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Spammer Hammer
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Just installed that distributor yesterday. Plenty of clearance under the straight Monte Carlo bar. What intake manifold are you using? The housing will not clear the ‘A’ on the COBRA intake.

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Discussion Starter #203 (Edited)
@Turnall we finally got a decent dyno run in today!!!

To recap the engine for everyone:
  • 347 stroker built on an OEM Ford spec ‘71 Mexican block
  • all forged SRP/JRE internals connected to an 11.5# Centerforce aluminum billet flywheel
  • Brodix IDF heads (hand ported and polished)
  • Blue Thunder COBRA intake (ported to match JBA headers and divider plane partially cut down)
  • custom grind COMP cam (a ROLLER cam not flat tappet)
  • T&D roller rockers
  • FST 750 carb
  • 9 quart Canton pan
Dyno setup & environment:
  • Dyno: Superflow panel with DST brake; 8 oxygen sensors to confirm cylinder to cylinder fuel trim (note: this same dyno runs Tony Stewart’s outlaw sprint car series engines)
  • 91 pump octane
  • 140* water temp
  • @ 700’ above sea level
Results:

- 431 ft/lbs torque @ 5,200 RPM

- 507 horsepower @ 6,700 RPM

- runs clean to 7,600 RPM (if the V belt will stay on)


We could perhaps see mid-500 hp if we: swapped to 101 octane racing fuel, lowered the coolant temp, and swapped to a single plane intake. The COBRA intake is what’s really holding back upper RPM power. Going to need to fit up to a 1” carb spacer (if I can fit it all under the hood).

Regardless, those are real world numbers for how I’ll be driving and using the car. I’m really stoked with 507 hp as that’s a lot of power in this old Mustang chassis and plenty enough to get into a ton of trouble! :devilish:

In the dyno it continued to throw the V belt after 7,000 RPM (one belt only from crank to alternator to water pump). My quest for an original looking ‘60s engine led me to use stock repro (Drake?) pulleys.

Might need to look into some good quality deep V groove billet pulleys. Perhaps MARCH as I’ve had succes with their pulleys before...any other pulley brand recommendations?

Here’s a clip of it running strong up to 7,600 and then it throws the v-belt:


But it idles nicely just below 900 RPM:


@patrickstapler thanks for confirming that distributor will clear the Monte Carlo bar. I’m running the same COBRA intake...let me see what my engine builder did to get it to clear and get back to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #206 (Edited)
@patrickstapler thanks re: engine comments.

Now that I think about it, with that engine, the power to weight ratio works out at an incredible 4.9 pounds per horsepower! That should help make it pretty quick! The power-to-weight ratio is right up there with a 2020 Shelby GT500 (5.4), Dodge Viper SRT (5.2), and Corvette Z06 (5.4). :)

Once I've finished the car, I'll put it on a scale to confirm, it should be ~2,500 - 2,600 pounds. The combination of a fiberglass hood, aluminum heads, plexi rear window, no bumpers, no side vents, aluminum wheels, minimal interior (aluminum Kirkey seats planned), no heater, no undercoating, no A/C, and 10 gallons of fuel I think make it an achievable target weight.

I'm going to need a sticky set of 15" rear tires (Mickey Thompson, Hoosier, AVON radials) to put all that power down...
 

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Discussion Starter #208 (Edited)
A bit slow on updates with both work and parts delays getting in the way of progress.

New rear end has arrived. It's a Quick Performance 9" rear axle that was narrowed 1/2" per side with thicker walled tubes, billet steel ends, fill and drain plugs added, Yukon Nodular center section with 3.70 gears, 31 spline axles, 3" long wheel studs, & 11.25" rear drums. :) :)

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Discussion Starter #209 (Edited)
And for those of you who may not have seen this in the other "Track" thread I'd started on the topic of unibody reinforcement, here are pics of the prototype set of ‘65-‘66 lower shock tower reinforcement plates I rec’d from @Steve S. who is getting ready to put a complete kit into production (FYI: he has produced the '67+ shock tower reinforcement kits for years).

Great fit right out of the box! Getting welded in this week...thanks @Steve S.!

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Discussion Starter #210 (Edited)
Engine Updates:
  • Switched the V belt to a different manufacturer. Since the belt is 15mm vs. 17mm, the narrower width allowed the belt to sit down deeper inside the pulleys and not get thrown off. Dyno tested with multiple pulls north of 7,600 RPM and the belt stayed put. All good and no need (yet) for higher end pulleys! :) :)

  • Decided to go mechanical fuel pump for simplicity and to stay with the vintage theme. Going to remove the wiring from the previous owner's electric fuel pump.

  • Picked up a MSD 6AL Black digital ignition with rev limiter (sorry @Turnall, no red MSD parts on this build!)
And @Turnall and @silverblueBP and @patrickstapler you will all be glad to know I've changed my mind and I'm deleting the heater and defroster (should be another 20# weight reduction). Going to install a driver side vent duct on the passenger side to close off or at least adjust the air flow in the winter.
 
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Discussion Starter #214
Post dyno runs and break-in the engine and valve covers have been painted as well as thermostat housing and mechanical fuel pump added.

The engine is done except for a carb spacer, braided fuel line (pump to hardline), drop down air cleaner base, & gauge sending units.

Just need to finish the engine bay prep so the engine+headers can be test fit.

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Post dyno runs and break-in the engine and valve covers have been painted as well as thermostat housing and mechanical fuel pump added.

The engine is done except for a carb spacer, braided fuel line (pump to hardline), drop down air cleaner base, & gauge sending units.

Just need to finish the engine bay prep so the engine+headers can be test fit.

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This looks great. Congrats on the dyno pass.
I even envy the fuel lines:whistle::whistle::whistle:...
 

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Discussion Starter #219 (Edited)
Very nice, but I expected to see R model valve covers.
Same here, I love those tall stacks...
@silverblueBP and @Russstang I’m already over halfway to having R Model style covers.

Look close...notice how both breathers are located on the FRONT of the correct (R Model style) stock OEM mid-1960s LOW height steel valve covers? (And I’m running roller rockers under those valve covers too with no cover spacers!)

The passenger side valve cover rear opening was welded up and the fill tube moved to the front of the valve cover.

Decided to wait and get the engine installed and then add the tall oil fill tubes to the top of valve covers.

I’m concerned about welding the tall tubes at this point. May decide to raise the engine up higher in the chassis (Ron Morris motor mounts) to provide more oil pan and header tube ground clearance. The engine sitting slightly higher may cause Monte Carlo bar clearance issues for tall oil fill tubes as everything is in close proximity.

This way I can add the tall tubes and tweak the tube angles slightly if needed to clear everything. Once the oil fill tubes are added, the valve covers will get powder coated the correct satin silver metallic color.

And I already have the correct Shelby R Model valve cover stickers too.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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I didn’t realize the Ron Morris mounts could be adjusted up and down. Mine are left to right and front to back, but no up and down. I could be wrong.
 
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