including this Ford Muscle article quoting a 280 CCA for Dyna Batt...and this very technical (and dated) Dodge Stealth page also outlining a 280 CCA Genesis/Odyssey 280 CCA rating. Yet Odyssey officially rates the PC680 at 170 CCA. Maybe someone can enlighten me as to why the same battery is CCA rated differently...

Regardless, the Odyssey/Dyna/Genesis battery meets all of my requirements. And it seems a lot of people have had success with this battery (even in daily driven cars). The size of the battery is smaller than the existing battery shelf on the '65-'66 fender apron, so it definitely eliminates any of my radiator clearance concerns too.

Here's a photo of a Dyna Batt installed in an early Mustang in the stock battery location:
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As I don't wish to continue with more battery tray modifications, bracket fabrication, and welding, I went looking for an off the shelf battery tray. Options aren't plentiful (like an Optima), but D.U.I. (the company that markets Dyna Batt) makes a bracket for the Dyna Batt, but it's expensive at $89 and its made from steel (adds back weight). See the bracket in the above photo.

With a little digging around for an Odyssey PC680 battery bracket, on eBay I found aluminum battery brackets - both a "solid" one for $34 and a "lightened" one for $48. The lightened one (as if aluminum already wasn't light enough) has holes punched in it that are honeycomb shape which basically echoes the shapes within the '65 Mustang honeycomb grille. Nice.

Turns out the same vendor that makes the aluminum battery bracket also has a battery package: Odyssey 680 + SAE brass terminals + lightened battery bracket = $167 with free shipping. Score!

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So I'm losing ~30 lbs of battery weight (vs. current size battery), gaining the clearance needed for the radiator and brake air duct tubes, and keeping the battery up front in the OEM stock battery location.

That makes -80 lbs now off the front (-30 lighter battery, -50 aluminum heads) and +70 lbs added to the rear (more fuel, steel tank cover) which results in a lot of weight moved around the car. That has to help improve the original R Model's 55/45 weight distribution. Even if only a little bit.
 

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I wound up buying the hold down kit from odyssey. Too much money but I thought it looked good. I had it powder coated black. Don’t have a pic but here is the tray.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #233
Finally got around to ordering custom sized u-bolts for the rear tow hooks.

Just need to sand, prime, then paint it red. Will probably just use rubber plugs and silicone for the other 4 bumper holes.

Total of $35 for 2 ubolts, 8 washers, 8 nuts, & shipping = $17.50 per tow hook.

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Included website, part #s, bolt dimensions in the last photo in case anyone is interested.

Not too bad of a price considering the small fortune spent on the front Ford Motorsport round tow hooks.
 
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Discussion Starter #234
Since my car came with Granada spindles and an extra pair of brand new Granada calipers, I’m just going to run those for now with Porterfield pads from OTR.

Of course, no one makes brake cooling air duct kits for Granada spindles.

Ordered 3” aluminum flanges from Aircraft Spruce and trimmed them down to fit on the splash shield. Then made a few cuts to the Granada splash shields and after some cutting, hammer, & dolly work I now have air ducts flanges that will be riveted to the shields.

Still need to weld up the “T” slots that I had to cut into the shields (to trim out the OEM vent), but it should all clean up nicely

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Only opened up ~2/3 of the duct opening so I can feed air primarily into the center hub and the out the vanes of the rotor. Not onto the rotor perimeter where the pads clamp down (read somewhere that could contribute to warped rotors).

The fender aprons will have another pair of aluminum flanges on each side of the apron to attach 3” high temp flex tube (again from Aircraft Spruce). The tube runs through the engine compartment and is fed from the air duct openings in the front R Model valance.
 
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