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I have read many of the threads but wanted to put my o reheating situation on here.
In short:
  • been running for some months up and down street for 5 mins or so with no overheating at all
  • Yesterday, took her for 20 min jog...did not overheat until I got back. Noticed heater hose to intake nipple was to big(dia) and lose on nipple. Tighened as best I could. Flushed out radiator through lower drain and heater hoses with garden hose. Added 1 gal of antifreeze.
  • Today, took for 30 run, very few stops...did same thing. Turned on heater controls full. Reached destination, heater hose to I take came off water all over, steam everywhere, never reached H on guage.
  • allowed veh to cool, attached and tightened heater hose, filled with water, went on my way.
  • not half way back overheated (air pocket?) Loosened cap water and steam all over.
  • fam member brought jugs of water, eng cool. Topped off, left cap lose...didn't make it 5 miles and was getting hot again. Stopped, steam everywhere.
  • repeated last step, left and made it last 10 miles, parked in garage. Closed garage door...frustrated.
The car- 65 mustang w 69 302 block and original 289 heads. Everything on it is new. Headers with flex fan, 289 Edelbrock performer intake, 1405 Carb, C4, Petronix electronics, no shroud, fan is 4"? From stock 20" radiator. The thermostat is new...may check boil anyway. Going to flush again...may pressure test. Just a bit confused. I'm feeling it is a water flow problem and not an airflow problem. I'm also thinking that I must locate the drain plugs in the head and try to flush as well.

im thinking I should be able to remove heater hose, fill as in flushing...crank eng and water should be forced out a water pump orifice. This should price that is working, right? Any suggestions.
 

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Do you have any confidence that your temp gauge is reliable? No shroud and 4" between fan and radiator aren't doing you any favors.
 
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Change your thermostat for starters. An IR or contact thermometer to check your gauge. As mentioned a shroud will help a lot. If you have a fan clutch that needs to be checked as well, just spin it with the engine off to make sure there is a good amount of resistance.
 

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You definitely need to get a shroud and move the fan closer to the radiator. A 4" gap with no shroud really isn't going to move anywhere near as much air through the radiator as you want.
 

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Are your issues following idling at the light? Temps? Does the temp normalize as you reach open roads? You should replace your over sized hoses. Am assuming you are getting water flow from your water pump, pass your thermostat and you are seeing flow & engine heat into and the radiator. Can you see adequate water flow at radiator after thermostat opens with radiator cap off. I think you implied you wanted to test your water flow from the water pump.
 

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Gand,

you mentioned everything being new except the radiator.
Did you have any over heating issues prior to freshening up your motor?
Was any block work done?
A drive up and down the street e very month or so is not much of an indicator to me, to short a jount to test the cooling system. As stated shroud shoul$ be considered and fan to water pump spacer added, 4” space too much. An over flow tank is not required nor stock but a good idea. Will keep you from having to top off the system so often. Sounds like you have a skinny stock radiator correct?

Then I what start with the easy stuff,

1 -inspect and properly tighten all hose connections and fan belt - water pump to crank.
2 -replace theromstat with a good quality unit, be sure it has a steam release hole in it.
One can be drilled if need be.
3 -Pressure test your system, auto parts stores rent these kits, to ensure your head gaskets are not compromised and leaking combustion gases into your H20 system. Listen for any ”hissing” sounds coming from your valve cover areas. Inspect all other cooling system connections for leaks As well as your freeze plugs.
4 -fire up motor with radiator cap off, wait for system to get up to operating temp and observe at radiator water flow. If good flow is observed, top off system, tighten radiator cap and go for a ride to test. Should OH issues persist, Your radiator or water pump could have issues or a water passage in your block is clogged. Good flow at idle does not always equate to good enough flow at speed.
5 - at this point I would want to flush the system as completely as possible.
I remove the thermostat for these. With the top radiator hose removed from the thermostat, cut the foot off one of my wife’s nylons, slide the ankle section over the T-housing, toe end into the radiator hose and tighten. A cheap flush filter, but if you must you can buy an inline filter and spice it into your top radiator hose as well. I then pour two cups of washing soda and drive for 50 miles.
Then remove both block water passage plugs, once block is drained then remove the bottom radiator hose, then the top hose, you will not believe all the junk the filter has collected. Other on the site have suggested draining your system and filling it up completely with either white vinegar or a citric acid solution and just letting it sit overnight. I have not ever done that, but may be helpful if your fam members are not at the ready to rescue you again if you opt for the 50 mile ride.
Either way then flush fresh water through the radiator and then the block. Replace thermostat, reconnectand tighten all hose connections and block plugs.
6 -If still an over heating issue I would look to replace both the radiator and water pump.

sorry for the run on here, was wanting to get you my .02 but spent a buck trying to cover all the bases I could think of.

good luck!,

I pour two cups of washing soda into the radiator and run 50 miles or so then open the block plugs to drain it first
 

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I would suggest checking to make sure that the head gaskets are on correctly. That is one thing that can cause overheating while driving. If you were only taking short trips (5mins) you may not have given the engine time to fully heat up and subsequently overheat. Now that you are trying longer trips you are reaching that point. Also could be that a head is warped and allowing exhaust gasses to escape into your coolant. This will for sure overheat your system. I experienced that and no matter what I tried I couldn't keep my car from overheating at idle and it would even start to run hot while cruising after a long time. I have since changed out my heads and now I have no issues.
 

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I have read many of the threads but wanted to put my o reheating situation on here.
In short:
  • been running for some months up and down street for 5 mins or so with no overheating at all. You basically were not fully heating the engine.
  • Yesterday, took her for 20 min jog...did not overheat until I got back. Noticed heater hose to intake nipple was too big (diameter) and loose on nipple. The heater hose is trashed, but this is not related to any overheating. Replace the hoses. Tighened as best I could. Flushed out radiator through lower drain and heater hoses with garden hose. Added 1 gal of antifreeze. When filling the radiator, coolant should be 1" below the cap opening, engine cold.
  • Today, took for 30 run, very few stops...did same thing. Turned on heater controls full. Reached destination, heater hose to intake came off water all over, steam everywhere, never reached H on guage. Yes, the heater hose, and probably the clamp, are trashed, and need to be replaced. I'd like to see the hose fitting, too, it should be impossible for a hose to just slip off.
  • allowed vehicle to cool, attached and tightened heater hose, filled with water, went on my way.
  • not half way back overheated (air pocket?) Loosened cap water and steam all over. If it is overfilled, it will always overflow. Loosening the cap while hot lowers coolant pressure, which from high school we know lowers the boiling point, instantly allowing the coolant to boil. It is extremely dangerous to loosen the cap on a hot engine.
  • family member brought jugs of water, eng cool. Topped off, left cap lose...didn't make it 5 miles and was getting hot again. Stopped, steam everywhere. Yes, a loose cap will do this, every time.
  • repeated last step, left and made it last 10 miles, parked in garage. Closed garage door...frustrated.
OK, fill the engine with proper 50/50 coolant mix, top to 1" below the inside of the cap ring, properly tighten the cap, and try again. If some coolant comes out the overflow hose onto the ground, this is normal on the first few trips. If you have no overflow hose, this is another part of your problem.
 

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I have read many of the threads but wanted to put my o reheating situation on here.
In short:
  • been running for some months up and down street for 5 mins or so with no overheating at all. You basically were not fully heating the engine.
  • Yesterday, took her for 20 min jog...did not overheat until I got back. Noticed heater hose to intake nipple was too big (diameter) and loose on nipple. The heater hose is trashed, but this is not related to any overheating. Replace the hoses. Tighened as best I could. Flushed out radiator through lower drain and heater hoses with garden hose. Added 1 gal of antifreeze. When filling the radiator, coolant should be 1" below the cap opening, engine cold.
  • Today, took for 30 run, very few stops...did same thing. Turned on heater controls full. Reached destination, heater hose to intake came off water all over, steam everywhere, never reached H on guage. Yes, the heater hose, and probably the clamp, are trashed, and need to be replaced. I'd like to see the hose fitting, too, it should be impossible for a hose to just slip off.
  • allowed vehicle to cool, attached and tightened heater hose, filled with water, went on my way.
  • not half way back overheated (air pocket?) Loosened cap water and steam all over. If it is overfilled, it will always overflow. Loosening the cap while hot lowers coolant pressure, which from high school we know lowers the boiling point, instantly allowing the coolant to boil. It is extremely dangerous to loosen the cap on a hot engine.
  • family member brought jugs of water, eng cool. Topped off, left cap lose...didn't make it 5 miles and was getting hot again. Stopped, steam everywhere. Yes, a loose cap will do this, every time.
  • repeated last step, left and made it last 10 miles, parked in garage. Closed garage door...frustrated.
OK, fill the engine with proper 50/50 coolant mix, top to 1" below the inside of the cap ring, properly tighten the cap, and try again. If some coolant comes out the overflow hose onto the ground, this is normal on the first few trips. If you have no overflow hose, this is another part of your problem.
^ ^ ^ This.

Plus... "I'm also thinking that I must locate the drain plugs in the head and try to flush as well. ". You won't find them as there ARE no drain plugs in the heads. There is one at the right forward side and one at the left rearward side of the block. Most likely not an issue, anyway. Start with replacing the bad hoses and follow 22GT's advice on fill.
 

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if the engine was out for cleaning /rebuilding and was "hot tanked" It's possible rust and junk has started to plug up the radiator ,I highly suggest an upper hose filter (many on the market I have a Gano but your choice) if the radiator is plugged I like the Champion #340
You fan at 4" is too far away
 

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I too would like to know you have checked the head gasket orientation first. easy to visually verify. Then I would like to see some photos of the fan blades and the gaps you have. Sometimes it is the simplest of things that cause problems. Yes, you could have a clogged radiator or blockage in the engine, but my own experience to stop the temp creeping up in stop and go traffic was putting the stock fan back on....after 2 flushes, after a 60 over rebuild, Edelbrock w.p., 2 good/correct thermostats, 2 coolant flushes, gano filter, water wetter snake oil, adjusting timing way back, big block 69 radiator in a 66 with a 69 shroud and aftermarket 5 blade aluminum fan, nice overflow bottle, external trans cooler, arrrggggh, temp at 180 while driving...stop and go lines in ocean city MD and it would creep up over 220...scarry, not cool....then, put the 4 blade hipo fan back on it when the bigger better fan I bought to try out from summit was just a 1/8 inch too big to clear the bottom shroud and trans lines-(rats rats rats...oh that's right, ron morriss lowered motor mounts chasing a different problem) all apart now, might as well run that hipo fan on the wall...I went to o.c. and guess what...No temperature creep past 190.....the pos nice looking fan I had put on after the rebuild/rotisserie restoration just wasn't pulling enough air through to cool it, straight from the beginning. Your issues may be different, but my money from your description it is the fan depth, possibly the fan, and no shroud. By the way, where are you located? Add it to your avatar, a major pet peeve of mine and many others! best of luck, share how it turns out!!!!
 

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22GT picked up on you mentioning "topped it off", and that's what caught my eye. Just because it's overflowing doesn't mean it's overheating. The coolant expands when it heats up. If the radiator is filled all the way, there's nowhere for the coolant to go when it expands except out the overflow. The "L-H" gauge on your dash doesn't tell you much about actual engine temp. You need something with numbers.
 

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I would suggest checking to make sure that the head gaskets are on correctly. That is one thing that can cause overheating while driving. If you were only taking short trips (5mins) you may not have given the engine time to fully heat up and subsequently overheat. Now that you are trying longer trips you are reaching that point. Also could be that a head is warped and allowing exhaust gasses to escape into your coolant. This will for sure overheat your system. I experienced that and no matter what I tried I couldn't keep my car from overheating at idle and it would even start to run hot while cruising after a long time. I have since changed out my heads and now I have no issues.
Check your lower radiator hose after it gets hot. If it feels as hard as a rock that's an indicator that there is a restriction could be a head gasket being not installed correctly also causing your cooling system to be pressurized with exhaust gas, There is a tab on most SBF head gaskets that indicated that should be at the front to the block. I don't remember if you can see the tab once the head is installed.
 

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I seem to remember an issue about water pumps having the incorrect impeller for standard belts vs. serpentine belts. The serpentine belt turns the pump in the opposite direction and the water volume just isn't high enough. Someone else will have to supply the particulars.
 
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