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Discussion Starter #161
@rpm the tow hook is one by Ford Racing for a later model Mustang and Summit sells it...has a separate red powder coated loop that bolts to the front of the base that I’m welding to the front right side frame extension.
 
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Discussion Starter #162
@rpm the tow hook will look like this when done...unless I paint the loop black to not call so much attention to it:

758591
 
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Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #167
@patrickstapler and @silverblueBP just worried the Import Tuner crowd has overdone the whole bright red front tow hook thing that I don't want to look like them...or maybe I just keep it tucked away inside the car and only install it for track days.

One of the Mustangs OVC completed painted it blue to match the Le Mans stripes. And on other ones they installed TWO front red tow hooks...which seems a bit redundant.

Since we are on the topic, I'm going with no rear bumper...and was planning to run the rear Cobra Automotive tow hook unless someone has (a less expensive) better option?
 

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Spammer Hammer
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Just get a high grade u-bolt that fits between the two holes. Run two flanged nuts onto the u-bolt. Insert it into the rear panel. Run two more flanged nuts onto the u-bolt to secure it. And paint it red to match the front one. You’re not doing it for show, but rather function.
 

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Discussion Starter #169 (Edited)
@patrickstapler exactly. While CA makes some nice stuff, $155 for a u-bolt is crazy.

My thought had been to fab up my own. Tried using a Mustang rear axle u-bolt but they aren't wide enough to properly fit diagonally across the bumper holes. Had just planned to add a couple of plates to reinforce that area.
 

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Spammer Hammer
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If the dimensions are right I doubt you would even need a flat plate. Large washers should suffice. That area of the structure is already backed by a bracket that welds to the panel and to the trunk floor. Pretty damn stout structure already.
 

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Discussion Starter #172
@patrickstapler good point about not needing plates to reinforce the mounting points and just use washers.

@silverblueBP do you have a close-up? What is that flat plate welded and drilled for the loop? And you made one for the passenger side too?

So in doing a bit of research now, may just go to UBOLTSDIRECT.com and spec my own 5/8" Grade 8 bolt length as it's fairly inexpensive. Plus they have a square u-bolt that mimics the CA u-bolt tow hook shape. Can't be more than $15 all in with the washer and nut hardware provided too...
 

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@silverblueBP do you have a close-up? What is that flat plate welded and drilled for the loop? And you made one for the passenger side too?
It’s 3/16” steel plate for both parts. The pass side plate just covers the bumper holes. I’ve tried to cover/fill every hole where fumes/fire might find its way back into the car.


Mark
 

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Spammer Hammer
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You might want to double check that diameter. The slots on my car are .540”. This is about right for a standard engineering tolerance for 1/2” bolt. The approximate distance center to center of the slots on my car is 4” which would equate to a 3 1/2” inside u-bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter #175
You might want to double check that diameter. The slots on my car are .540”. This is about right for a standard engineering tolerance for 1/2” bolt. The approximate distance center to center of the slots on my car is 4” which would equate to a 3 1/2” inside u-bolt.
Thanks @patrickstapler. Been a while since I measured it and for some reason I had 5" or 5.5" center to center in my head.

Was thinking 5/8" diameter bolt size to achieve a Grade 8 bolt rating, but I hadn't confirmed hole diameter so thanks for grabbing the measurement. The G8 starts in 5/8" size and has 3,225# capacity vs G5 only 2,000# capacity. Wanted higher capacity to use if needed to winch the car up on a trailer. In hindsight, a rolling (or god-forbid dragging) car isn't putting 2,000# of tension on that bolt...and I'd need 2 hooks to pull the car straight onto the trailer.

Maybe this is why the OVC car had two tow hooks on the front...to pull the car up onto a trailer. Perhaps I should run two rear hooks so I can winch the car onto a trailer (plus to @silverblueBP point) it would seal up the open rear holes (that I was going to plug with rubber grommets and silicone).

Will post back here the final parts and dimensions I use.
 

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Discussion Starter #178
@silverblueBP That was my thought too. But it seems that the suppliers who will custom bend u-bolts to your specs do not make Grade 8 u-bolts below the 5/8" rod diameter size. It's only Grade 5 up to 9/16" for u-bolts. If you know of a supplier somewhere that I haven't found yet please do share...
 

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Didn’t realize you were talking about U bolts. Buy some steel, make your own. Buy steel rod, bend and weld it to some plate. Lots of ways to getrdone.


Mark
 

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Discussion Starter #180
@silverblueBP I know I know... If it was a critical part perhaps I'd look into making it, like I did for the tube surround for the gas tank flange or what I will be doing for the upcoming Kirkey seat base with sliders,

But with everything else I'm juggling on this build, to go track down the steel and then spend the time to bend it...verses <$15 to buy a u-bolt and hardware (and I just pick a professionally bent round, square, or semi-round u-bolt shape) and have it dropped off on my doorstep, it's just not worth my time. Have to pick and choose my battles...
 
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