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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Mark’s does look good, though. U-bolt would work, just not as much cool factor, plus no paint protection from the hook, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #182
Pulled the R Model front apron off so we could finish welding the front tow hook and clean off yet more tar undercoating.

While I knew the strut rod brackets and radiator support crossmember were covered in tar, on closer inspection I think they are covered in that tar junk to hide that they are bent and twisted.

What’s worse is the radiator support was not connected to the driver side frame rail extension in any way. Plus, where it was connected on the passenger side, it appears to have been brazed. And the strut rod brackets were just brazed back on with little regard to correct OEM measurements.

Sigh...amateur repair. Now I’ll have to replace the strut rod brackets and radiator support crossmember as I have no confidence in these parts being accurate and who knows what I’ll find under all that tar...

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Discussion Starter #185 (Edited)
@patrickstapler Because I can’t decide to delete or keep the heater for the benefit of the defroster. Not at all liking the idea of heater hoses running thru my engine compartment. But no defroster on the street does not seem like a good idea. Yeah, I could use a towel to wipe the window. But 90% of the drive time will be on the street.

Thought a bit more coolant capacity with the heater would help justify keeping it. But I just picked up a 24” Cold Case radiator for a 1967-1970 Mustang, so coolant capacity isn’t going to be an issue.

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Going to be a shame to paint over this nice aluminum, but I’m trying to keep things as period correct in appearance as much as I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #186 (Edited)
Grrrr. Brand new (a.k.a. expensive) Holley 4150 HP 830 cfm carb...WTH!?!?! Did the Quality Control Dept take the afternoon off???

Overall not impressed with the casting or weight of it either. Think for the same money may look at a FST carb with a billet housing or some other carb.

There goes my dyno run for this week while this thing gets returned...

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Spammer Hammer
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Spammer Hammer
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Yes. OTS...OOTB...all the same. Just like the cam needs to be tuned to the heads flow, the carb needs to be sized and tuned to the whole package. If that engine package flows enough for 830CFM at 90% volumetric efficiency and higher, I would like the see the Supporting flow data. That’s NASCAR range.
 

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Discussion Starter #190 (Edited)
@patrickstapler like you, my engine builder was not impressed at all with this OTS Holley carb. He said as he was taking it out the box he was really disappointed...called it a "mass produced piece of garbage"...then saw it was missing part of the booster...simply sent me those pics and immediately put it back in the box.

We aren't trying to shove a high CFM carb onto this engine. My engine guy is an old friend who assembled the engine in my prior Cobra (a SBF 302 that dynoed 350 hp at the rear wheels with stock bottom-end). He builds NASCAR Cup Series engines everyday for a living and routinely meets with Ford Performance engineers to provide input on engine design.

So, if he says get him a 750-830 CFM carb (nothing more...nothing less) I'm inclined to take his advice. To your point, his plan has always been to tune and re-jet the carb on the dyno prior to doing any high RPM pulls or the break-in session.

Clearly, he's used to using high end racing parts...hence his aversion to the OTS Holley which was selected by me. After doing some research it seemed like the SBF track crowd liked the Holley HP 4150 carb, so that drove my selection...and he suggested mechanical secondaries, no choke, and annular boosters.

We discussed Bill Pink Carburetors and even Pro Systems carbs, but he wasn't overly complimentary of either shop. He was really pushing me to go Holley Sniper EFI Stealth 4150 (driveability and constantly optimizes fuel delivery). But I don't want anything to do with EFI on this car. Seems like a lot of SBF guys are having too many issues with the Sniper setup. My goal is a (mostly) period correct non-EFI car.

At this point he's recommending either a 750 CFM BLP Racing Products carb kit that he would design and spec (his co-worker would build and wet flow test it...that guy builds and tunes Cup Series carbs for a living) or a FST Carburetors Billet Xtreme carb and he would tune and re-jet it on the dyno.

FST seems similar to the SMI Carburetors option you are recommending (aluminum housing, billet metering blocks, etc). Thanks for the tip and will look into that option too.
 

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Your man should know his stuff. I wish you the best and look forward to seeing he results. My SMI performed really well on the dyno and at the track. Sean was the lead engineer at JET for twenty years or so. Mark has had really good success with the Siebert carbs over the years. Those are two first hand experiences to work from.
 

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Discussion Starter #192
More progress pics...the welding is not finished on these parts yet. When done I’ll need to clean everything up with a sanding flap disc, prime, and paint.

These are SpinTech sub frame connectors. They required a ton of trimming at the rear frame rail to fit tight and not hang down too far (need clearance for side exit exhaust pipes). Very minimal trimming at the front and they snugged up around the recently welded in front torque boxes nicely. Guess I need to drill a drainage hole towards the rear of the SFC...or seam seal up where the floor pan has a bead roll.

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And these are USCT rear torque box reinforcements. Only tack welded into place for now. They fit nice right out of the box with minimal trimming. But I had to cut the inner flange off to fit tight to the subframe connectors. When complete they will sit flush with the rear of the subframe connectors.

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The car is sitting level on a two post lift with 4 jackpads supporting it. After tacking in the rear torque plate reinforcement, we put the transmission jack on the passenger rear subframe connector at the frame rail area below where the rear leaf spring bolts in. Then just barely raised that corner 1/4” to reposition the rear passenger jackpad. Not only did the passenger rear lift...but the passenger front ALSO lifted off its jackpad...AND the driver rear lifted off its jackpad too!

With the SFCs and rear torque box reinforcements, that’s the first time we raised more than 1 corner at time! Very impressed with how much rigidity the unibody is gaining!

It’s been slow process with just a small amount of welding each day. Clearly worth it. And the doors still open and close nicely.
 
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Discussion Starter #194
@patrickstapler thanks. Would have looked even better if not for the never ending supply of tar undercoating. Even when you think its all clean and the tar is gone, it seeps out of the crevices when the panels heat up from the welding. :/
 

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Oh man! I really dig those rear torque box reinforcements. I wonder if they'd sell just the rears and not the front and rear kit!! Did you get their strut rod bracing too??
 

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Discussion Starter #196
@Rowdy yes they package as a set of 4 for front and rear on their website or with their subframe connectors. But I’m running OEM front torque boxes and SpinTech SFCs. If asked USCT will discount the price of the torque box set by $130 and just sell you the rears. You need to speak to someone in sales to get just the rears. To my knowledge, no one else makes early Mustang rear torque box reinforcements.

My rear torque boxes are now reinforced bottom with these USCT plates and topside with another plate my roll bar is welded to in the interior.

And yes I have USCT’s strut rod bracket reinforcement plates too. Those will go in with all new strut rod brackets (repros are thicker gauge steel) and a new reinforced radiator lower crossmember support.
 
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Thats awesome! My rusty project is getting as much reinforcement as it can. The blue car has the stock torque boxes and gussets, plus the shock tower plates from open tracker and I have some Tin man SFC's to install after I replace the badly mangled Drivers floor support (previous owners screw up).

Those look like just the ticket for the rear on both cars. Didn't know they existed and now I'm gonna open up the ol' wallet! Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #198
Have I mentioned how much I hate undercoating??? Will never remove a Mustang’s undercoating again without just stripping it to a bare shell and having it blasted.

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On a positive note I finally sprayed part of the bottom with primer and topcoat yesterday...
 
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Discussion Starter #200
Really happy with the quality of the Fuel Systems Technology Billet Xtreme 750 carb that replaced the Holley HP 830 carb.

Only disappointment is it doesn’t look vintage gold anodized. Shame to have to hide it under the air cleaner.

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And in my quest for a ‘60s correct appearance we also tried to run a stock distributor. That resulted in an aborted dyno run as we couldn’t get enough advance for the big cam...

...so the stock distributor was replaced with a MSD billet distributor. Hopefully the short height of the housing will clear the straight Monte Carlo bar (the Pertronix Flamethrower on my old 289 was a flag pole by comparison). Really like the black powdercoat as it furthers my quest for a no bling engine.

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