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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
While my first post on VMF, not new to restorations or builds. In addition to multiple restorations over the years, I’ve also built an FFR Cobra that took 3rd place in the FFR Nationals. But my hope is re-working this car will be much easier...

This time I wanted something fun for the weekends in the same vein as the Cobra, but with a backseat so I can take my 3 sons out and hopefully turn them into gear heads too. After looking for months, I picked up a Wimbledon White 1965 Mustang Fastback. Planned use is mostly street driving in SoCal with some light track use at times.

It’s a quasi-survivor car. All original sheet metal tub with no major rot. Exterior repainted once it seems in late 80s.

More details:

EXTERIOR
  • Wimbledon White
  • Bright Red Interior (yuck)
ENGINE
  • 289 V8 engine, bored .030 over (sourced from ‘67 Cougar)...originally a straight six cylinder “T code” car
  • stock heads rebuilt with hardened seats
  • Edelbrock Performer 289 intake
  • Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb with #1405 manual choke
  • Edelbrock Performer cam & lifters
  • Carter electric fuel pump
  • 1966 style V8 Motor Mounts
IGNITION
  • Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor
  • Pertronix Flamethrower II coil
  • Ford Racing wires
  • NGK u-groove plugs
UNDERHOOD
  • Export brace
  • Curved monte carlo bar (to clear the above distributor)
  • New underhood wiring
  • 4 row radiator
  • overflow tank
EXHAUST
  • Hedmann long tube headers
  • Dynomax X-pipe
  • Spintech mufflers turned 90* down
TRANSMISSION & REAR END
  • '67 toploader 4-speed (sourced from ‘67 Cougar)
  • 8 inch V8 rear end, 3.25 ratio (also sourced from ‘67 Cougar)
SUSPENSION
  • 620lb front coil springs on GT 5 lug V8 spindles
  • GT rear leaf springs
  • KYB shocks
  • Heavy duty shackles w/poly bushings
  • 1" front sway bar
  • 3/4" rear sway bar
  • American Racing 16" x7" polished torque thrust II's
  • rear lowering block 3/4” - 1”
BRAKES
  • Granada front disc brakes
  • Standard V8 rear drums
  • Dual master cylinder
  • Wilwood prop valve
INTERIOR
  • standard seating, carpets, door panels (all red color)
  • LeCarra wood/aluminum steering wheel w/polished hub
  • 2 speed wipers & window washer option
  • early 2 speed heater switch
  • Autometer mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauges
  • Sunpro tach
  • AM/FM cassette, 4x6 door speakers w/factory grills, rear 6x9 speakers in custom panel; original panel not cut and also included with car
LIGHTING
  • Glass Delta headlights with H3 80/100 watt bulbs
  • High output headlight relay system
  • LED taillights with electric flasher unit
Plans are for some additional modifications to create a Shelby GT350 Tribute.

Likely a cross between a ‘65 GT350 (street) and the Competition version or “R model”).

Plan:

- convert entire interior to black (from red and white)

- black carpet...while R Models have no carpet, my plan is to keep for heat and noise reduction purposes

- Torque Thrust wheels...15x7" front and 15x8" rear with 215 front and 235 rear tires (rear rolled fenders)

- convert hood & front apron over to Shelby R model fiberglass parts

- remove front & rear bumpers

- route exhaust to exit at side

- rear window converted to vented Plexiglas R model version

- Shelby dash gauge pod

- replace side vents with aluminum blockoff panels

- upgrade to larger 22 gallon fuel tank

- ‘67 Shelby style roll bar (removable cross-brace)

- vintage looking front head lights

- LeMans and GT350 style side stripes

- and much more...
 

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Whoa.....Mustang emblems are way...way off on both Front Fenders... Obviously noone bothered to reference a "Correct" car.... Car is nice otherwise though...

:eek:)

Tony K.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Whoa.....Mustang emblems are way...way off on both Front Fenders... Obviously noone bothered to reference a "Correct" car.... Car is nice otherwise though...
Thanks Tony. Yes, like I said it's driver quality. While it's a solid, rust free CA car the front fenders were replaced over 20 years ago, so whoever installed the emblems took some liberties. If funds allow, and vintage racing rules too, I'd like to swap the front fenders for fiberglass ones anyway...slightly more tire clearance and it would lighten the car.

Truth be told, the emblems could be upside down or even missing. I'm not a "K Code" or "A Code" or "GT" or "all original" kind of guy. Never have understand the fuss over spending a ton of extra money for an authentic, numbers matching, option specific car. Which is why I went looking for a converted "T Code" car.

For the most part, I'll be researching and building up to G.T. 350 R specs...
 

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Many times I wish I had bought a running driver and upgraded along the way. Looks like a great car.

There are a few of us Cobra guys here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Hey, my car has 15 yr old patina!
Ummmm...I’ve seen your car. You might want to reread this.

pa·ti·na
/pəˈtēnə/Submit
noun
a green or brown film on the surface of bronze or similar metals, produced by oxidation over a long period.
a gloss or sheen on wooden furniture produced by age and polishing.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks for the input and suggestions on the suspension. Keep offering those ideas up. I'm still new to these old Mustangs and have a lot to learn.

The newer ignition and distributor cap won't allow for a straight Monte Carlo bar, hence the curved one. Now that you mention it, simple physics there cant be anywhere near the rigidity as straight one...so better than nothing but not great. I've seen other MC bars that have 4 attachment points and move the straight bar slightly forward.

As far as racing, I'd simply like to get it out on the track as well as run some rallys with it. I'm not expecting to be super competitive as I won't have the $$ high end parts (billet cranks, etc) or the time to go to the track every weekend. etc etc.

The car really is a ten footer. In those pics it was prepped to sell. Up close you'll see quite a bit of paint imperfections. Open the trunk and it's 50+ year old paint and all the wear and tear that comes with it. Look underside and it's original except for suspension and exhaust. Engine bay is clean, but below the heads there's built up dirt and grease.

Maybe "patina" isn't the right word (haven't looked at that other thread but I guess it's clear coated surface rust or simulated rust). That's not at all what I meant.

Guess what I mean is I won't be building a show piece. Unlike my Cobra, I'm not going to spend days trying to get perfect door panel gaps or precise hood alignment or painting the car to achieve 36"+ of gloss depth.

It'll be primarily bolt-on and go have fun.
 

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So, I’m/we’re just trying to understand the use of your car before we indulge in spending your money

Am I correct then in saying, you want to open track/hpde and rally your car vs w2w vintage racing?

Btw, I think the car is awesome as is!


Mark
 

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Ummmm...I’ve seen your car. You might want to reread this.

pa·ti·na
/pəˈtēnə/Submit
noun
a green or brown film on the surface of bronze or similar metals, produced by oxidation over a long period.
a gloss or sheen on wooden furniture produced by age and polishing.
or
https://petrolicious.com/articles/what-is-patina
or
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=patina
or
http://mycarquest.com/2011/10/patina-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly.html
 

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Ummmm...I’ve seen your car. You might want to reread this.

pa·ti·na
/pəˈtēnə/Submit
noun
a green or brown film on the surface of bronze or similar metals, produced by oxidation over a long period.
a gloss or sheen on wooden furniture produced by age and polishing.
So it’s shiny patina.




Mark
Go ahead, hi-jack the thread...

Allen
 
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