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'65 T Code Fastback - R Model inspired transformation

41K views 262 replies 29 participants last post by  Steveo77 
#1 · (Edited)
While my first post on VMF, not new to restorations or builds. In addition to multiple restorations over the years, I’ve also built an FFR Cobra that took 3rd place in the FFR Nationals. But my hope is re-working this car will be much easier...

This time I wanted something fun for the weekends in the same vein as the Cobra, but with a backseat so I can take my 3 sons out and hopefully turn them into gear heads too. After looking for months, I picked up a Wimbledon White 1965 Mustang Fastback. Planned use is mostly street driving in SoCal with some light track use at times.

It’s a quasi-survivor car. All original sheet metal tub with no major rot. Exterior repainted once it seems in late 80s.

More details:

EXTERIOR
  • Wimbledon White
  • Bright Red Interior (yuck)
ENGINE
  • 289 V8 engine, bored .030 over (sourced from ‘67 Cougar)...originally a straight six cylinder “T code” car
  • stock heads rebuilt with hardened seats
  • Edelbrock Performer 289 intake
  • Edelbrock Performer 600cfm carb (#1405), primary metering jets @ 0.098”, metering rods @ 0.075''x0.047”, manual choke
  • Edelbrock Performer cam (#2122) & lifters
  • Carter electric fuel pump
  • 1966 style V8 Motor Mounts
IGNITION
  • Pertronix Flamethrower billet distributor
  • Pertronix Flamethrower II coil
  • Ford Racing wires
  • NGK u-groove plugs
UNDERHOOD
  • Export brace
  • Curved monte carlo bar (to clear the above distributor)
  • New underhood wiring
  • 4 row radiator
  • overflow tank
EXHAUST
  • Hedmann long tube headers
  • Dynomax X-pipe
  • Spintech mufflers turned 90* down
TRANSMISSION & REAR END
  • '67 toploader 4-speed (sourced from ‘67 Cougar)
  • 8 inch V8 rear end, 3.25 ratio (sourced from ‘65-‘66 Mustang)
SUSPENSION
  • 620lb front coil springs on GT 5 lug V8 spindles
  • HiPo GT rear leaf springs with poly bushings
  • KYB shocks (KG4517 front, KG5517 rear)
  • Heavy duty shackles w/poly bushings
  • 1" front sway bar
  • 3/4" rear sway bar
  • American Racing 16" x7" polished torque thrust II's
  • rear lowering block 3/4” - 1”
BRAKES
  • ‘75+ Granada front disc brakes (#4069A / 70A calipers & #141086 rotors)
  • Standard V8 rear drums
  • Dual master cylinder (#11680)
  • Wilwood prop valve
INTERIOR
  • standard seating, carpets, door panels (all red color)
  • Lecarra Mk3 Supreme 15” mahogany wood & aluminum steering wheel w/ polished hub
  • 2 speed wipers & window washer option
  • early 2 speed heater switch
  • Autometer mechanical oil pressure and water temp gauges
  • Sunpro tach
  • AM/FM cassette, 4x6 door speakers w/factory grills, rear 6x9 speakers in custom panel; original panel not cut and also included with car
LIGHTING
  • Glass Delta headlights with H3 80/100 watt bulbs
  • High output headlight relay system
  • LED taillights with electric flasher unit
Plans are for some additional modifications to create a Shelby GT350 Tribute.

Likely a cross between a ‘65 GT350 (street) and the Competition version or “R model”).

Plan:

- convert entire interior to black (from current red and white)

- black carpet...while R Models have no carpet, my plan is to keep for heat and noise reduction purposes

- Torque Thrust wheels...15x7" front and rear with 215 front and 235 rear tires (rolled fenders)

- convert hood & front apron over to Shelby 350R model fiberglass parts

- remove front & rear bumpers

- route exhaust to exit at side

- rear window converted to vented Plexiglas 350R model version

- Shelby dash gauge pod

- replace side vents with aluminum blockoff panels

- upgrade to larger 22 gallon fuel tank

- ‘67 Shelby style roll bar

- vintage looking front head lights

- LeMans and GT350 style side stripes

- and much more...
 
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#4 · (Edited)
Photos of what I’m starting with...

778840


778841
 

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#5 ·
Whoa.....Mustang emblems are way...way off on both Front Fenders... Obviously noone bothered to reference a "Correct" car.... Car is nice otherwise though...

:eek:)

Tony K.
 
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#7 · (Edited)
Whoa.....Mustang emblems are way...way off on both Front Fenders... Obviously noone bothered to reference a "Correct" car.... Car is nice otherwise though...
Thanks Tony. Yes, like I said it's driver quality. It's a solid, rust free CA car. But judging by the amateur paint job not surprised they took some liberties on emblem placement.

Truth be told, the emblems could be upside down or even missing as the emblems are coming off. I'm not an "all original date coded parts" kind of guy. Never understood the fuss over spending a ton of extra money for an authentic, numbers matching, option specific car.

This why I went looking for a converted "T Code" car - a blank canvas that I can do as I wish.

For the most part, I'll be researching and building up to G.T. 350 R specs...
 
#6 · (Edited)
More photos...
 

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#9 ·
Change the curved MC bar to a straight one. Agree about the rear bar and panhard.
When you say Vintage Racing, are you using that term generically or are you planning on really vintage racing it?


Mark
 
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#15 · (Edited)
Thanks for the input and suggestions on the suspension. Keep offering those ideas up. I'm still new to these old Mustangs and have a lot to learn.

The newer ignition and distributor cap won't allow for a straight Monte Carlo bar, hence the curved one. Now that you mention it, simple physics there cant be anywhere near the rigidity as straight one...so better than nothing but not great.

As far as racing, I'd simply like to get it out on the track for hot laps as well as run some on-road rallies with it. I'm not expecting to be super competitive as I won't have the $$ for high end parts (billet cranks, etc) or the time to go to the track every weekend. etc etc.

The car really is a ten footer. In those pics it was prepped to sell. Up close you'll see quite a bit of paint imperfections. Open the trunk and it's 50+ year old paint and all the wear and tear that comes with it. Look underside and it's original except for suspension and exhaust. Engine bay is clean, but below the heads there's built up dirt and grease.

Maybe "patina" isn't the right word (haven't looked at that other thread but I guess it's clear coated surface rust or simulated rust).

In short, I won't be building a show piece. Unlike my Cobra, I'm not going to spend days trying to get perfect door panel gaps or 100% precise hood alignment or painting the car to achieve 36"+ of gloss depth.

It'll be primarily bolt-on and go have fun.
 
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#16 ·
So, I’m/we’re just trying to understand the use of your car before we indulge in spending your money [emoji16]

Am I correct then in saying, you want to open track/hpde and rally your car vs w2w vintage racing?

Btw, I think the car is awesome as is!


Mark
 
#21 ·
Answering Mark's question will be a tough one after today...
 

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#23 ·
Were there any R models with vent windows? I don’t think so. I may be wrong. Maybe I misread the original thread. Are you saying your car is currently what you believe to be a R model or are you transitioning it to a R model tribute? And please don’t say clone.
 
#24 · (Edited)
The ~30 true original R Models each have some amount of variation. But it's my understanding they all came with aluminum panels that covered the rear quarter vents. Smooth aerodynamics and least amount of weight is my guess.

Aesthetically from the exterior, the aluminum covers are what I'd like to do. But from the interior, that extra bit of visibility a quarter panel window would offer seems like the smarter choice.

My car is not an R Model nor was it ever... It was born a "T Code" but had its running gear later upgraded past that of a "K Code".

At this point I'd like to build it into a R Model tribute. It's even already white. But a nice shade of 60s blue with no Le Mans stripes is lingering in the back of my mind...and would probably put the Shelby purists minds at ease. Lol.
 
#25 · (Edited)
So I've stumbled across one of your prior posts, @Silverblue, in another thread. Think the answer to your question is "HPDE, open track, and rallies" and not "open-wheel racing". For now at least... ?

Hmmm, where to start. Some things I've learned over the years about track days and racing (vintage).

Read every club's rules before you start spending money!

Get as much seat time as you can. Have fast racers ride with you, but make sure they drive the same type of setup as you do. A FWD driver will be useless if you have a RWD car.

Stock rods (no matter what you do to them have a short shelf life before they start to "stretch". Stock crank will last all day at 6,000, but 7,000+ is going to kill it sooner or later.
Lighten everything that you can and still be safe.
Stich weld every metal joint.
Put in a good radiator and new hoses. Buy or drill holes in the t-stat to let air through.
Roller perches
Adj strut rods
Get rid of rubber parts, except the trans mount.
Good shocks are not an option, but a requirement.
Roll/cut fender lips before painting!
Removable steering wheel or suffer the consequences.
If you go cheap on parts, THEY WILL BREAK...soon.
Ask lots of questions.
Lose the coil spring covers.
Use hood pins.
Put catch cans on the valve covers and the rear axle. Rebuild the toploader with good parts from David Kee.
Use Joe Gibbs/Driven MTF in said toploader.
Put a good locker in the rear. I've been very happy with the Detroit Tru Trac.
Put heim joints on the stock toploader shifter rods.
Make/buy a brace that mounts to the brake MC/firewall that goes to the shock tower.
Put the biggest brakes on that the rules allow. Run cooling ducts to them and use race pads/shoes and expensive DOT 4 fluid.
Switch to braided brake lines.
If you use regular roller rockers, just know that one day you'll upgrade to shaft rockers. Don't doubt me <img src="http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/images/smilies/smile.gif" border="0" alt="" title="smile" class="inlineimg" />
Buy a trailer cause your car WILL break down at the track.
Get over having "pretty" paint. It's gonna get peppered all to hell.
You're not going to believe how fast you'll go through tires.
6pt or more cage and all the safety gear you can muster. Having your head pop off your neck or burning up is a terrible way to die.
Proper harness, 5-6pt camlocks are not that expensive.
A good seat that holds you in place and is properly attached to the rear main hoop.
Fire ext is a minimum, a system is better.
A coolshirt setup will make the day a lot more enjoyable.

You WILL have more fun and comradery than you can possibly imagine!
 
#27 ·
I strongly suggest you buy and install a extra capacity , baffled /gated oil pan. This will save you hundreds of dollars in rear tire replacement ( when you run over the crankshaft) LOL. Our local ( to you too) track Willow Springs (or Fontana) can easily allow G forces that WILL starve the oil pick up and tear up the rods and crank. R Models had these as well as external engine oil coolers when delivered. Stay away from a cheap one with angled sides , they are not adequate in a cornering situation like turn 2 at Willow.
Ditch the 8" rear too. Lack of gear ratios / limited slip units and small bearings ( in the diff) make it less desirable/reliable. Look to rear discs / 2-1/2" wide drums as brake fade WILL be an issue otherwise. Add a driveshaft look too. It's all about your safety.
American Racing does have an 8" wheel with more inside offset than their 8-1/2 wide torque thrust, It leaves the outside of the tire in the same place as the 7" wheel does.
Plexiglass door windows are a PIA to install for sure. '66 quarter windows run a close second. that's why R Models had the aluminum covers ( plus the weight savings)
Just this old guy's attempt to help you have a better experience.
 
#28 ·
Since there’s no W2W racing, the options are wide open for what to do with the car. You could use beefed up stock parts or go hog wild with a 4 link rear and front coilovers! Shaun at SorT and John at ORP would be happy to help you make the most of your dollars.

You could go with a wheel size that will give you a lot more options of track tires. 16-18” wheels.

Go with a stroked motor so you’ll have lots of power at lower RPM’s so it will live long.

This part you may not like to hear. Forget hauling anyone in the back seat and put in a 4 pt bar at the very least or a 6-8 pt at the best. Fixed driver seat and a good 5-6 pt harness.

Things like SFI flywheels, lightweight clutch, HD driveshaft with safety hoops, big vented disc brakes, race pads/shoes, air ducts to cool brakes, quick release steering wheel, moving the battery over the pass rear with a main cutoff, catch cans for all fluids that vent to the atmosphere, cool shirt system, good helmet with a head and neck restraint, dash lights to alert you to high water temps and low oil pressure....

So many things to consider once you start pounding on these cars!


Mark
 
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#29 · (Edited)
Thanks Mark and GT350HR. I'm going to revise my list above and start prioritizing.

My goal (for street) is an authentic mid-60s look - so 15" Torque Thrust Ds or Originals are the wheel for me. Can't get past the non-authentic look of 16s for regular use...and I don't want any of the Shelby 10 spokes or Cragars.

Also, coming from a Cobra with Hallibrand (Trigo) knockoffs, I want as deep of a rear wheel as possible.

Definitely rolling the front and rear fender lips to achieve slightly larger tire sizes too. I'm running 225s all around now with no fender mods. Plenty of metal to roll up.

Goal will be:
  • 235s front on 15x7s
  • 245s rear on 15x7, 15x8 or 8.5

I'm researching other threads here for wheel backspacing info to see what my options are beyond the standard 'we know 4.25” BS works on stock setups for everyone with 225s on all corners'.

Later down the line I may upgrade to a 9" rear end and a slightly narrowed rear axle would net me additional wheel width (and depth). But I'm limited by GT spring placement and OEM inner wheel wells (I'm not tubbing the car...but a few well placed BFG hammer taps if needed would be ok).
 
#30 · (Edited)
Won’t be doing anything but street driving and HPDE hot laps for the foreseeable future.

So with that in mind I’ll hold off for now on the more difficult (and expensive) mechanical upgrades for track use.

But modifications are underway...

Pulled the front end off the car so I could order and install a Shelby 350 R front valence. While NPD is a short drive away, I’m leaning to a Shelby Parts & Restoration valence panel. Anyone care to comment on fiberglass quality from these 2 sources?

Also bought a set of Torque Thrust Original wheels size 15x7” and 15x8.5” @ 3.75” BS and plan to run 215/60 tires front and 235/60 tires rear. Will be rolling the fender lips for tire clearance.

Last photo is what a 15x8.5” with 3.75” backspace looks like on the back of a ‘65! Didn’t think it would fit but tried it just in case the rear end was from something besides a Mustang. Nice having NPD close by to try stuff like this...

As I was fairly underwhelmed with the car’s existing lighting improvements, I swapped to a pair of glass housing Lucas Tri-Bar headlight replicas and am now running 80/100 watt bulbs (on upgraded wiring and relays). Pleased with the light output now...but still considering adding a pair of driving lights behind the grille.
 

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#31 ·
Won’t be doing anything but street driving and HPDE hot laps for the foreseeable future.

So with that in mind I’ll hold off for now on the more difficult (and expensive) mechanical upgrades for track use.

But modifications are underway...

Pulled the front end off the car so I could order and install a Shelby 350 R front valence. While NPD is a short drive away, I’m leaning to a Shelby Parts & Restoration valence panel. Anyone care to comment on fiberglass quality from these 2 sources?

Also bought a set of Torque Thrust Original wheels size 15x7” @ 3.25” BS and plan to run 215/60 tires front and 235/60 tires rear. Will be rolling the fender lips for tire clearance.

When I’m ready to swap in a Ford 9” rear end, I’ll likely have it narrowed and go with a pair of 15x8.5” wheels with 245-255 width tires.

Last photo is what a 15x8.5 looks like on the back of a ‘65! Didn’t think it would fit but tried it just in case the rear end was from something besides a Mustang or Cougar. Nice having NPD close by to try stuff like this...

As I was fairly underwhelmed with the car’s existing lighting improvements, I swapped to a pair of glass housing Lucas Tri-Bar headlight replicas and am now running 80/100 watt bulbs (on upgraded wiring and relays). Pleased with the light output now...but am devising a way to add a pair of driving lights behind the grille.
Just checking in to see if you’ve made any progress.
 
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#32 ·
So you have been working on the build for a while, just wondering if you still think modifying the Mustang is easier than building the FFR Cobra? All I can say is that I am thankful that I built my FFR first, a great stepping stone to my Mustang build. Looking back at building the FFR, I remember the frustration of fitting parts multiple times, that was nothing in hindsight. Now I really jumped into the deep end of the pool with my Mustang with TCP suspension, Coyote, and 6R80 AT, but so many things have had to be "adjusted" to fit or I needed custom parts in order to get stuff to fit. I am building a Boss 302 Trans Am tribute 1970 Mustang. I am looking forward to seeing your GT350R tribute when done.
 
#33 · (Edited)
I’ve made a little progress...but not moving anywhere near the pace I’d prefer due to all kinds of other things getting in the way.

But the 15” TorqueThrusts are fitted with 215 front and 235 rear tires.

Fitted the R front valance and a better poly-resin / fiberglass hood (the 2nd of 2 hoods fitted).

778844


778845


778846
 

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